Lower ball joint PMS

OK, that makes sense.
In other words, non OEM stuff is like most other crap these days; disposable!
Took a couple pics of the existing LBJs, yeah those calipers and struts look crusty but they work, a fix for another time...


Am I crazy or are there no cotter pins on those castle nuts?
What in the wild wild world of sports?

Also the OEM parts I've priced only come with new castle nut and cotter pin. Not the 4 mounting bolts per LBJ.
Are the original mounting bolts generally re-usable?
If not, where can these be found?

 

my rig has the passenger side at close to 170k miles since I had them changed at about 180k from the original factory
Most holes and roached bridge decks I hit at 70moh are on the driver side... It never fails the holes or patches are over there lol
I am now a couple inches above stock height so Definitely I must be mindful of the extra pressures on them!!

The driver side was at 150k before the wheel bearing completely roached out and wobbled that cv and the dealershop inspection was the one that spotted it after I was having some weird wonky braking up front... Rode those wonky brakes for almost 2000 miles... I don't know if the LBJ was still good after the bearing collapse, they gave me the part back so I could inspect it when I get to it
Very strange things go on these days!!
More issues more problems, it never ends!

 

It's better to consider the LBJs as consumables like engine oil and tires rather than a something which should last the life of the vehicle. Sure, you could probably run the same engine oil for 100k, but one day the motor will seize.

 

You can get OEM LBJs on those special genuine OEM parts dealershop discount days
The BFCM sale last year clocked in at 98$ each no extra shipping to replace the one I had to replace for safety (roached bearing)

But! If you have not the ability, time whatever to wrench them yerself there are pro shops that frown and refuse you to use your brought to n genuine OEM parts... Then the bill can reach nearly 1000$ for 2 LBJ replacement some places. Thankfully my YOTA dealer lets me bring in parts As Long As They Are genuine OEM from an authorized OEM dealershop. No Amazon eBay or 2nd hand they will not use those. But that is about all this dealershop is good for.
I needed a new rack that was leaking and wanted to know approximately how much to put it on and they wanted 180$ to look at it and tell me it's leaking when I know it's leaking

 

These do look Nice!
I will look into them, thanks for the info

https://youtu.be/T1R3R0F3W68?si=-NcUHz0vkE5Qpr7b

 

Do not reuse the 4 mounting bolts. Replace with new ones.

Not to be controversial, because there are many opinions on here about lower ball joint bolts, but here is what I use.

https://www.mcmaster.com/95735A635/

Torque them to 59 ft.lbs. and use blue locktite. Do not use the little rubber shields.

 

My local Toyota stealership quoted 1526 plus tax today. Uh.. nope!

 

One Might?? Have a cotter key pin, other one does not
And that is dangerous, those castle nuts can work themselves loose off the torque spec

 

Wow!!
Their rate must be over 200$ an hour
Get paid like a King

 

Again.

If OEM lower ball joints are considered expensive, generally speaking, then a 20-29 year old vehicle is not in the cards for them

 

Or any age vehicle for that matter. New shit costs just as much if not more to maintain, especially considering how many components are computer based now-a-days.

My wife drives an 2020 XC60 and while it's been pretty reliable, if we didn't have the warranty on it, we'd dump it in a heartbeat. It just had a 75k service and it was like $3k. And they missed a bunch of things like a broken engine mount, which I noticed right away when I had to fill up the coolant, which they also missed. My 1st gen is far cheaper to maintain, not to mention the registration and insurance costs.

 

New vehicle will be covered under warranty, especially if leasing.

Point being, $200 on parts that will run you at the very least 100k miles is a cheap investment.

That's about $20/10,000 miles which equates to $20/month...less really cause new OEM ball joints would run you longer than 100,000 miles.

 

They are definitely not as pricey as a new crankshaft pulley or flywheel! Both of which are over 800$ each at full MSRP
Sure hope neither of those 2 items need to be replaced again!

 

I just spotted your LBJs do not look like mine
You have a spacer like looking cup that I do not
Is it for the tacos with 16" wheels? I have 15s
Perhaps those with a spacer are not as long lasting as those LBJs without that?

 

Not a spacer- just a rubber dust shield. Can be installed with or without them.

 

Yeah, IMO you have to look at things differently these days. Old school way of thinking was, if the repair cost more than the "book value" of the vehicle (or anything for that matter) it was time to consider putting it to rest and getting new. These days, new stuff is out of this world expensive and to top it off its mostly disposable junk. My new mind set is, if I can get parts for it, fix it. Especially if its more than 10-15 years old because even that stuff is made better. Don't get me started on appliances and such

I'm trying to look at the newly acquired 22 year old TACO in the same way. Yeah its not perfect, yeah its costing a bit to get it up to some level of reliability and safety but with new ones 40k plus, barring total frame disintegration or god forbid major collision, how can you go wrong?

 

Cool, those bolts are pretty cheap.
Why not use the rubber shields?

 

The flanged head biots do not use a washer. The boots require a bolt with a washer which your original bolts have.

 

Oh, it stands for “preventative maintenance schedule.”

thought this thread was about lower ball joints raging out.

 

Well, sort of