Lower ball joint PMS

does This look safe?

 

nope unless its using Bluetooth cotter pin

 

that is hand-me-the-F-quality-job-done-right from ASE certified Firestone techs when i needed emergency CV axle replacement from a severe boot rip
it took me awhile to fix their FckUp after i got back home to inspect
the castle nut they failed to re-cotter key on the driver side actually walked back the proper torque by several inch turn of my torque wrench after picking up new pins

 

cant trust anyone but yourself these days
some of these certifications wouldn't buy you a cup of coffee

 

I Know!
but dammit it takes a huge outlay of cash to get the proper equipment to confidently do some of these tasks!

 

that's for sure and TBH sometimes I just don't have the skills I wish I did, e.g. welding

 

I am hoping to get started on the LBJ replacement today.
Looking at the bushings on the outer Tie Rod Ends, I'm not getting a good feeling about reusing them.
Understanding replacing those will require a front end alignment afterwards, are there strong recommendations about which brand to use or can I get these off the self at the local auto parts store?
FYR, truck is not lifted or modified in that way at all.
no intentions of doing true off-road use.
thank you!

 

I've had good luck with 555 brand as well as Mevotech, which are "packaged" as AC Delco at my local parts store or online (left 45A0832 and a right 45A0833). No need to go with OEM for the OTREs IMO.

You'll definitely need an alignment if you're replacing the OTREs

​

 

v

Thanks, I will inspect the ones I remove to do the LBJs. Even OEM parts aren't that costly - https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotao...s/toyota-steering-tie-rod-end-left-4504739175 , https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotao.../toyota-steering-tie-rod-end-right-4504639295.

I got the ball joints from this dealer, delivered quickly!

Would like to avoid never ending repair road, next it'll be inner tie rods, steering rack , control arms etc etc.

 

If you're going to do the ITREs, you should just do the rack, which comes with new ITREs for not a lot more money. (And, only go OEM on the rack, even though it's pricey. The others tend to fail quickly.)

 

Given the time I had, I only got the right side done yesterday. Yep, outer tie rod bushing is spent on that side. Assuming the driver side is as well just went ahead and ordered both from the above.
I have no reason to think the inner ones are in need of replacing yet...
Thanks for the info.

 

Struggled to get the left tie rod off today but was finally able.
Sadly the pitman arm puller that worked so well on the right side, just wouldn't fit on the left due to different bend in the TRE there.
Using a tuning fork the dang bolt broke away from the socket so, no chance of using that again even if you wanted to.
BTW, the banging with a BAH was not going to work, must have whacked the knuckle 50 times!
With some ingenuity, some prayers and a little luck, its off.
Now she's up on jack stands waiting for the 2 new TREs to be delivered.
Anyway, 2 new LBJs in!
Momma told me there'd be days like this

 

the right side LBJ on my rig is pushing it near 165k miles since it was replaced with new OEM
perhaps i should look into seeing if i am able to replace that side in the driveway before the winter cometh
or could it be waited out until nearer to 200k
that side wheel bearing is still original in that knuckle and i do not know its condition if it is still 0k or not 0k with over 354k miles onit

 

Wow 354K, that's great!
I'd assume you'd have symptoms of a bad wheel bearing.
If you have the means to replace the right side, might want to do that.
In retrospect, I think it may be advisable to plan on replacing TREs when servicing the ball joints on a vehicle that never had them done before.
This way, they can both be done while the patient is in surgery
Those on my truck were shot, don't think they were ever replaced (nor the LBJs) at 274K

 

truck recently got an all new rack (13k miles ago) with new TREs
original rack started leaking a bit over 300k miles and i nursed it along for over 35k miles topping off the ps fluid frequently
if macho strength is needed to pop the lbj joints loose with the puller the truck will need to be elevated high enough to stand underneath for proper safe leverage
the left driver side wheel bearing has failed and replaced 3x so far...

 

I did mine in the driveway, had to use the floor jack at highest lift to get under comfortably and have room for an impact wrench to get the ball joint castle nut off.
After that, getting the LBJ out with a pitman arm puller was pretty easy, used a breaker bar and 3/4 in socket for that.