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Lower Control Arm Bolts Picture & Part Numbers

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by DoginTaco, Sep 12, 2018.

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  1. Dec 30, 2018 at 5:12 PM
    #21
    Drainbung

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    Drainbung Somedays you are the show....

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    Don't get rid of those, you can replace the bushings and LBJ's
     
    Drainbung, Dec 30, 2018
    #21
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  2. Dec 31, 2018 at 5:59 AM
    #22
    weldo

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    weldo Well-Known Member

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    yea, the arms look to be in decent shape.

    Anyone that's replaced the lower ball joints, what's the best way to get the snap ring off of the ball joint? It's a super heavy snap ring and I don't think the typical snap ring pliers will touch it. You just work it off with some flat screw drivers?
     
    weldo, Dec 31, 2018
    #22
  3. Dec 31, 2018 at 6:01 AM
    #23
    Unchained 5150

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    Unchained 5150 Rick

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    Unchained 5150, Dec 31, 2018
    #23
  4. Dec 31, 2018 at 6:06 AM
    #24
    EatSleepTacos

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    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I don’t remember the method but I remember it not being difficult. I think we just used a flat head screwdriver.
     
    EatSleepTacos, Dec 31, 2018
    #24
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  5. Dec 31, 2018 at 6:07 AM
    #25
    weldo

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    weldo Well-Known Member

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    Right on.
     
    weldo, Dec 31, 2018
    #25
  6. Dec 31, 2018 at 1:47 PM
    #26
    BadDNA

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    BadDNA Uh, huh huh... Member

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    Yup, couple of screwdrivers and some prying.
     
    BadDNA, Dec 31, 2018
    #26
  7. Dec 31, 2018 at 2:13 PM
    #27
    Drainbung

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    Drainbung Somedays you are the show....

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    Your beater flat blade screwdriver and a wee hammer will tap them off. I think I pinned one side of it with a clamp to get it started and it comes right off.
     
    Drainbung, Dec 31, 2018
    #27
    weldo likes this.
  8. Jan 3, 2019 at 10:00 AM
    #28
    Tectonic

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    Tectonic Well-Known Member

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    I keep reading complaints about how expensive the OEM camber bolt set is, so assume they not only have a seized sleeve (#48409-60020) but also the bolt inside (90119-A0166?)? I think I can remove everything except possibly the sleeve...
     
    Tectonic, Jan 3, 2019
    #28
  9. Jan 3, 2019 at 2:50 PM
    #29
    weldo

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    weldo Well-Known Member

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    Nice tip!
     
    weldo, Jan 3, 2019
    #29
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  10. Jan 30, 2019 at 6:26 AM
    #30
    wincewang

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    wincewang New Member

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    Are there any markings or serial numbers identifying these as Toyota OEM LCA? I am looking at buying a second hand set but they look very similar to Moog.
     
    wincewang, Jan 30, 2019
    #30
  11. Feb 11, 2021 at 8:50 PM
    #31
    20somethingwidataco

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    20somethingwidataco Yes, my avatar is a real car.

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    God damn, 150 bucks for new hardware plus the cost of the lca's themselves? Are you sure you need two of everything? I mean it makes sense but gat damn
     
    20somethingwidataco, Feb 11, 2021
    #31
  12. Feb 11, 2021 at 8:53 PM
    #32
    6 gearT444E

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    A little anti seize goes a long way. In theory, none of these parts should ever have to be replaced, other than LCA bushings. Most uninitiated people just buy a whole new LCA rather than press out the bushings, but I am cheap and resourceful so I DIY.
     
    6 gearT444E, Feb 11, 2021
    #32
    970btu and 20somethingwidataco[QUOTED] like this.
  13. Oct 28, 2022 at 8:58 AM
    #33
    bryanh69

    #33
    bryanh69 Well-Known Member

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    Are the assemblies with the grease nipple on them worth it? ACDelco makes a kit that seems like a decent idea...but it isn't the cheapest thing in the world.

    upload_2022-10-28_11-58-19.jpg
     
    bryanh69, Oct 28, 2022
    #33
  14. Oct 28, 2022 at 9:01 AM
    #34
    EatSleepTacos

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    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    No, for a couple of reasons. Rubber bonded bushings don't need grease and the bolts will be inherently weaker due to being partially hollow for the grease channel.
     
    EatSleepTacos, Oct 28, 2022
    #34
  15. Oct 28, 2022 at 9:03 AM
    #35
    bryanh69

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    bryanh69 Well-Known Member

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    Makes sense. Thanks for the quick answer.

    I also just saw that they are aluminum. Not for nothing but I really don't want aluminum bolting that together.
     
    bryanh69, Oct 28, 2022
    #35
  16. Oct 28, 2022 at 9:05 AM
    #36
    EatSleepTacos

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    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I completely agree. I wouldn't want an aluminum bolt holding anything remotely vital together, let alone a critical suspension component.
     
    EatSleepTacos, Oct 28, 2022
    #36
  17. Nov 1, 2022 at 6:29 AM
    #37
    SR-71A

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    Im betting thats a typo. No way they would make something like that out of Al, and it looks like coated steel in the pics. But I do agree with the above, OEM is best in this application
     
    SR-71A, Nov 1, 2022
    #37
  18. Nov 1, 2022 at 6:42 AM
    #38
    3JOH22A

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    3JOH22A トヨタ純正男娼

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    These are crap. The D-shaped holes in the cam washers round out. Same parts also packaged as
    $34 Moog K100128 Alignment Caster/Camber Kit for Toyota Tacoma
    Moog K100128, Mevotech MS86043, and other brands: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lem-solver-caster-camber-cam-bolt-kit.317057/

    If you go off-road, it's better to get cam eliminators from Bison, Poly Performance, or 333 Fabrication, but IMO they need to be used in conjunction with upper control arms with fine camber adjustment.
     
    3JOH22A, Nov 1, 2022
    #38
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  19. Nov 1, 2022 at 9:30 AM
    #39
    Naveronski

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    Naveronski Well-Known Member

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    Agree. I have the Bison, but their limited adjustment is also a hinderance when trying to get a good alignment.
     
    Naveronski, Nov 1, 2022
    #39
  20. Nov 1, 2022 at 11:24 AM
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    SR-71A

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