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Lower control arm bolts

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by deckeda, Nov 9, 2015.

  1. Nov 9, 2015 at 10:00 AM
    #1
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My suspension install is stalled. Shouldn't have used the 3/8" torque wrench but it was the longest I had for the 6-pt 19mm I had.

    Off to Sears to see about that lifetime Craftsman warranty ... and buy a 1/2" 19mm socket.

    But If I can't loosen the LCA bolts I may have do this with the spring compressor method instead.

     
  2. Nov 9, 2015 at 2:16 PM
    #2
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Using a new socket on the inside of one of them (with breaker bar this time) I felt as if I'd either bust the breaker bar OR shove the truck off the jack stands. Now what? No rust or visible corrosion on the bolts.

    It then occurred to me that I should probably be trying to loosen the outer bolts instead? I can't reach the front outer one until I figure out the stupid skid plate (7 bolts removed, it won't budge). The rear outer LCA bolt is right next to the steering rack boot or whatever and socket won't fit on there.
     
  3. Nov 9, 2015 at 3:58 PM
    #3
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ... and it seems I need a larger wrench for the outer bolts. The inner are 19mm but the outer appear to be something like 22mm, which I lack tonight.
     
  4. Nov 10, 2015 at 12:21 AM
    #4
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Just what are you trying to change??

    Are you changing the Control Arms ??
     
  5. Nov 10, 2015 at 3:47 AM
    #5
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I want to loosen the bolts so that I can let the LCA swing down. I'll be swapping coils/struts with the "no spring compressor" method.
     
  6. Nov 10, 2015 at 8:30 AM
    #6
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    After removing the front skid plate, the forward-facing LCA bolt in the front was cake to loosen. But the socket won't squeeze into the space at the backward-facing bolt near the inner tie rod on the passenger side. I'll either have to pop the tie rod free and hope it swings away enough, or find a 22mm 6pt wrench. I won't risk using a 12pt wrench, and that's all anyone has locally.
     
  7. Nov 10, 2015 at 8:56 AM
    #7
    chowwwww

    chowwwww Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like its taking you a lot of work. I used the spring compressor that I rented from the auto store worked fine. or you can just remove the strut and take it to a suspension shop and ask if they can assemble your new struts.
     
    Ugly Betty likes this.
  8. Nov 10, 2015 at 9:12 AM
    #8
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I already own a spring compressor. That's how much I hate using it. However, if it comes to that I'll try using it with my big electric drill; adjusting the compressor with a ratchet or wrench is my definition of "a lot of work."

    Tie rod end not responding to BFH so I'm off again to get a puller. My new parts aren't all in yet; the majority of my "work" has been to buy some tools to fill in the gaps.
     
  9. Nov 10, 2015 at 9:18 AM
    #9
    chowwwww

    chowwwww Well-Known Member

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  10. Nov 10, 2015 at 9:21 AM
    #10
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ^^ A cordless impact is on my list for Santa. Can't say I'd have used here necessarily but yeah that'd be neat to have.
     
  11. Nov 10, 2015 at 9:26 AM
    #11
    chowwwww

    chowwwww Well-Known Member

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    Billys 5100/Eibach and Wheelers Progressive 1.5 AAL with overload in
    Its a very good tool to have. that one in the link has no problem removing axle nuts. Be good to have on an offroad adventure.
     
  12. Nov 10, 2015 at 9:27 AM
    #12
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Are your ball joints different then the 2000 ??

    When I installed my loaded struts I just unbolted the ball joint from the spindle.

    That allows the LCA to drop 4 10mm bolts compared to the Cam Bolts
     
  13. Nov 10, 2015 at 9:30 AM
    #13
    1rooster

    1rooster TACOMA31750

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    Sounds like your cam bolts are seized. If that is the case you will not be able to get a proper alignment. Hopefully with a larger socket you will be able to break it loose
     
  14. Nov 10, 2015 at 11:48 AM
    #14
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So ... with a tie rod puller the tie rod is free, only to learn that the outer tie rod isn't obstructing that backwards-facing LCA bolt, the inner tie rod is. So that was a waste of time. Oh well, now I own a cheap tie rod puller finally.

    Home Depot
    Lowe's
    Harbor Freight
    Northern Tool
    Sears
    Sears Outlet
    auto parts stores


    Nobody local to me sells a simple 22mm, 6pt. box end wrench. I did buy a metric flare wrench set to have on hand, and it includes a 22, but that slipped off. Almost bought a ratchet-wrench set because those seem to have sharper splines than regular 12 pt. wrenches but at $60 I punted.

    I don't yet have any reason to believe the bolt is seized; I haven't yet been able to get a proper tool on it yet. At this point I could just order a wrench online and have it be here by the time my parts come in.
     
  15. Nov 10, 2015 at 11:54 AM
    #15
    chowwwww

    chowwwww Well-Known Member

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    Not quite sure if this would work or how dangerous it is, but if you are set on not using the spring compressor and using the weight of the truck to decompress the coil. How about putting a bottle jack on the UCA and jacking it up causing the lower control arm to lower. I know I had to use the bottle jack on UCA to lower my LCA to help fit in the new strut when I did my lift. Just a thought. Not sure if it would work though.
     
  16. Nov 10, 2015 at 12:45 PM
    #16
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That should also work; I've read of others using that. Doesn't seem like it'd be too good for the upper fender well however.

    Wow, not many options for 6pt 22mm wrenches online, either. There's an Armstrong at Amazon for $33 and a combo 22/32mm for $20 also at Amazon and one by CTA for $22 elsewhere.

    So I'm at a crossroads. What I'll probably do is bolt it all back up and do it the "usual" way and just remove the coil and strut together. What I'm now aware of is that in order to reassemble the new parts I'd have to be in two places at once, over by the floor jack's handle to raise the LCA while guiding the strut shaft into the top hat while keeping it all together. Pass.
     
  17. Nov 10, 2015 at 12:57 PM
    #17
    09 Taco 808

    09 Taco 808 Well-Known Member

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    I've got a Makita cordless impact, love it, keep it with me and a small set of tools just for my truck, just incase I need. Good feeling knowing I have tools with me at all times especially if I get a flat, impact makes all the difference. Worth every penny
     
  18. Nov 10, 2015 at 1:06 PM
    #18
    gordi

    gordi Only had a wheel fall off once

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    ur cams r seized so even if u put in new suspension ur alignment will stay off until thats changed. U try soaking it in PB blaster? or any heat? the cam bolt would be my number one priority at this point.
     
  19. Nov 10, 2015 at 1:32 PM
    #19
    deckeda

    deckeda [OP] Well-Known Member

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    5 mins after my last post I had it all buttoned-up and the coil/strut assembly out. At least that much is done now. Just need the brown truck to show up with some goodies.

    Edit: My bet here is that unlike me, the alignment shop will own a 22mm wrench, rather than the bolt is seized.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015
  20. Nov 10, 2015 at 2:30 PM
    #20
    4WD

    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Like probably mentioned your LCA bolt(s)&/or cam adjusters are seized , this my friend is a first class bitch, I ended up cutting & drilling mine out (& 2 days I'll never get back) make sure to use plenty of anti seize when re assembling..
     

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