Lower control arm bolts

I plan on replacing my LCA assemblies as I read it is easier to do than just replacing the ball joints. I read a few other post stating to cut off bolts and replace since most likely the bolts are seized. I just got my an alignment about a month ago. Can I assume the bolts aren’t seized and won’t have to cut them off?

 

No, often alignments are “toe and go”
They don’t touch the lower control arms

What year truck, how many miles since the bolts have been replaced, if ever, and what part of the country?

 

Are your LCA’s rusted?

 

2008 with currently 244k. I bought this truck with 125k and it has not been changed to my knowledge. Toyota has a sale and I am trying to get all the OEM parts.

 

Yes I live in the midwest

 

Climb under and try to loosen them if you’re not sure. Personally in the rust belt I’d want them on hand just in case there was an issue you’re already prepared.

 

If it helps any... my '08 with way less miles. CA sheltered, no rust. The lca bolt was seized on one side and had to be cut off when I did LCAs. Buy new and coat it with anti seize.

 

Does anyone have all the part numbers?

 

100% siezed

 

Just be careful when purchasing since 3g rear bushing is different.

 

Thanks. 2nd gen so I assume those parts should fit

 

Somewhat unrelated reply, but I just had to cut out and replace the all the front and rear cam hardware on my 87 Supra because seized, and I absolutely HATE that Toyota puts the pn stickers on the bolts. Annoying asf to remove. That car has the same style cam adjuster setup so I made sure to load my new ones up with antiseize before installing to keep future me happy. Good time to put in poly bushings as well if they are available.

 

Don’t cut them without trying to unbolt them — you may get lucky. But also be prepared with new hardware on hand, a reciprocating saw, and a couple carbide blades profiled for cutting thick metal.

If you want to avoid having to peel the stickers off the new hardware, you can check out the SPC bolts for the lower control arms. There are plenty of other third party manufacturers too.

Anti-seize is also a good suggestion for the bolts that run through the lower shock eyes. If you find out these are seized and need to be cut, you can replace them with grade 10.9 M14 80mm fine thread bolts from any good hardware store, but if those bolts are seized you will also need to have newer lower shock bushings on hand (assuming the entire shocks aren’t due for replacement). You can borrow a jaw puller from an auto parts store to press out the old bushings and install the new ones.

Also, knock the lower ball joint out while the control arms are still on the truck. It’s a lot easier that way. Then the little piece that connects the LBJ to the spindle comes off with two bolts that have 19mm heads — Toyota puts thread locker on those, so have some blue thread locker on hand. (Getting those bolt holes to line back up for install is a joy. )

The thread locked spindle bolts tighten to 118 ft lbs., the lower shock eye to 61, and the alignment hardware to 100. I think the sway bar bolts tighten to 51. (?)

 

Can confirm. I have used that exact pic to order those bolts for my 2nd gen. You don't need all of them though unless it's rusted to all hell down there. Just the 3 that end in xxx020 are the ones that are usually seized. Not a bad idea to just do all of them though if you can afford the little extra.

Use the "thick metal" blades with carbide teeth from Diablo. You can usually do all the cuts with 1-2 of those blades. Anything else you will need like 4-5 blades. https://www.diablotools.com/products/DS0608CF

 

I got lucky getting my bolts out at 200k miles, but I did spray them every day for a week with PB Blaster. Even then, I still had to break out a hammer and punch to get them moving. There’s very little tolerance between the bolt and sleeve, so even a bit of surface rust will make them want to stick and bind.