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Lower control arm!

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by TTTown002, Apr 9, 2021.

  1. Apr 9, 2021 at 10:20 AM
    #21
    Kwikvette

    Kwikvette Well-Known Member Vendor

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    4 run, 2 don't
    You do have to burn them out, but I went with Whitelines so I just used a bottle jack to pop the old ones out as I didn't need the old sleeve.
     
  2. Apr 9, 2021 at 10:22 AM
    #22
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    Tree huggers around the world are dying over the smell of burnt rubber for sleeves
     
  3. Apr 9, 2021 at 11:23 AM
    #23
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    The burn method is only of you go with the ES poly bushings. You can also use a press to push out the whole thing, and press in a new one, sleeve and all.
     
  4. Apr 9, 2021 at 11:24 AM
    #24
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    hahahahahaha
     
  5. Apr 9, 2021 at 11:26 AM
    #25
    TacoBike

    TacoBike The Researcher

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    Sitting here peacefully. Meanwhile @jbrandt burning his taco into obedience....
     
  6. Apr 9, 2021 at 12:58 PM
    #26
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    hell yeah - Burn that shit!
     
  7. Apr 9, 2021 at 6:26 PM
    #27
    TTTown002

    TTTown002 [OP] Active Member

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    The shop I went to just told me replace the one bushing but I wanted to see if there was decent upgrade arms that were for a stock setup
     
  8. Apr 15, 2021 at 6:12 AM
    #28
    devanHI

    devanHI Member

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    Just replace your bushings with the whitelines. I'd never done anything like it before but it helped a ton! Get a propane torch, bottle jack, some safety glasses and go. I used a dremel and a light wire wheel to clean up the arms before inserting new bushings and they went in easy. They were tight but a rubber mallot finished them off. Truck drives smooth, worth it! CHEAP
     
  9. Apr 15, 2021 at 6:27 AM
    #29
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Quite often (as in 100% the time here in the salt belt) the cam bolts are frozen in the bushings. The bolts have to be cut to remove the control arm. Kind of a pain, but doable if you have a thin disk for the grinder.

    I think the extra $35 for complete Moog control arms with new bolts is the cheaper way to go.

    Like said above, the control arm is not the weak link. In fact it is a part that is designed to bend before you bend something expensive (the frame).
     
  10. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:33 AM
    #30
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    Rockauto has the Moog lower control arms right now for $86.00 each. They have the bushings in them already. Totally the best way to go in my opinion. No hassle with the bushings and just take the old stuff off and throw it in the bin.
     
  11. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:50 AM
    #31
    jbrandt

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    They seriously were going to just replace ONE bushing?! That's like replacing one brake pad. Find a shop that's not so lazy.

    The only reason to replace the lower control arms is if you're going long travel, or (obviously) they are damaged, but that's rare. LCAs aren't a weak point.
     
    Abeyancer likes this.
  12. Apr 16, 2021 at 8:55 AM
    #32
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    I once thought that. Even ordered one as I didn't want to deal with the bushings. After having one in my hands I can say that even at $86 it's a waste of money, and a definite downgrade over the perfectly functional OEM LCAs.

    Just do the bushings. It's not much of a hassle. For the price of 2 of those LCAs, you can buy a harbor freight press and press in your own bushings. Or burn them like I did and replace with poly.
     
    Taco2021LB and Xbeaus[QUOTED] like this.
  13. Apr 16, 2021 at 9:39 AM
    #33
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    Good to know once I get the old ones wrestled out. Sot the Moog ones quality is pretty crap then you say?
     
  14. Apr 16, 2021 at 1:50 PM
    #34
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Not crap per se, but certainly not as good as OEM. If you actually needed LCAs, and are on a budget, I see nothign wrong with them.

    But the fact the LCAs likely don't even need to be replaced, I'd skip them. It'd be a downgrade in order to save a few minutes of time, while also spending more money on the parts.
     
    Taco2021LB and Xbeaus[QUOTED] like this.
  15. Apr 16, 2021 at 2:16 PM
    #35
    Xbeaus

    Xbeaus Well-Known Member

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    Myself - I am going with the Whitelines and replacing my bushes in the LCA. I have a lot of work to do and thanks for your input!
     
    jbrandt[QUOTED] and Taco2021LB like this.
  16. Apr 16, 2021 at 2:34 PM
    #36
    Taco2021LB

    Taco2021LB Well-Known Member

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    I took mine to Les Schwab, had them give the front end a good once over.
    I was told the tie-rods needed replaced, and the CVs due to wear.
    I went home with this in mind.
    When I got home, I jacked the truck up, and pried and pulled on everything. There was nothing that "needed" replaced. All was tight.
    The estimate was near $1,600.00.
    I spent $1200 for an OME Lift, and installed it. There was nothing that "needed" replaced, per the tech at Les Schwab.
    When I was finished with the install, I went in for an alignment, and the tech said I did it right, and all was good.
    Like, WTF?

    Cash Cow. They'll milk ya.
     
  17. Apr 16, 2021 at 2:55 PM
    #37
    jbrandt

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    The Moog LCA's don't come with the cam adjusters or bolts. Those are extra.
     
  18. Apr 16, 2021 at 3:08 PM
    #38
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    True. Still waaaay cheaper than OEM.
     
  19. Apr 16, 2021 at 3:17 PM
    #39
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    Just buying the bushings is even cheaper still.
     
    koditten[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. Apr 16, 2021 at 3:43 PM
    #40
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    It ain't quicker.
     

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