Lower intermediate shaft replacement

Newbie to the forum here - please forgive me if this has already been addressed, I couldn't find it in search.

I'm attempting to replace the lower intermediate shaft on my '05 TRD offroad (the one that hooks to the steering rack). The original broke at the u-joint, making removal a lot easier, but deprived me of the experience of removing the part in its original form. To install the new part, I'm stuck on if I can simply slide it into the existing top bracket and wiggle it on to the shaft from the rack, or if I need to loosen the entire steering assembly. Anyone with experience on this replacement?

Thanks in advance!

Trevor

 

OK, so I never got any bites so I decided to go the logical route. I found it impossible to fit the lower intermediate shaft to the upper shaft and rack with the limited play on the part. I ended up dropping the steering column. Once that was free'd up, the rest was easy.
Some tips for those that might have to do the job themselves:
- use penetrating oil generously on the joints where the shaft joins the rack - the upper end isn't so bad but at the rack connection, the corrosion is brutal (hence the reason for the repair in the first place)
- use a lift or ramps - there's not enough clearance to access the shaft where it joins the rack otherwise. I had to work in my driveway - my steering was totally disable and couldn't move it to a garage, but I imagine that it would have been a lot more comfortable indoors.
- be sure to separate the split clamps holding each end of the shaft - I used a large screwdriver to get it started and once it was spread a little, opened it further with a cold chisel
- mark the parts at the joints to help with matching up the fit of the new one. I didn't, but had my steering dead centered and lucked out reassembling
- I secured the upper end of the new shaft to the #2 shaft before I started my interior work on the column.

The majority of the work is inside the cab. Some great overview of this part of the procedure here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O01xIDnuk8 (I think that's a gen 1 - similar enough to get the general idea)

and here http://www.autocarepro.com/Article/...oma_makes_rattling_noises_on_rough_roads.aspx

Once the column was removed and the intermediate shaft was freed up, the rest was easy.

I couldn't find anything online about removing the trim so I played around with it until I got it right. Start at the kick board (driver's side). It pries straight up if you work it 3 - 4" back from the door. Once that's loosened, pull out the side panel by your left foot. That has 2 clips that insert straight towards the front, just pry them straight out. There are 2 10mm bolts holding the lower dash trim on each lower corner (scuse my rough terminology) concealed by the side panel. There is a 3'rd bolt concealed under a small hatch next to the e-brake. Once those are out, start wiggling and pulling it straight towards the rear of the truck. It should snap out with a little effort. Be sure to disconnect all electrical clips and the hood release is you want to completely remove the piece - I just left it hanging. There's a separate piece of trim at the e-brake - it was a nuisance to remove - it's seated on 4 tabs that push straight into the dash. It pulls straight out - I took it out at the same time I removed the larger piece.
From there, follow the steps in the video until the wheel / upper column is off, then take it a step further by removing the 12mm horizontal bolt that the lower part of the column swivels on. At that point, get back underneath and attach the lower end of the shaft - you can manipulate it any way you need to to get it aligned.

Reverse the steps to reassemble and make sure everything is tight.

My next job looks like the clock spring. When the shaft failed I made the mistake of spinning the wheel to show a neighbour. I haven't pulled the code yet but I'm pretty certain I overwound it.

All the best.

 

First of all welcome to TW!

Actually you can remove the coupling yoke on the engine side of the firewall (2 bolts) and replace just the lower shaft. Once unbolted the yoke slides. The issue here may be that the yoke could be rusted some so use penetrating oil and a large screwdriver to pry the yoke slightly open at its split a tiny bit. This is the method -- removal of the coupling yoke -- that is described in the FSM for removing the lower shaft.

The lower part of the shaft is splined as you know and I can be a pain to get it back and realigned properly so I make special effort to index it where it attaches to the rack. If you look very carefully, there is a casting mark on the aluminum part of the rack next to where the lower shaft attaches that seems to be an index mark.

If you are messing with the upper shaft too you might possibly consider that now is the time to put the TSB shaft in it (the upper shaft). With mine it helped greatly reduce the annoying steering slop and some of the clunk.

I found a boot in Australia that will cover the U-joint of the lower shaft to better help keep water and road slush out of it. As you know the bearing caps are not sealed very well and will easily rust. The first sign of the joint going bad is usually a stiffness in the steering wheel. In extreme cases it seizes.

Good luck and post back if you have questions.

 

Maybe a bit late with this but I'll be doing this replacement in the next few days. I'll post a detailed write up with pics/video. New to this forum so greetings fellow Taco fanatics.

 

check out the new guys jumping in and already contributing..



welcome guys!

 

Do you guys have a p/n for the lower intermediate shaft? Mine is popping at the little u joint yoke above the steering rack. I just replaced the steering rack bushings with poly ones from energy suspension go figure.

 

I Ordered mine from Toyota Parts Direct P/N: 4520304020 - Shaft, Steering Intermediate, No.2
Replacing the Lower Inter Shaft and doing the Zip tie mod really helped with my steering vibration and clunk. The wheel now turns like she did the day i picked her up. Took a lot of swearing, patience, and WD-40 tho... My old one was shot big time. Good Ol Canadian winters.

 

Ugh at some point I'm gonna have to change mine. I just spray the shit outa that ujoint everytime my steering starts to get stiff and good to go for a few more weeks.

 

you just spray it with WD-40?

 

Yup.

 

nice. noted for future reference.

 

Yeah mine gets "sticky" steering. Every once in a while it'll get really hard to turn at certain points. So I just spray that ujoint with penetrating oil and it's good to go for a bit.

 

Yeah that's exactly the problem i was having. its been months of cleaning the u-joint every 2 weeks and I couldn't take it anymore so finally had to do it. I just figured mine was extra bad because of the salt for 8 winters now. I do wash underneath in the winter just never this joint in particular... will now though.

 

I'm about to have to replace mine! What is the "zip tie mod" that you did?

 

Do a search for steering zip tie mod. There is a thread on it.

 

T in nl !

 

I will also be doing this on my 2007 but will be putting a rack the same time

Anyone have more info on a boot cover ?

 

I have another recall on my 07. Oboyoboy! The job of coating the frame a couple yrs ago apparently wasn't enough. I'm in for a complete frame replacement. I have the same issue with #4520304021. Is there a reliable place to buy this part other than Toyota?Thanx for any and all help.

 

@bobtackett you can rebuild it $30 link in my signature