Lowering first gen 5-lug

I think it's pretty safe to assume they bought the DJM kit which is just the upper control arms and the hardware to relocate the ball joints to give the drop. I'm fairly certain you have the stock coils as well.

The control arms are side specific, so you do not want to order 2 of the same upper control arms.

Do a google\youtube search on how to check if ball joints are serviceable. It's pretty easy and can be done with the tire still on the truck, but with the truck jacked up and the suspension hanging (or drooped) to get an accurate feel.

It is not as easy as removing blocks from the rear, but it as simple as removing and reinstalling parts as most part replacements go. Some key suspension knowledge will help, but if you just look up pictures and videos of stock Tacoma suspension (remember to ONLY look for 1st generation 2wd, 5 lug stuff NOT 6 lug\prerunner\4wd...2 totally different front suspension setups) and compare it to yours you should be able to revert it back to stock. I do not know of any tutorials. Sorry. Some searching on this forum might yield some results, idk.

Also, 1200lbs, I feel, is an awful lot for a mini pickup bed load. I'd be careful hauling that much directly in the bed. A trailer with that much weight (properly distributed) shouldn't be of concern, but that much weight directly on the chassis is just asking for very poor handling and braking performance.

 

Not sure if you received my response from my email so I'll stick here . I was impressd how quickly you responded and
also for clarifying the difference between the drivers /passenger sides . I am going to go slowly and understand what I am doing .
both sides of the front are up
wheels removed for more light and access
IMG E1226 jpeg is the drivers side upper arm (which is the lowered version ), is to be replaced with Dorman 522740

img E1227 and img e1229 , Is these pictures of the the stock spindle or a lowered spindle ? I appolgize for any redundancies ,

and if they are stock ,and the ball joints are good ? the upper arms on bothsides are all I need to purchase ?

and I do not need to do anything with the springs during removal or installation . ?

thanks again, ken

As for 1200 lbs , they are rated up to 1800 . I have been A metal fabricator for decades transporting heavy objects to install on my toyota one tons . I had extremely sturdy racks and 8 ply tires to carry elements over 20 ft .long .
driving with repectfully with loads is a must . chain binders and ratchet straps .

 

I wouldn't worry about your spindle. If it had a spindle drop along with the ball joint flip the thing would be damn near scraping the ground.

The spring will be under some tension, just like any suspension system that isn't a McPherson or coil over design. You just have to be careful when disconnecting the ball joints from the spindle.

Those upper arms that I posted from rockauto come with ball joints, so you can of course change those out (they'll probably come preassembled anyway) and you can keep those old joints as spares if they're good still.

If the lower ball joints are good, then yes, all you would need to purchase are the upper arms. You would then just relocate the lower ball joints to the bottom side of the lower control arms, instead of how they are currently on the top side. You don't even have to disconnect the ball joint from the spindle, just the 4 bolts connecting it to the lower control arm, especially if you remove the DJM uppers to get them out of the way first.

 

Did ya get that ball joint back in the proper spot?

Easy stuff, basically loosen the bolts holding the ball joint to the arm then reattach the ball joint under the arm as in @Murd3rd example below (recall the coil is under tension of course, I put a jack under the lower control arm then lower it slowly once parts are loosened to relieve tension):



Here is a link to DJM's instructions for the kit you have, if this helps https://djmsuspension.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/K2895.pdf

So the ball joint location is what is lowering your truck, the upper control arm would only be need if you cant get the alignment back to spec.

Check the lower ball joint when its unmounted by wiggling for any free play or looseness to see if it may need replacing while youre there.

Payload for a 2001 regular cab is 1474 lbs, this is including weight of all cargo and passengers, so with your self and anyone else in the truck 1200lbs in the bed is just about maximum for these little trucks.

With the max load hauling you are doing, you are definitely right about needing to remove the drop as you will bottom out everywhere running maximum load with 20 year old springs and components. Looks like they did replace the shocks with Bilsteins so that helps the cause. The sway bar links look replaced, so I would venture to guess that ball joint was replaced with an aftermarket and gathered a light coat of rust already..

To answer your ultimate question, people lower these trucks for various reasons (looks, better handling, etc) here is what I do with mine, a different kind of hauling if you will!!

 

Did you ever get your front suspension worked out? Did you end up replacing the upper control arms with new stock units?

 

Id be interested in purchasing the parts you pulled off so I can lower mine. Ill give you my stock parts if you need them still.

 

What shocks are yall running? I plan on getting Bilstein 4600's as there is no aftermarket support really for 5 lugs without modifying. Going to go with new upper and lower ball joints, flipping lower ball joints, and lowering blocks. My truck is currently swaying left and right when I make a turn which is why I'm in the market for new shocks. I emailed them and they said the Bilstein 4600's are designed for stock height but can be lowered a little. I want to go lower but am unsure which shocks would be best.

 

I am running the Bilsteins and a 4/5" drop and no issues. If you want to save some money, the KYB Excel G's I was running below were comparable and more affordable. The Bilsteins are just a touch stiffer which gives a bit more responsiveness if you are trying to maximize your handling this may be a good way to go.

You also may want to consider 2" drop spindles combined with drop coils if you want more drop, forgoing the bj flip to not induce any potential bump steer (sway) while you are doing all the work up front. This may be money better spent over the Bilsteins in my opinion as I have both in my truck.



The obligatory in the truck shot for reference, 2" blocks and OEM leaf springs re-arched by Deaver to give ~3" drop, for a total of 5" drop:



Also dont forget to ensure proper alignment. I also replaced wheel bearings, tie rods, brake pads, rotors, and tossed in an SRunner front sway bar and new links and bushings for good measure while redoing the front end revisions. Here is my setup during the install (2" drop spindles, Bilstein's, and ~2" drop coils for a 4" drop up front):



Needless to say, she rides like a whole new truck. Very confident and comfy to cruise down the highway at speed over bumps, and even handles curves like a sports truck now!



Hope this helps you get your Tacoma where you want her!