LR UCAs: ball joint replacement, ball joint hitting coils

No sway bar on mine and they don't touch.

 

I'm running 886's w/ nitros, oem UCAs.

Nothing ever rubbed until I put in the top plate spacers. I did some investigating and when the shop reinstalled the P/S coil in the strut after installing the longer studs they didn't "center" it very well, so it bows out just a little bit and rubs on the UCA.

Your coils look centered on the strut. What I don't like is the geometry of your UCA. It doesn't look any better than an oem UCA at full droop, which pulls in just the same way and I would estimate impacts at the same spot (like mine does at full droop).

It is inevitable with the design of our front end that at one point or another at full extension either the UCA or in your case the BJ is going to hit the strut. Looking at the angle of the spindle I think the only way out of this for you is to go uni-ball. That would help straighten the spindle out at full droop and keep it away from the coil. At that point the UCA would hit the coil after another 1/2"-1" of downward travel.

Your issue has nothing to do with the sway bar. With both tires off the ground full extension is full extension. If you don't believe me you can waste the time putting it back on and then lift the truck back up.

 

I just have stock UCA but with out my swaybar I noticed at full drop they contact my coils. I noticed this when rotating my tires. Didn't like the idea that they where making contact so I put back my swaybar.

 

Was it that you were lifting the truck up one side at a time as opposed to the whole front end at once?

Regardless, the sway bar does not change the geometry of the front end. It only ties the two spindles together in that if one is being forced up, the other experiences the same upward force, or vice versa. It can be perceived as relating to this conversation when it truly isn't.

 

Your issue has nothing to do with the sway bar. With both tires off the ground full extension is full extension. If you don't believe me you can waste the time putting it back on and then lift the truck back up.[/QUOTE]

Although I never checked it with the sway bar back, I only assumed that the swaybar removed was the cause of the contact. But I will ckeck to see if they still contact.

 

They will contact if you lift the whole front end. If you only lift one side the sway bar will not allow your spindle to fully extend because it is "tied in" to the other spindle (which is sitting snugly on the ground) via the sway bar. In that situation the sway bar is limiting the droop of the side you are lifting off the ground, thus the perception that "hey look, my UCA doesn't hit my coil anymore, must be fixed" when in fact that is not the case.

 

Good info Chris, I don't really know squat on suspensions. I get what your saying now. I only assumed, so you what they say about assumption?

 

LOL, I've been wrapping my brain around these front ends and front end issues since I started lifting my Gen 1 years ago. Banging my head trying to figure out why the ball joints keep going bad, how I blew my LCA bushings to pieces, why my CV's keep grenading. Applying all those lessons learned to this build. It's costing me more, but I'm doing it right

 

Glad to know your on TW Chris, will keep you in mind for Q&A for suspension! +1 for you

 

Updated my pictures from page one, see here or just go to the bottom of page one

After I do my changes this weekend I will take more photos of results.
I'm linking SPC into this thread. They seemed truly interested in helping.

 

Thanks! I'm only good for suspension questions from 0-3" of lift. I had my Gen 1 closer to 4.5" and it was maxed out, thus the rampant destruction of parts.

You should check out the mid and long travel folks! They do some really cool stuff using a more extreme version of our front ends. They air out their trucks like their name was Michael Jordan

And the SAS guys work a lot of geometry with their linked up front ends. Crazy steering mods, custom everything, etc. Sick stuff!

 

Man, there's a lot going on there. That bushing replacement will certainly help you out, those things were toasted

From reviewing the new pics I still am leaning towards a uni-ball UCA as your best bet. It should keep the top end of the spindle a little further away from the coil and better allow for that extra travel.

You really don't want your front end extending all the way down all the time anyway, acceptable while crawling obstacles and such, so if your UCA contacting the coil then becomes your downward "limit" so be it. Better that than the balljoint or a shock. If you do decide to re-install your sway it'll help keep the "hanging" tire from fully extending while navigating obstacles, but of course you will lose some flex.

 

Yeah, you can shake the wheel and see the play. I can't get anything aligned until that gets done.

The BJ that is the downward limit right now, so something has to change.

 

Best of luck! I'll be creeping the thread to see which way you go for the fix. I've been holding off on the UCAs, but I know it's a must before I do any serious off roading and start breaking stuff.

 

OK, finished up this last weekend!

First off, these are a royal pain to do. If I could ask Specialty Products to make changes, it would be:
1. Make the spec ride bushings be a two piece design. This would allow people to easily insert replacement bushings without need for a press
2. In the instructions, they ask you to install the bushings at an angle to avoid shredding it on a breather hole located inside the arm. This is damn near impossible, and I had access to a press. Our solution was to use a rat tail file and grind down the edges of the breather hole to make it softer. We installed as best we can doing things at an angle, but our additional prep work really made the difference on keeping the bushing safe
3. on the edges of the bushing hole, would it be too hard to add a flange or a wing on either side? This would make it really easy to use as a positive contact spot for any holding device you need while operating the press. Instead, using a press becomes impossible and you have to use a sawzall or hacksaw to cut the bushing sleeve out.
Sorry if this isn't clear, I might get some Paint skills on later to show what I'm talking about.

Anyway, on to the work:

first off, I found that my coil was installed correctly after all. Notice the coil position at the bottom of the coil.



Here's the new bushing installed. Notice the chunk out of it. That's what happened due to the breather hole gobbling off a bit. I'm guessing it's only cosmetic? What do you guys think?



Here's the completed work at drive height (with replaced BJ as well). Surprisingly, those bushings did the trick. The boot comes close, but no longer hits! I also like the new boot, it seems like it has a much better shape.





Here's the passenger. New bushings, old ball joint.



Here's the old setup again for comparison



I'll have full droop pics later... I'm somehow missing those!

 

I think that buggered up lip on the bushing will be fine. I would have been temped to grind flat the entirety of the breather hole.

 

Hey all, updates

first, here's a picture at full droop.



Also, I just received a follow up call from Specialty Products.
-They confirmed the chunk out of the bushing is just cosmetic. Also, newer arms are manufactured so that pressing isn't as much of an issue with that breather hole problem I had
-I asked if the spec ride boots could be cut in half and then pressed in by hand. They said there was discussion about that, but the bushing manufacturer feared it would cause premature wear due to the mounting configuration

Overall, very happy about dealing with them and have a renewed confidence in my UCA.

 

UCAs are on my must do list. Trying to learn from guys like you! Glad it all worked out!