LS6 Swap 2nd Gen Build + New Tundra

Can’t do that, don’t have a small enough wrench at the moment. My wife is gonna bring me one, I’m like 10 minutes from home.

 

She brought me a wrench and as soon as I cracked the bleeder, fluid shot out super fast.

 

which corner?

 

is it still just the front right?? If so maybe a bad caliper. They coulda pinched an oring or something like that on assembly

 

Passenger side

 

i assume you already have 30 times but check to make sure you arent pinching any hoses or stretching them.
maybe try swapping the left and right soft lines to eliminate those as an issue?

 

locked up and holding pressure, plus releasing the pistons after cracking the bleeder i think eliminated the caliper from being the culprit.
if the caliper was seized, it wouldn't hold fluid pressure after seizing.

 

When brakes lock up you need to crack lines staring at the master cylinder and work out to the wheels, when they release the part you cracked the line at is the likely culprit.

Do note that Toyota brake booster linkages are typically adjustable, if it's not adjusted to have a bit of free play it will keep enough pressure on the master cylinder to not allow fluid to return as it heats up.

 

Definitely a bad hose. Especially if it’s only the one side! Hope you get it sorted!!

 

That’s interesting. I made sure to make the tundra booster rod length the same as the original Tacoma one. Shouldn’t be the culprit. The pedal feels completely normal until it seizes, then the pedal is firm, but still pressable, and the pedal always returns.

Problematic because it happens to both fronts.

 

Unbolt the master cylinder and see if the rod is putting any tension on it, it should sit flush agains the booster with no tension pushing it out.

 

Not quite flush.

 

Yup ...gonna need to shorten that rod on the pedal

 

Rats. That’s annoying. This booster isn’t fun to remove

 

By whatever distance it’s sticking off the booster?

 

What’s weird is it had free play when I first installed it. It was hard to get the pin out of the brake pedal linkage, it was super tight

 

Didnt you modify the pedal to get the correct rod length? You should only have to adjust that length. It doesnt require the removal of the booster....at least mine doesnt. But yes shorten it that length and a touch more. I adjusted mine so there is about 1/4 inch pedal movement when the rod touches the master cylinder....you can feel touch it by pushing the pedal by hand. hopefully im making sense to you.

 

Nope the pedal is stock. Never modified it, only added the rod extension. You’re saying that the pedal moves 1/4 down before it engages the MC?

 

This is my rod length. I’m going to have to remove one of those jam nuts.

 

Also… someone needs to come out with a metal grille. I’m tired of snapping these plastic ones.