LSD vs Locker...?

No...I haven't. It just seems like a waste of money to replace a perfectly usable traction device for another traction device in the same differential. It was more of a 'money saving' suggestion than anything.

 

oh well. either way it is a good idea.

 

I know this thread is old but as I’m looking at Lockers for my 2005 Gen 2 DCLB and I am reading every thing if I can prior to final decision. I have the TRD Sport rear LSD and open diff in IFS.

I going either E-Locker or Air Locker up front replacing the open diff up front. I spend 90% of the time on 4x4 trips driving in the Hight headed to where I’m going wheeling so LSD our back is best and I’m beating my truck up off road as I do more over landing trips than Hardcore off-roading, will leave that to the Jeep guys with there Dana 60s. Not sure what I will do when clutch in the LSD out back fails. I think you can Detroit licker for rear 8.7” housing in my truck, I know there is no LSD for front 7.5” clamshell or that’s what I would get I place of a locker.

 

I'm locked front and rear (Factory E-Locker and ARB Air front) and there is a big difference between the locker vs LSD. The biggest difference is when going straight the LSD will/can work LIKE a locker but will disengage with any speed difference from wheels on the common axle, the locker isn't letting go unless metal breaks.

I wanted to add that for most people the straight line engagement on the LSD's is perfect for "getting up that hill that's a little slick". LSD's can be pre-loaded to engage more like a locker but can effect the way the vehicle handles with the stiffer engagement.

Edited twice sorry

 

I understand, my truck has the TRD supercharger, JBA Ceramic coated Shorty headers and 3” exhaust so anything other that the LDS outback will give me traction issues and since it’s my daily driver I don’t want to give up on road traction but from time to time need a bit more off-road so I figured a locker upfront would help a lot.

out of curiosity, what are your thoughts on the factory E-locker compared to the ARB? Any issues with compressors or airlines?

 

I prefer the factory e-locker over the ARB and this is my reasons why:

Never had an issue with the factory locker.
Factory locker indicates on the dash when more or less engaged.

The ARB is cool because I wanted a compressor anyway and it can be engaged whenever you send air into the lines and that's also a potential problem. I had an ARB supplied solenoid fail open due to corrosion and turning the compressor on at 30 mph was no fun. No damage appears to have occurred but I won't air my compressor up while moving anymore.

 

yea, I have been doing some research on
the Harrop / Eaton ELocker product. It appears Eaton USA supports and distributes Harrop / Eaton traction products in North America. www.EatonPeformance.com. The Harrop E-Lockers appear to be very similar to the factory e-lockers.

I like the simplicity of 8amps through a Relay and switch over an air compressor, tank and switch gear. Plus I’m adding a Flex-a-Lite electric radiator fan soon to solve some air conditioning issues related to sandwiching the AC heat exchanger between the radiator and inner cooler in AZ I’m added electrical switch gear anyway.

 

Generally speaking, you want a LSD on the highway, and you want a "locker" if driving off road. 4X2 trucks are better off with a LSD, and 4X4 trucks are better with "locker" differentials. It's a coin toss if you have a Prerunner. Choose the device you will use the most. For the majority of people who spend very little time off road, it's a LSD. But those who want to go off-road a lot might prefer a locker.

A LSD senses wheel spin, then engages the other wheel until the truck gains traction, then disengages automatically. A locking differential is much better off road. You lock the differential, then have max-traction until you turn it off.

 

I have really enjoyed having a compressor onboard but the stupid solenoid really made me think twice about the many ways the air system can fail or worse grenade the factory dif

This is not entirely accurate, it allows for differential speed in the wheels but locks when the wheels are accelerating at the same speed while not overcoming the clutch tension in the diff. There are also exceptions with different styles of LSD's.

Good overview of whats going on inside the diff.

 

Holy Thread Revival!!
Love my trutrac it’s been great still isn’t no where near a locker but hey with e-brake on 3 wheeling it hasn’t stopped me yet.

 

Unless you offroad frequently, i really like the behavior of the Eaton truetrac in both of my tacos. It uses helical gears so there arent any clutch packs that wear out and it will light both tires up if you need to. I would never go back to a locker after having an ARB and the Truetrac. The simplicity of the truetrac takes the cake for me

 

I recently had a Truetrac and 4.11 gears installed and I put it to the test this weekend on a 4x4 trail and it performed flawlessly. Two years ago I attempted the same trail with the factory clutch pack LSD and it failed miserably, albeit the clutch packs were probably worn out. My truck is a daily driver, so I chose the Truetrac over the air locker.

 

So do you have any complaints about the Truetrac on the road? Snow? Heavy rain? Driveline jolts? I’m thinking about your same set up but using Eaton E-Locker up front instead of ARB. I’m 85%-90% on road but off road a lot overlanding and want the best of both worlds...

 

i am running a Trutrac and it works flawlessly in rain, snow and i have had no jolts or weird things going on. its smooth on pavement and in turns. based on your use description above i think something like a Trutrac makes more sense for you than a locker. you will realize the benefit of a Trutrac more often (usually without realizing it) and in more varied terrain without having to engage it or even think about it. when you run into a situation where you truly need a locker a Truetrac wont save you but again for you that sounds like it would be pretty rare.

 

The Truetrac was installed last month, so my experience is limited. No rain or snow in So Cal yet.

On dry pavement: When driving normally I never notice it is there. The times when I have to mash the pedal(highway merging or darting across a busy street) I can feel the tires hooking up better than before. I'm sure the 4.11 gears help with acceleration too, but it's probably minor. Previously around corners my tires would chirp, not anymore. Same thing would happen when making a left turn and the rear tires were on the crosswalk paint, the tires would previously chirp, not anymore.

Off road: The Truetrac performed awesome this past weekend. After I chose the right line, I climbed a hard pack sandy hill with ruts(did not air down). My first attempt I picked the wrong line. On the rocky inclines I had it in L gear and the truck just cruised up the trail with ease. One of the trails I was on had a small section of a meadow and wet grass. I was a little worried I would lose traction, but the Truetrac proved it's worth. There was no real mud on this trail, but the trail was soft.

No driveline jolts that I would attribute to the Truetrac. The Taco jolt is still there after you come to stop.

So far, I'm happy with it. I'm looking forward to going back to spots where I had traction issues with before.

 

i should add that there are a few sections on trails i have run a few times that i either could not make or needed multiple attempts that i walked up fairly easily with the Truetrac. recommended for the probably 99.9% of the time you dont have one wheel in the air.

 

ellocodetroit,
Was your factory rear diff an open diff or the sport LSD?

honkonbobo,
Same question to you, open or factory LSD? I'm curious to hear yours or anyone else's comments of the TRD LSD (with clutch pack) compared to the Truetrack. Thanks in advance for any comments you have assuming either of you had the factory LSD.

 

I had the factory sport LSD with clutch packs. Truetrac hands down is better than the factory LSD.