LT 4x4 busted CV joint. Please help

Hey guys,
I have a 2014 DCSB tacoma. It has camburg LT on the front. 4 wheel parts put it all together. It has a torn inner CV boot on driver side so i get the SDHQ HD ones and take it in to have them put em on. Well when they got it up on the rack, at any kind of droop there is binding in the inner CV joint and they want to replace it. It's pretty nasty clunking at droop but not noticible while driving. Since it has extended axle shafts you order a cv assembly from toyota and they have an axle shop prep the extended shaft with the stock ends. Right? Prob is the CV assembly from toyota is like $500+. plus labor to switch the shaft and reinstall. Gonna be $900 + after everything. Which I'm pissed off about obviously. Is there somewhere other than the stealership I can get genuine toyota cv assemblies? Used possibly? I dont care as long as they are genuine toyota not Chinese shit.

I call upon you graceful and wise toyota gods, oh educate me in the ways of longer travel, so as I don't get hosed.

Thanks in advance guys!

 

open up the cv and see whats wrong. i thought some of those kits you need to grind a bit on the cv to get full travel?
you could try Amazon for toyota parts too.

 

They used to have complete oem axles on Amazon for $324. I bought one to replace a bad cv caused by a poorly installed camburg kit installed by 4wp. I don't see the axles on amazon anymore, but here's one on eBay


http://m.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-OEM-05...e-CV-Shaft-Axle-Assy-4343004070-/291539700816

 

Thanks for the replies guys. I might have to go that route @glorifiedwelder Thanks for the info. What exactly did they screw up on the install? My driver side inner cv is loose and clunks around under droop. Not the shaft side, the diff side, but I'm not sure what exactly until I can look at it.

 

Do you have limit straps ? Could it simply be that you are drooping out past the usable range of the cv ? Jack up the front end and put it on jack stands with the wheels fully drooped off the ground. Try to spin the tire and if it feels locked up that is just your cv beyond its max. Put the jack under you lower control arm and jack it up slowly 1/4" at a time trying to spin the tire each time. If you jack it up 1/2" and all of a sudden it is fine then you just need limit straps.

 

@Evenflow Yea it is strapped, they are set up within range of the CV. When I had it up on the rack I measured both sides the same and the passenger side is smooth as butter. I just need to get some time to look at it to see exactly. Im wondering if this is going to be problematic down the road with regular use? Would it be wise to spend the money now and get that Solo Motorsports 4340 axle kit? seems like if I have to do more than 2 of these it would justify the price. Kit looks sweet but I have no real world experience with it and dont know anyone who has it. Evenflow or anyone with an LT 4x4 have some experience with these?

 

it should not be a continued issue, to s of people have LT kits with oe cv's with no issues. That Solo cv kit will only work with their XLT kit which is a 4.5 over kit.

 

you could go with these. it will hurt at first lol

 

It was a lot of little things. The major points being not setting up the front straps correctly, leading to cv problems, I think unless it's a race car you should always use adjustable clevis' to make up for strap stretch, otherwise if you have an issue you have to cut the tab off and reinstall. The front c/o's had so much preload their was no droop, limit straps were stretched tight at ride height. The rear was also strapped wrong. The orientation of the strap mounts was such that they bottomed out on each 1" into the bump stops 3 inches of travel. I have friends that were in management at 4wp after hearing the horror stories I would trust them to change my brakes

 

Aren't those for their +2 kit?

 

Also consider that you now have parts on your truck that are custom parts and will not find them off-the-shelf, if you break one you're going to be dead in the water, I would recommend you purchase an extra for when these issues come up, you can just swap out the failing CV and put a good one in and rebuild at your leisure, it will save you a lot of headache down the road.

 

I have a pair I removed from my old truck. boots ripped. they are oem. if interested let me know. Im on O.C. they need cleaning.

 

For sure, thanks for the heads up. I'll just rebuild that side and have and buy an extra for later on just in case

 

Those are specific to All Poo's +2 kit and I would be surprised if they still offered them because unless something has changed RCV no longer makes any second gen stuff ?...they had a very high grenade factor and they stopped production almost two years ago I think. If those are in fact a new redesigned RCV second gen CV it completely sucks big hairy salty balls ( in regard to clearance issues ) that they went with a traditional finned CV boot vs the RCV ball type boot ?

 

Just had a spare minute to double check and if you go to RCV's website they still list nothing for Toyota trucks past 1994. That coupled with the fact that those CV's on the All Pro site do not have the RCV spherical ends or the spherical boots leads me to believe that what All Pro is selling is OE Toyota CV's with upgraded RCV axles pre assembled by RCV possibly ? Or is RCV back in the Tacoma game finally and testing a new product via All Pro without offerring them to the general public yet for mass consumption...in case the grenade feature is still active ? If someone has spare time & is curious call All Pro and ask for details and let the rest of know. Be sure to ask if the CV is specifically an RCV made from scratch CV.

Note - Dirt King offers custom machined ( clearanced for extra range of motion ) OE CV's for their long travel kits. You can bring or send them your OE as a core deposit etc here is a clip from their site :

Additional 4WD info: To achieve the maximum amount of travel on 4WD models we offer 1” diff drop spacers and the inner CV’s must be internally machined for clearance at full droop. Dirt King offers pre-machined inner CV cores that can be swapped for an additional $120. You have the option to buy just the extend chromoly axle shafts for $649 or a complete long travel axle assembly with machined inner CV’s, new boots, new seals, and packed with Lucas Oil heavy duty grease for $1085. The cost will drop to $975 if you send in your undamaged OEM axles as a core. We provide these options to make the axle installation painless and no special tooling needed.

So, through Dirt King you can get basically the same thing for just $1085 ...half price vs AP.

 

just to be clear, it is definately the cv joint clunking? Not the shaft in the needle bearing at the dif itself? Unless you have the ECGS bushing that replaces the needle bearing, there will be slop at driver side dif. I wouldn't trust 4wp to tell the difference.

 

Call CVJ Axle for all of your axle needs. Re-built factory parts, it's definitely your best bang for your buck on CV axles and axle parts.

 

does cvj offer the modified inners too ?

 

I know the inner shaft has some play in it, but im not sure how much is ok. Seems more than normal. Would it be wise to ge the ECGS bushing if im in there replacing the cv assy anyway? I ordered a oem cv assy, and was going to reuse the outer cv and shaft and put the new inner cv joint and inner shaft on it.

 

@Evenflow thank you for the mini write up on the RCVs! Even if they were bombproof, it would be hard to justify that price unless it was a race truck. When I have some time I'd like to call all poo and see what they say. And I would be jumping all over that dirt king cv deal if I didn't already have the extended shafts...