LT classifieds

I went the same route. Rear was roughly 3.2-3.5 ish all said and done Edith a new Yukon third with zip locker and ruff stuff housing.

 

yeah i think my rear axle build is gonna be a tundra 10.5 center, with a ruffstuff housing and camburg 2.5 hubs. hoping to get an answer back from arb if the rd146 air locker can use dana 60 spider gears so i can run full floater 35 spline shafts. And yeah i know i know why don't i use dana 60 or ford 9" but i already have a full tundra axle so i've got the third member to start with.

 

I'd sell the tundra axle towards a 3rd but you could stick with the camburg hubs

 

That Tundra 10.5" is just as wide - plus bolt pattern adaptors will add another 4" of width to get you back to the Tacoma 6 lug.

 

send the axles and rotors to moser. I talked to them about it and they said they can redrill the axles for like 110 for the set then probably another 50 to machine the face to get to a 106 bore size.

 

Do they weld in the old wheel stud holes? or a new faceplate for the semi float axle?

 

What rotors will you use - do they have to drill out Tundra rotors?

 

yeah they will plug weld and redrill the hub on the axle. I talked to them about doing it for my and they said it should be $110 bucks for the weld and redrill. I was gonna go that route till I decided I think I’m gonna use camburg race hubs and convert to full float.

yeah they will redrill tundra rotors.

 

this is what Moser does. This threads last few pages show whats up here. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/amelia-adventure4x4s-build-w-10-5-tundra-axle.664837/page-6

 

The only thing about the 10.5 is it's big clunky, and won't ever have the aftermarket support of a 9 or 10" - what's the spline count on 10.5's? High horsepower application would be better with the 9.

 

I agree. Zero aftermarket axle shafts on the market. have to go find junkyard axle shafts if you fuck one up. They are a 36 Spline.

 

I would avoid Moser and try to find someone else that can do it. They did a great job plugging and redrilling, but they turned the hub back too far and I don't have enough to center my wheel or have that assistance in case an excessive load is applied. They said they had to do it based on their process, but of course they tell me after they did it . I haven't driven it at highway speeds yet so not sure about the vibe. We'll so how well the lug nuts center the wheel.

 

The lug nuts are what centers the wheel. My spacers are not hub centric, heck none of the 3 or 4 sets I’ve ran have been hub centric, and I’ve never had any issues with vibrations from that. So long as the bolt pattern is centered around the axis of rotation than you are fine.

 

Good to know, but there's also that concern of fatiguing the studs over time. I'm sure there is some deflection during use off road. I would imagine with the tight tolerances of the oem hub bore that the hub would support some if not all of that load...or maybe I shouldn't be concerned at all and the friction between the mounting surface and wheel is enough to prevent that deflection from occurring.

 

The friction at that mating surface caused by tightening the lug nuts is huge. There is a lot of force holding the wheel in place spread over that area. I’d be more concerned about over-torquing the nuts and stretching the lugs vs fatigue from off road use. That’s why some people upgrade the studs with arp’s or even drill things out to support larger hardware.

 

How much is the gap at the hub?? You could have spacers machined to fill in that gap and make them hubcentric again

https://www.uswheeladapters.com/hub-centric-rings/

 

There's enough hub present to center the brake rotor that's it. It does not extend out far enough. After Ryan mentioned that the frictional force was quite significant, I pulled out my old books and did a quick calc; he is right. I figure about 12K-18K lbs of clamping force per stud. Obviously this depends on numerous factors such as lubrication. Frictional force will be about 50-65% of that. I could be wrong, but sounds about right. I'm not too worried anymore.

 

3.0x10 race series for sale! come get em. 2500 bucks brand new still sitting on the shelf.

 

re: hubs vs lug nuts holding wheel in place / centering / etc. If your wheel deflects enough that it's mashing into the hub surface, all has gone tits up by then and you would have needed a press fit and to press them on in order for them to help.

 

GONE

I was hoping to get some kind of offers, but nothing. Does anyone know anyone that wants to come pick this up for free? I will feel real bad tossing it in the scrap bin. Its for a 96-04 tacoma