Lucky 07 PreRunner to 4x4 Conversion

sub'd!

 

Wow awesome. Thanks for posting the file. It will help make this project that much easier in the future.

 

Actually there still is another seal. The CV axle shaft seal sets inside the spindle seal. you will need two seals from RockAuto, part number 710573. These are knocked into the spindle where the cap used to be on the back side.



Question. Considering all the extensive work, and customization you are doing to your truck, may I ask why you didn't decide to invest that money into a solid axle swap? I think by the time all is said and done you could do it for the same price, but have a more capable Tacoma. Now you may have a reason, but just haven't said so. That is why I am asking.

 

So.....If you are going through all this trouble why not a solid axle?

Seems like it would be easier?

 

Thanks, I figured you'd know.

 

The question, why not SAS? A few reasons. First I needed to be able to do the 4x4 conversion in stages that didnt break the bank or have my truck out of commission for extended periods - this is my daily driver. Dont get me wrong, I looked at the RST builds for quite a while... I think I may have been able to do it, with a ton of help, but it would have been slow going.

The IFS swap with FJ case seemed like an easier project to me, when compared to doing the SAS.

Second, my play truck, 77 FJ40 with SOA, twin sticks and a few other mods satisfies my solid axle cravings when they flare up...

 

Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure, so I thought I would ask.

 

lucky, looks like you have a lot of love for duratracs. what size are you running on both rigs? even the fj is rocking some meaty ones.

 

Yup, I like the duratracs. Taco has 265/75-16 and over 50K miles.

FJ40 has 33x12.50x15 and about 200 miles. I've got room to run something "more bigger", but 33's are fine for now.

 

2 seals ordered, 2 day shipping. With any luck, I install front end this weekend.

 

Still waiting on a few parts, so I bench tested the ADD actuator this morning. Using an old atv battery I connected to red and black/white from the add plug. As soon as I made contact on the battery with red to pos(+) pole and black/white to neg(-) pole, the motor activated and moved the fork. I reversed my connections, red to neg(-), black/white to pos(+), the motor activated and moved the fork again. It appears to me I have a good actuator. Is there anything else I should test before it goes in the truck?

 

PM sent for hub assembly questions.

 

Seals arrived.

 

Wired up a test harness for the ADD actuator this morning using a $5 DPDT 6post switch from radioshack, ON-OFF-ON.

There is quite a bit of info out there about wiring the ADD and using a DPDT switch, I will add my .02.

To wire the switch for reversing polarity, connect posts 1 and 6 together, allowing a tail to come off of 6. This tail will connect to red on the 6 pin plug on the actuator.

Connect posts 3 and 4 together, with a tail off of 3. 3 connects to Black/white on the actuator plug.

Power in to the switch happens on posts 2 and 5. I went with 2 for pos(+) and 5 for neg(-).

I also added an indicator lamp to illuminate when the ADD is engaged. In the first pic, light is off toggle is down. Second pic, light is on when ADD is engaged, toggle up..


Now that I understand the operation of the switch and actuator, I will build a permanent harness and probably use a nicer rocker style switch.



Still waiting on 2 friggin blots, so no wrench turning yet today.



Second pic, light is on when ADD is engaged.

 

Sub'd

 

Looks like bad setup. You can not supply constant power to add motor. It needs to supply power, and turn off when gear inside reaches full turn. ( aka momentary switch)

 

Cool. Thats why I'm posting this stuff so I can quickly be corrected when I step on my ...diff. I've seen some other posts that suggest that the momentary switch is not required b/c the actuator will stop when the limit of travel is reached... then the motor waits for the next signal to run again, in this case, dis-engaging and again running its limit of travel, then waiting to be powered again. I didnt test to see if constant power was still being applied to the actuator once it reached its limit - i.e. fork moved the clutch... One thing I did discovered in this setup... once the add is engaged, if i move the dpdt switch to the off position (on-off-on) my indicator light obviously goes out, however, add remains engaged. I'm thinking of going with an ON-ON dpdt switch, so there is no chance of accidentally moving the switch to OFF position, then not knowing if I am engaged or not, if relying solely on my indicator lamp. If momentary is the way I need to go, I will. The switch I bought this weekend was simply to test what I understood the operation of the actuator would be and my ability to illuminate a light when I engaged. One problem I see is with my light, is with running momentary, once release the button/rocker, light is going to turn off - at least the way I have it wired. Guidance of any form is much appreciated. If I have stepped on my... diff, tell me.

 

Close-up of the switch wiring.

 

Maybe this is easier to see.