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Lucky 07 PreRunner to 4x4 Conversion

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by lucky, Jan 16, 2014.

  1. Dec 18, 2014 at 4:22 PM
    #121
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks. I'll let you know.
     
  2. Jan 5, 2015 at 4:52 AM
    #122
    jimmybee1108

    jimmybee1108 Well-Known Member

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    What's that for? Thought everything would work with the ADD harness and whatnot?
    Sorry I'm not savvy on how it all works
     
  3. Jan 5, 2015 at 10:59 AM
    #123
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You are correct, it will all work with stock/OEM wiring and switches. I opted to fabricate a custom part for a cable operated ADD engagement, taking the switch and electric motor out of the equation.
     
  4. Jan 5, 2015 at 1:14 PM
    #124
    lembowski

    lembowski Well-Known Member

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    You should sell as a kit once all worked out. I'd pick one up, such a weak link.
     
  5. Jan 5, 2015 at 3:52 PM
    #125
    jimmybee1108

    jimmybee1108 Well-Known Member

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    So is the mechanical cable actuated system economically and physically easier than the electronic ADD system?
     
  6. Jan 5, 2015 at 5:12 PM
    #126
    lembowski

    lembowski Well-Known Member

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    As long as the price is fair, not having to worry about the shitty electronic actuator going out is worth it for me. Its a pain in the ass to change and its a $250 piece.
     
  7. Jan 5, 2015 at 7:00 PM
    #127
    PSU Taco85

    PSU Taco85 Señor Member

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    Plasti dipped hootus

    Exactly. I've had 2 fail on me. One was my fault for traversing some deep water that went over the breather hose in the engine bay. Other one just stopped working one day, they are like a Rube Goldberg invention inside, all to simply move a shift fork over 1". Worst of all Toyota sells it as a compete part so you can't fix any individual pieces, really a smart design by Toyota to get more business though :rolleyes:

    81c48f636e2ba3b1270a4a92a0281066_7cc18f67195ba461606f94e8f4a70cec2bae7998.jpg

    5db9360ea903634bea358f0f5b0947c9_d66b6c5d198f2e9a32a05bc85b04964b20f46666.jpg
     
  8. Jan 5, 2015 at 7:58 PM
    #128
    jimmybee1108

    jimmybee1108 Well-Known Member

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    Well holy moly! What's the price on that mechanical piece and where's it getting mounted!?
    You've got a point that it costs less in the long run. I just imagine a nightmare running cable and the other stuff that goes with it.
    Like if a wire gets cut, it's a simple splice.
    If a cable is then it's a little more troublesome.
     
  9. Jan 5, 2015 at 8:02 PM
    #129
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am still working out a few final details, but if I decide to make a run at producing this thing, the goal will be to price it just below the electric ADD price. Since I have gotten quite a bit of interest, I am working on what will be required to make it legitimate and possibly useful for other Toyota ADD applications... 4runners, FJs, Tacomas... knowing that most of these trucks will still be operating their transfer case by actuator. In my application, I am going 100% manual mechanical...

    The part of this prototype you havent seen yet is the custom bracket to secure the control cable in the tight confines around the front clam shell while maintaining the correct alignment and cable bend tolerances. I will have more to show in a few days.

    I am definitely inspired produce a kit, but I want it to be a little more refined before I put it out there.

    Plus, I'm trying to finish the 4x4 swap - I still have a tranny to switch out thats been sitting on the floor in my garage for over a month.
     
  10. Jan 5, 2015 at 8:03 PM
    #130
    jimmybee1108

    jimmybee1108 Well-Known Member

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    Can't wait!
     
  11. Jan 5, 2015 at 8:05 PM
    #131
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I came up with a simple safety mechanism that would allow you to run engaged or not, even if the entire control cable were severed. More details will follow. Pictures and maybe a video.

     
  12. Jan 12, 2015 at 1:26 PM
    #132
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    ADD off
    [​IMG]

    ADD engaged
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Jan 12, 2015 at 1:27 PM
    #133
    jimmybee1108

    jimmybee1108 Well-Known Member

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  14. Jan 12, 2015 at 2:21 PM
    #134
    Mxpatriot

    Mxpatriot Well-Known Member

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    That's awesome.
     
  15. Jan 13, 2015 at 5:13 AM
    #135
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Last few things to do for this setup is to cover the linkage with a sealed bellow, attach a guard to protect the linkage, and the safety mechanism which will allow the arm to be held in the engaged or off positions in the event the cable is severed. The only thing stopping me from installing it on my truck right now is the bellow. Although the cable I am using has some stainless steel components, I want to completely cover and protect it anyway.
     
  16. Jan 13, 2015 at 5:18 AM
    #136
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    and one other thing... the breather. The OEM part has a breather tube on the side. I'm not sure I need to integrate one, but if I do, it will be on the top.
     
  17. Jan 13, 2015 at 6:00 AM
    #137
    jimmybee1108

    jimmybee1108 Well-Known Member

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    I say do it. I can't wait for this to be done! Then when you finish write a book on it and sell it for $15 a pop. I'd buy it
     
  18. Jan 17, 2015 at 6:39 PM
    #138
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Minor diversion. Sold my open diff in favor of an elocker.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Jan 17, 2015 at 11:48 PM
    #139
    PSU Taco85

    PSU Taco85 Señor Member

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    why the downgrade? I would have just slapped an ARB in the 8.4" diff versus buying the elocker axle. The other axle bearing caps have a nice large bearing gurdle to help prevent ring gear deflection.
     
  20. Jan 18, 2015 at 5:58 AM
    #140
    lucky

    lucky [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Understand the strength differences on the open versus elocker. In this case the primary driver was cost. I wanted a selectable rear and didnt want to spend $1500. A local guy offered to buy my open. If I break the elocker rear, or have reliability issues, I'll go open/arb. For now, I will have selectable for a small fraction of $1500.
     
    David Loflin likes this.

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