Lux's '01 Build

A few more updates;
baby flex on random snow pile



went wheeling with a good group, was probably one of the most frustrating trips we've had, ran into lots of problems, at least half the group got some sort of body damage, overall tough trip. First (and only so far) trip with the sliders, they did their job in a few cases, I got a little carried away trying to go through some large boulders that I had no business even attempting, those sliders were making me feel invincible lol.




Built the sleeping platform and drawers as well.
used 1/2" plywood for most of it and 3/4 x 3.5" oak boards for the faces. I had lots of problems getting the 1/2" boards to run perfectly straight for the drawer sides, if I were to do it again Id probably go with 3/4" I ended up running a border of 5/4" boards to support the outside as well as keep the drawer sides straight. I used 2x4's in the back corners for support. I left a good ~16" in the front of the bed to fit a 21 gallon water tank in the future as well as a dual battery setup or pump system. I bolted the front half of the drawer base into the bed and used rubber washers on the outside and inside to keep water out. The drawers are mostly 1/2" plywood with 2x4 corners and braces. the rails on the sides are 1.5"x3/4" sharp corner aluminum tube, I drilled 3/4" holes on one side to fit a socket in to tighten the bolts, the inside has stainless countersunk bolts to hold the rails. The

$40 608-2RS Skateboard Bearing, Red, 8x22x7, Sealed, (Pack of 100)

bearings I got on Amazon. They're just cheap skateboard bearings, nothing fancy, I spaced them ~2.5" from each other, Ill probably add more near the front to hold the weight better. I used grade 8 bolts with lock nuts to hold them on. For the drawer faces I used taupe colored cordura canvas just for a nice look and then espresso stained oak. The drawer handles are off ebay but you can get them on amazon too from the reliable hardware company I would have liked the recessed ones on amazon but the screws would have been right on the seams. Im still trying to find a way to keep them closed, I originally thought strong magnets would be good but the weight shifting when I accelerate would surely open them up. I have an idea to notch the aluminum rail on the drawers so that a bearing can kinda fall into the notch and lock it in but Im not so sure. The platform I decided to cut into 6 pieces, I originally had it in 3 but couldn't fit the pieces in so I cut it in a puzzle type pattern to distribute the load over the center board better. I painted all 6 with a thick outdoor primer and some nice tan paint that kinda matches my interior I found on clearance at lowes. Ive had to take this entire thing apart and its not super difficult really, takes a little while but its not hard so I might be able to retire the system when Im not planning on using it for awhile i.e. the winter. I decided to angle the side panels because it looks nice, I wanted the drawers pushed into the bed a bit, and because I want to put air/electrical/water ports/outlets on them, probably air and electrical on the drivers side and water on the passenger.















On the windows I decided to put aluminum tube to hold the curtains, I haven't gotten a chance to sew curtains yet but Im gonna be using a tan colored curtain I found for $7 on clearance at bed bath and beyond. Im starting to think I might be better off using solid aluminum rods for the curtains but oh well. Oh yea and thats my cb antenna on the platform, mount broke and it was scraping against the pavement, there goes the $25 I just spent on a new tunable tip this antenna has really taken a beating.


My brakes were making an awful grinding noise when I hit them, sounded just like the metal on metal I had previously. I tore everything apart and found that my drivers side caliper was seized. I decided to just upgrade to tundra brakes. I used the 13wl calipers, rotors, and pads from napa, the grand total was ~$386 after I returned the old calipers for the core charge, luckily they didnt seem to care that I gave them tacoma calipers lol. I also ordered from wheelers but didnt get a chance to put them on yet, however I did put my rear stainless line on. There was some debate over whether the stock front lines would work with these calipers, I just drilled out the banjo bolts and they seem to work fine, Im sure they'd be better if I drilled them out more but I can still stop on a dime now, huge difference. Since I did tundra brakes however I have had to put the front spacers back on, I beat the quarter panel back a bit more and cut more plastic and it doesnt rub when turning on the road but when I stuff I know its gonna rub bad, I honestly might just hold off cutting or bending more until I get different wheels, most of where I would rub is the quarter panel and pinch weld.




Thats it for now, Im really itchin to get out and wheel again but Ive been beyond broke, hopefully soon Ill hit some close trails, Ive got a few big trips planned for the summer. She's been a pavement princess for too long.

 

Nice looking platform bro. Did you get new brake lines for the tundy upgrade?

 

I got stainless wheelers lines but haven't put them on yet, you can use the stock lines if you drill out the banjo bolt

 

Maintenance To-do list:
- Rear drivers side axle seal
- Reboot passenger CV
- Fix water leak
- Fix ac compressor clutch
- Replace muffler/fix exhaust leak
- Replace weather strip
- Rear brake shoes
- Fix passenger seat bolt
- Fix CB antenna mount

 

Jim could you explain in a little more depth how you relocated blinkers to the corner lights,
thanks Dave

 

I did this with some 2nd Gen Hilux signal sockets I had laying around. Sure you could use about anything from the junkyard.

Pics toward the middle of THIS POST

 

Thank you sir

 

Got the Dakars in, had a hard time getting the main bolt out, I cut the head and it still wouldn't move so I think it was seized in the bushing, ended up cutting it on the inside of the hanger. The driver side shackle came off surprisingly easily but the passenger side I needed to use an air hammer to get out.



I put the main leaf and a 2" spacer to cycle the leaf pack, my numbers were off because I didnt cycle it correctly, was supposed to jack it from under the diff and go vertically. Im probably just gonna get 10" shocks and relocate in the spring. Here were my numbers when I tucked 1 side:
hub to fender:
tucked - 16"
droop - 32"
stock shock mount lengths:
tucked - 15.75"
droop - 23.25"
planned relocate lengths:
tucked - 18"
droop - 24"






Torqued everything a week after install, I was kinda surprised how loose the u-bolts got.

Flex tested a bit:



Not a huge difference on the road but haven't gotten to test them out on the rocks yet.
Also did my spark plugs last weekend and changed the oil and filter (valvoline conventional), apparently the carbon is carbon tracking, I replaced with NGK iridium plugs but Im gonna have to go back in there this weekend to clean up the boots and put some dielectric grease on the plugs. I was thinking about getting new coil boots but don't really wanna spend $45...


Also got this neat visor organizer thing, overpriced, but cool. Im probably gonna put a handheld ham up there if I ever get ham.

Oh and also got a new muffler, just used auto zone brackets to put it on and a coat hanger to keep it up.

 

Came out nice Jim. No squeaking?

 

Awesome truck , always great to see a beast 1st gen
Where did you get that organizer for the visor?.... simple yet useful idea

 

Thanks man! I got the organizer on Amazon

$40 Zulu Nylon Gear MOLLE Visor Panel (Coyote Brown)

here there are a few different cheaper options if you just search 'molle visor panel' but I liked this one the most and had some rewards money anyway

 

Looks good Jim, clean and basic, steady progress, well done.
This one will take you along way.

1st gens Rock!

 

Did you by chance every pinpoint what that front end clunk was? Did the sway bar bushings eliminate that?

Ever since I installed my TCF UCA's i've had the same thing. I installed wheeler's anti-sway kit about 11k miles ago, but i'm contemplating removing the sway bar entirely to see if that fixes the problem.

 

Your wheels look so good. Did they fit and clear your calipers alright?

 

@bennyboy831 judging from his first post that they are 16x8's and most likely around 4" BS, I would assume that they clear the OEM calipers just fine.

 

Im still not absolutely certain what it was, but I wanna say removing the sway bar eliminated it. The geometry of the sway bar I believe is just thrown off, you could also use spacers to lower it probably about a half inch.

thank you, they did not fit perfectly, i had to shave a little bit off the calipers for them to fit, I now have the tundra brakes and didn't want to shave them so Im running 1.25 spacers, Id like to get rid of the spacers cuz Im honestly not a fan of this super wide look I got, so i may sell the wheels/tires soon

 

So you did in fact remove the sway bar? How has it been driving without it? I've been contemplating doing it for a while now

 

It’s good, feels smoother, if you have stiffer coils then you’ll have no problem, my brother took his off and he has stock coils and there’s a lot of body roll.

 

I pretty much have the same suspension setup as you. Full OME kit with 881 coils and dakar leafs.
I greased my total chaos UCA's that I installed recently and that fixed most of it, but I might still take it off. My main concern was with highway driving at higher speeds and the stability. But it sounds like you don't that much of a problem without it.