M’s - Z silver bullet LS1 fun toy

Ironically, my drivers window has been sticking when the battery gets low. I've got a spare motor sitting on the shelf just haven't gotten around to installing. It helps if you only roll one down/up at a time. I think I remember something about these motors or the passenger motor not getting enough juice and leading to failures. Mine have always been very slow.

The last 02 SS I had I let the dealer replace the drivers side motor. It's kind of a pain to hold the glass and drill the rivets out.

 

It’s crazy to think of these cars as being 20+ years old. Time really flies.

 

Here's the driver's side motor. ACI is the OEM manufacturer I think. Part #A82460 and comes with new screws and nuts to replace the factory rivets. Not sure about passenger side #. Rockauto and Amazon are your best bet.

 

Also,

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor...-auto-trix-drivers-window-express-down-kit-1/
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor...uto-trix-passenger-window-express-down-kit-1/

 

Oh drill rivets yuck lol. Good tip on one window at a time.

 

Right!

 

thanks!

 

@txtaco87

 

Nice Camaro!! I’m just now starting to read through the posts on it and I Figured you’d appreciate my cornwell tools guys silver bullet n2O Camaro

 

Thinking this new year the list of work on the Z is going to be basic. Needs headlights, new tint, fix oil leak, speakers and go through the brakes and new coolant.

 

@MGMDesertTaco with having to drop the engine out to fix the rear main seal leak, can you think of any other PM work that should be done while the engine is out?

 

Yep, AFR or TEA Heads, BTR or Tick performance cam and fast intake/throttle body.

I replaced the rear main seal when I did the clutch last time. The trans was out and it was super easy to access without having to pull the motor. There's a tool you can buy from SacCityCorvette to hold the rear engine piece in place when you swap the rear main seal. Black RTV is your friend.





Maybe check the power steering rack. There's 2 bolts to remove it and one is bolted in upside down next to the oil pan. It will need to be cut and replaced if the motor is still in place should you ever need to replace the rack.

 

Also, there's a couple of coolant lines (maybe heater core lines) that are bolted to the side of the engine bay. You won't be able to unbolt those unless the engine is out.

 

Ha nice. No performance goodies for a bit. Leaving the engine as is for now. Plan to try to get its reliability back, make it more enjoyable to drive too. Needs shocks sooner than later.

 

Nice ride i had a 2000 Trans Am for about 15 years. Started as a bone stock automatic and well you know how the story goes ended up a 6 speed with H/C/I and bottlefed miss that car. Any plans for mods i saw maybe a stall, I had a yank 4000 stall before i did a 6 speed swap it was great from a dig. You dont have to pull the motor to do a real main. Although its pretty easy to drop the engine/trans and subframe together.

 

I love the lines on those fire chickens.

I recommend the Koni STR.T or Bilstein for budget/performance.

 

That’s sweet, looked for one of these. Very hard to find one not destroyed lol. Yeah thinking hard on on a Yank stall. Maybe a couple more bolt ons. Really want to drive it more than park though. I want to drop the whole thing and see what it looks like and inspect.

 

Those Trans AM’s are a fav for sure!

 

I’ll probably go Bilstein due to wanting to drive it lol. Thanks!