M/T to 5vz-fe mating tips and tricks needed! Asap

should right to the dowel pins. Some of those give fits, some don't, mine slid on all the way. AFTER A LOT OF JOSTLING. That thing demands being perfectly lined up.

 

Once it is lined up some slide right in.

Others fight every inch each one is different

You should never need to pull it in by the bolts

I put two bolts in to keep from pulling it back out when shaking and moving things

 

Cool thanks.this shits never easy for me. Something always hangs me up. The two right bolts holding the brace up under the transmission are seized. Smh

 

https://youtu.be/5PJPZ5-AK-I

https://youtu.be/mrSRBmFZ1wk

 

I knew this project was going to be a bitch before hand. I figured it would take a couple of weeks. I'm going into month 3 now and still not done. Didnt help I had to rent a storage unit and use it as a garage. Plus I fucked myself forcing the transmission to mate with the engine. I'm worried what I fucked up when I tried cranking it over. Still trying to seperate the two again.

 

Fake news. I did mine last week alone.

 

Fake news
You swapped transmissions last week

OP is doing engine alone
But you are a mechanical genius
Yes I followed your build thread
Great work

 

I had the hardest time mating my manual transmission with my 5vz as well. Ended up sliding it part way and pulling it together with the bolts and praying the splines were ok lol

worked out in the end

 

Look at 16:30 on Part 2 and think back.

Was the flat side towards the back and the tall side (of the disc) towards the flywheel?


The whole "fan side" throws me as the pressure plate has a few nicknames..... clutch cover being one. With it's appearance of the 'fingers' on the plate, I wonder if some refer to it as a 'fan'?\

edit: man this is weird as if anything be known as a 'fan' it would seem to be the disc itself, since it spins independently from the engine.

 

Hey I did my engine swap alone too

 

Hope you find some friends soon

 

Having installed a handful of clutches by myself I can tell you I never go by the sticker on the clutch disc.
Half the time it is not actually labeled for the application you are using it on.
Always look it up online and double/triple check.

More or less you will be using the bolts to pull it on the dowels for that last little bit, pretty much normal not going to ruin anything.
I think you can also slide the fork back and check around in there from the side, and slide it back in and make sure it is sitting right.
I wouldn't be so quick to yank it out just in case you didn't do anything majorly wrong.

from yotashop
https://www.yotashop.com/blog/clutch-installation-guidelines/

 

They get in the way when I’m working alone

 

Check it.. new issue. When I go to start it. Clutch engaged. It revs high immediately and dies when I let my foot off the clutch. While in neutral. What would cause this

 

We don't even know what happened to the old issue.

Grinding just stopped?

What happens when you put it in gear w/o letting off clutch?

 

The grinding was a two part problem that I resolved. The clutch disk was put in backwards and the starter hardware was loose. Now the transmission is reinstalled. It starts fine. However it revs high immediately and wont idle. I dont know if I mishooked up a hose or what, where do I start to look?

 

Wow Eric! Good perseverance there man. Making progress. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. Getting air in somewhere after the throttle body. Look for hose routing problem.

 

Thanks. This has all been an incredible pain in the ass. But I've definently learned alot through this experience. The last year I've torn this truck apart and rebuilt it. From the suspension, full motor dismantle and rebuild. Motor swap and clutch job. I'm relieved that I'm in fine tuning stage of this. I couldnt of done it with out this forum and the FSM. The T100 FSM was more descriptive than the 3rd gen 4runner FSM.

 

The problem I figured out with the removal and reinstallation of the manual transmission on these rigs is the pilot bearing. The inner race gets locked onto the input shaft of the transmission. How do I know this? Well, when we were making the video linked above, we had a hard time separating the trans from the engine. After some pry bar use and plenty of swearing, we finally got it out. What we noticed is the pilot bearing inner race was still locked onto the input shaft. We basically had to break the bearing in order to get the trans out. We had to use a puller to get the inner race off the input shaft. When we were reinstalling the trans, we had difficulty getting the trans fully mated to the engine. We got it very close but couldn't get it in that last 1/4 of an inch and we had the alignment dowels aligned. We surmised that it was the input shaft going into the pilot bearing that was holding us up. If it was hard coming out, it made sense it would be hard going back in. So, we got bolts started on both sides and slowing and evenly drew the trans to the motor, and it worked.

 

It's all together. It purs. However the last issue is when I start it and have foot on the clutch in neutral its roaring at 3500 rpm. And I let my foot off the clutch and it climbs quickly. Had to turn it off at 4500 rpm. What's causing this? Is it pertaining to the clutch system. Like do I need to adjust any pedals or bleed the system? I'm stumped