Magnuson S/C

Looks like I will be stage 3 soon then

 

Im looking for some Guages, theres SO MANY damn options... I'd love a factorty type look and don't neccessarily want digital with all the lights in my face all the time... anyone got some sweet set ups they want to show off??

 

^ Answer: Speedhut & Cravenspeed FlexPod

 

Just get a gauge with boost and AFR combined. Unless you need other gauges that's the simple way to go.

Like this:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/psb1.php

Depending on where you want to mount it, there are a bunch of options. Center console below a/c, on the a-pillar, on the top of the steering column, etc.

 

Do you guys foresee there being any problem installing the new walbro 255 fuel pump and the ucon, running it for a few days, then doing the S/C, cams gears, thermostat, and injectors?

 

The fuel pump can be done at any time.

I’d do the UCON and gears at the same time. I believe the UCON tune is too aggressive with stock cam gears. Could break something without exhaust cams being retarded.

Or if you’re worried you won’t have time to do it all, do the cam gears first. THEN the UCON. Safer in that order.

 

makes sense.

I guess if im gonna do it, I might as well just make a weekend out of it (worst case). I can do the pump one day, then do ALL the rest the next weekend. I'm gonna be hitting you guys up with questions when/if things dont go right and I start flaggin codes on the UltraGauge haha

 

I did the pump first. Got that out of the way. Drove it a few days to make sure that was all good.

If you’re changing to a smaller pulley, you can do that while the charger is on the work bench. Get that out of the way.

Can’t remember what all else your doing. But if you can break it up into a few smaller projects it’ll reduce your stress level. Also, less variables to diagnose at the same time, should you encounter any issues.

 

yea, the lower stress level is what I am going for haha. I have the fuel pump, cam gears (and thermostat), S/C, and UCON.

I really didnt want to crack open the manifold twice (gears...then S/C). However, maybe that is a "better" option as doing those two projects together (pump/cam gears), may ease my mind on the S/C itself.

However, with the gears done but NOT the S/C, I didnt know if the UCON would cause issues there either...might be a @Gadget@URD question?

 

Another tip.

When you start the S/C install....

Take off the grille and the hood support brace in the beginning vs later on like the instructions say. That way you’re not laying over top of the grill the whole time while your taking stuff apart.

I’m 5’7” and I did my S/C install before I lifted the truck and taking off the grill early on makes things easier to reach.

 

The cam gears don’t really take that long to do, if you’re in the middle of the S/C install.

Just plan for it to bleed over to an extra day. Just in case.

My projects always take longer than I anticipate. But maybe you’re more mechanically inclined than I am. I’m also a bit OCD and have ADD as well so I get sidetracked from my sidetracks, lol.

 

im the same way. Im anal about cleaning stuff off (not sure how the smooth the gaskets are going to come off) and that on top of reading the directions, then looking, then reading them again and executing it...everything takes me longer than planned haha. Id rather take extra time here and there to do it right than end up finishing, messing something up and having to guess where it could have gone wrong lol. I think though a SAT/SUN should give me plenty of time to take care of it.

 

Just installed my Supercharger 4th gen on 2004 Tacoma. It makes a clanking noise when idling and at load though to a lesser extent. Sounds like the rotors are hitting against each other. When in boost it sounds like metal to metal contact (ping??) looking at sending into Jon Bond or Highspeedlab. I already installed a new TRD nose cone, so hopefully not a full rebuild needed. I could do the do it yourself rebuild, but do need the rotors coated. Would I be good replacing the rotor pack and rear needle bearings or do I need to worry about the internal casing?

 

I think you mean 2nd gen SC - black one right? Man I hope the rotors aren't impinging on each other, that would be bad news. Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on disassembling it, you could take the nose cone and front plate off and check for rotor movement/play in the bearings. I recall @1997tacomav6 had a place that would recoat the rotors correctly, it wasn't cheap though.

 

When I had the rotor pack out it definitely had some play to where you could clank them together. I was foolish thinking the rear bearings would hold them apart.

 

The rotors have to be timmed, that might be your issue, don't run it till it's fixed, you don't want
metal in your engine, call Wayne at highspeedlab and he can fix or help you decide, tell him the
500,000 trd supercharger guy recommended you, he will laugh, I have the record for miles on a TRD supercharger that he has worked on.

 

Looks like I’ll be trailering it Home this weekend then appreciate the advice.

 

Yea, you could loss the engine if metal chips got sucked into the engine. Personally I just bit the bullet for 1000.00 and have it rebuilt every 150,000 miles and don't have to worry about this type stuff

 

Would love to supercharge my taco some day.....

 

Trailered it Home today and removed the Supercharger. Everything inside looked ok, some minor scoring inside the Supercharger. The rotor pack is a mess. Spoke with the highspeedlab folks today, very nice and asked me some questions and tried to troubleshoot before having me waste money sending it in.

Here’s a video of the rotor pack

https://youtu.be/2hS1fob4fKE