Magnuson Supercharger install and modifications

AFAIK our alternators don't provide enough voltage to fully charge agm batteries so you either have to edit the output with vF tuner or in the Magnuson tune OR use a trickle charger periodically to keep the battery fully charged

 

That’s why most of us removed the jet, to get that more aggressive kick. You can avoid it by feathering the throttle a bit more or put the jet back in.

 

Is that specific to the group 31s since they're so large? I have a yellow top on mine right now and haven't had any issues.

 

Ok so that kick is normal.. hmmm.

 

No, its specific to the AGM battery chemistry. While you dont have to run a voltage booster, over time you will see loss in performance due to internal sulfation. 1st post here explains it
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-northstar-agm-battery-voltage-booster-upgrade.604478/

 

Many of the Magnuson Supercharger kits come with spark plugs one heat range colder. For unknown reason(s), either cost or emissions related, our 3G kits retain the the stock spark plugs. Stock plugs are

$29 Denso 3491 FK20HBR8 Spark Plug

Denso 3491 FK20HBR8, Toyota 90919-01263. These have .55 mm iridium center electrode, and a similar fine tip platinum ground electrode. They also have two additional ground electrodes that mount to the sides. The extra ground electrodes help prevent misfires, so they can potentially be viewed as emmisions related. These plugs are only available in the stock heat range.

Here is a list of possible replacements that are one level colder and SHOULD(?) work. I'll add others as they are verified, feel free to list any others

Denso 5345

$9 IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

IKH22. These are the least expensive. While they have an iridium center electrode, it is tiny, at .4 mm. The ground electrode is nickel, which, along with the small size of center electrode, is probably why these have a mileage rating of 30k before replacement is recommended.

NGK 91961 DILFR7K9G, Lexus # 90919-01276. Twice the price. These have .6 mm iridium center electrode, and a similar fine tip platinum ground electrode. Gap is .9 mm (.035") vs .8 mm (.031") stock. Rated by NGK for 100k miles. These come installed on the direct injected turbocharged Lexus 2.0L 8AR FTS Engine.

 

I used these, per OVTune's recommendation, with my Twin Turbo kit on my 3GT:

NGK Iridium IX Spark Plug LFR7AIX # 2309

They should come pre-gapped to 0.032 but I elected to gap them to 0.028 for added security, especially since initially I was targeting greater than 7psi. If targeting 6-7psi, 0.031 should be g2g for you guys, per magnuson's install directions (stock gap), but a little more is okay for some added insurance, especially if you're running richer. That said, there is such a thing as gapped too tightly but 0.028-0.030 won't hurt you.

Gap recommended lower than 0.028 if running more than 7psi per OVTune, although like I said I did well right at 0.028 when I was targeting 9-10.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/yotawerx-tuning-services-and-feedback.731276/#post-26326313

YotaWerx is 3GT SC tune testing

 

WTF? Looks like they took the Jeep casting and applied it to this application for cost savings. That’s a significant blockage!

Has anyone taken a dremmel to this and bored it out?

 

Are these available for purchase?

 

I will be removing the runner restriction, pics when done.

So the only obvious difference between the DILFR7K9G and the LFR7AIX plugs, is the material on ground electrode. The DILFR7K9G has a platinum pin on the ground electrode, whereas the LFR7AIX is a regular flat nickel ground. Again, platinum is far superior/longer lasting on the ground electrode when compared to nickel. The ground pin also pushes the ground strap further away from the center electrode. Since the strap creates a shroud between the spark kernel, there may be slightly better flame growth. With a little hunting around, the DILFR7K9G can be purchased for $12 - $13 each... all info points to this being the best choice.

 

I ran the LFR7AIX with my twin turbo setup with great results.

The platinum pin is interesting though. I'd say go for it.

Magnuson runs the kit with stock spark plug gap, which is 0.031. This isn't bad at all, but people may see some nice results with a bit narrower gap, if only for piece of mind and perhaps some improved consistency, which may be debatable.

I personally ran 0.028 on my TT base kit, targeting 7-10psi (I adjusted my target a few times).

If anyone is going for additional boost over base Maggy (i.e. smaller pulley), gapping down to something like 0.029 - 0.030 may be worth it.

Gapping further than that was only recommended by Mat/OVTune for significantly higher boost. We're talking numbers in the teens here. I would not go lower than 0.028 for your guys' setups, maybe just .029-0.030. That's for both 90 and 87mm pulley, although your specific setup will dictate needs with higher boost.

*Edited comment

 

The platinum pin will increase life, no doubt. Interestingly, Lexus specs these to be replaced at 40k miles. The 8ARFTS engine also runs 17 psi of boost and specs a .9mm/.036" gap.

 

I wonder if that material allows for a wider gap

 

It will certainly maintain that gap for a significantly longer time as compared to straight nickel.

Here is the plug info right from Toyota. The platinum tipped nickel ground strap has a copper core to help pull heat out... that is a new one on me. SMH, I'm dorking out on sparkplug engineering features.

 

Throttle body talk https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/throttle-body-70mm-to-76mm-thoughts.715891/

 

Have you installed the DILFR7K9G plugs? How have they been working out for you? I'm looking at colder plugs for the upcoming 87mm pulley tune and I'm between those or the LFR7AIX.

 

No, but I foresee no issues with running them. The DILFR7K9G is essentially a longer lasting (100k vs 50k) version of the LFR7AIX that should fire off a bit easier.

 

For those looking to service the nose cone, the bearing in the nose/snout of the supercharger is an NSK 6204VV. Pretty common in Magnuson nose cones. The V suffix stands for non contact seals. These seals are great for low/no drag and higher rpm potential, but the not the best at keeping moisture out. Clearance is unknown, but probably a C3, or maybe CN. The seal between the bearing and intake throat appears to be an Omniseal, maybe a Series 10. The OD of this seal doesn’t show up in the catalog, so it could be proprietary for Magnuson… even the normal sizes don’t look like they are easy to source… shouldn’t be impossible, though.

 

Snout porting and bolt pattern change for the 76mm throttle body. To mount the V8 throttle body on the Magnuson snout, I’ve decided to forego an adapter, and change the bolt pattern to accept the V8 unit. This will give a clean look, keep the TB in the same position, eliminate having to trim the intake tube, and most importantly, give a perfect flow transition from the TB into the snout.

Completed mount up.



First, a ring of aluminum is machined to fill the o-ring groove and pressed in place. The snout is then bored to the outlet diameter of the V8 throttle body, which is roughly the same as the o-ring groove ID.

Next, the pattern is moved from 67mm x 76mm to 67mm x 82mm. M6 bolts made from 7075-T6 are inserted w/ red thread locker, tightened until bottomed in the bore, left to cure, then shaved flat. The new pattern is then drilled and tapped. While this rework should prove to be a strong connection, thread locked studs are put in to use for mounting the t-body. Any future removal of the t-body will not require disturbing these joints.

Plugged, studs, ring, bored.


Before work.



After aluminum ring and machine shop bore.


The transition through the snout entrance is complete by hand porting. More work needs to be done, but the rough-in work is over with.