Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

Interesting news.

As I understand it, the temperature of the spark plug varies in design to hold heat at the tip (hotter) or to keep the tip cooler. This is done by varying how firmly (closely) the tip is connected to the plug body's threads (water cooled by connection to the head), or extending the tip to distance it from the cooler plug body. A hotter plug will excite the air/fuel mixture at the tip, making it easier to ignite by the spark. Unfortunately, this hot point (plug tip) promotes pre-ignition, just like a glowing carbon flake!

With boosting and tuning, a hotter than ideal plug, will lower the knock threshold (pre-ignition), forcing the tuner/builder to increase anti-knock measures sooner. (cool down air charge, lower boost, lower compression, pull ignition).

Point being, that you can certainly use a slightly hotter plug, and tune/build to keep it safe; but is there performance to be gained by installing a cooler plug, and adjusting the tune accordingly?

I don't know. But thinking about this, and our adding boost is effectively increasing compression, increasing the charge temperatures and tendency to pre-ignite. During the high compression/high boost, a cooler plug has an advantage, as long as it remains hot enough to be effective at idle and low boost.

Do you have any experience or testing, where you dial in a tune with the stock plugs, then replace with cooler plugs and dial in the tune again? This comparison would make clear if tuning with stock plugs is leaving power on the table.

 

Very interesting. I have been noticing strong smells coming from the engine bay. Same thing as you, after driving and parking inside the garage, the smell becomes very apparent if I go to the garage a few hours later. I thought mine was more like fuel smell and started immediately after installing the 87mm pulley. However, today I was emptying my catch can and the smell of burnt oil was very similar to what I've been smelling. I'm going to pay closer attention and report back.

The one interesting thing is that it never happened with the 90mm pulley. As soon as the 87mm was installed, the smell started.

 

forgive my ignorance but what *would* suggest them?

 

Physical inspection will hints at where you are with your heat range selection by careful observation of the ground strap. The ground strap will provide you indicators of a plug that is too "hot" OR too "cold". You'll see a distinct heat mark on the strap and it's location on the strap is very telling. You ideally want this "mark" centered along the strap, too close to the tip suggests too cold of a plug. Operating on the assumption your ignition timing is appropriate for the setup. Monitoring knock via data acquisition, det cans, and physical inspection of the plugs are also some additional tools, however simply relying on knock alone can be misleading in determining a heat range for your plugs.

It's important these observations are done with fresh plugs under full load and immediately shut-down after to get an accurate read. Our test truck received fresh plugs after each dyno tuning session to have a final pull made to monitor the plugs and eval. their condition. I do not have pictures of the plugs after each of the tests but their physical condition was noted.

Another factor we considered, is the use of the vehicle and how ppl drive. I compiled 7000 miles worth of datalogs into a single log and ran some stats on RPM and Load for our truck during testing, development, dyno tuning, and daily driving. The stats were pretty clear that even during all the part throttle boosting, WOT dyno pulls and mountain pass driving the lower RPM ranges and low-mid load conditions were something we could not ignore. Given there were no signs of the plug being too hot, no issues with detonation, and factoring in low RPM/low-mid Load efficiency it was clear to us the OE plug was appropriate for what we wanted to accomplish.

Re: Gap - Moving over 400g/sec of airmass at 7000+ RPM has yet to show any sign of misfire or blow-out where the coils do not have the sufficient energy to generate complete combustion is sign enough that anyone on a 90-87mm Magnuson will not need to gap down.

 

us

Excellent Information! Thank you. You make me think, and pointing out that the right temperature plug is a compromise between anti-fouling and anti-knock (opposing forces). The measure you share, for where the line should be, is a good general rule, though is not as good at addressing the tendency to cause knock; as it is for tendency to fouling. Still, I must admit, this is likely a good measure for being hot enough, without being hotter than necessary; and it seems that makes it an excellent measure.

You do not directly mention logging during sustained high RPM and Load, towing up a mountain. Have you logged that also? Seems this would be the ultimate scenario that may benefit from cooler plugs.

 

You're most welcome!

It is a bit of a compromise as you suggested. However, I'm of the opinion that adjusting the heat range to combat knock is not the correct way to address the issue unless you're grossly off in heat range. Typically if knock is a concern and something you're battling with, your ignition timing is likely to be inappropriate for the condition (assuming a reasonable air:fuel mixture is present). I personally wouldn't use a plugs heat range to combat knock without first taking a deeper dive into the ignition timing and/or fueling.

Another thing to note - I'm not suggesting a colder heat range is bad just to be clear. It's very likely either would and could be an appropriate choice. But we decided to stick with stock based off the high proportion of driving outside of high load/boost conditions where the OEM has determined the OE heat range was ideal for the application. As we explore beyond 400g/sec of airmass on other superchargers for the 2GR-FKS it's clear we're going to eventually come to a point where a colder plug will be mandatory.

A lot of the internet wisdom that suggests "modified" engines or "boost" necessitates a colder plug are referencing "old school" methods dealing with old school engines with old school engine management hardware. Our trucks while by no means cutting edge, are leaps and bounds ahead of a SBC Chevy 350 w/ a non-intercooled roots blower fed through a pair of Holley 650cc Carbs and MSD Distributor w/ a vacuum diaphragm controlling advance over your base ignition setting - A setup that probably needs a step (or two!) colder than what originally came in the engine.

But moving on..

I did drag my 2,500lb utility trailer up and down the mountain passes here in UT a bit but that's all the load I had access too and with that weight it was virtually impossible to do sustained high RPM/Load testing as the truck would just accelerate and pull through the load. This data was included in our compiled dataset. We focused more on the part throttle boosting and maintaining posted speeds as opposed to loading the truck to the point it was locked at high RPM/Load and unable to accelerate. If you're using your truck in that manner, I would definitely encourage you to error on the side of caution and use the colder plugs, as that will tax the powertrain's thermal capacity.

Good discussion!

 

Interesting. Keep me posted. I wonder if it has something to do with the catch can. I have hose clamps on all 4 joints at this point, and it still happens. I wonder if it doesn't completely seal in the threads/lid? I feel like it does, it feels like a very high quality threading/seal on the can, but I guess now way to tell if it's completely airtight when under pressure. I'm on the 90mm pulley.

 

I have a thought: There is the PCV breather side, with the catch can, plus the other side is vented too; I checked and it vents between the MAF and TB. The other vent is expected to only breath a small amount of air into the crankcase, and with the PCV side maintaining a vacuum. But with boost, there are times when this Right Side Vent can actually vent out. This is much more prone with turbo systems, because they pressurize the intake tract, fighting and reducing the effectiveness of the PCV system, where the SC maintains a vacuum at the PCV connection at all times. Still with enough boost, it is possible to exceed the capacity of the PCV, depending on amount of boost, and amount of blow-by.

When I was planning on installing a twin turbo, i had planned on using a second catch can on the Right side vent line.

Seems with the charcoal filter, and the right side venting after the MAF; it would need to push a fair amount of oil before showing up in the air filter. Could be worth removing the intake tube from the throttle body, and seeing if there is heavy oil film in there, but not sure that would make the garage smell, without oil evidence showing up at the air filter.

 

That's an interesting thought. I'll take a look at that line. I'm not pushing the truck hard daily driving errands and it still produces the smell, it's not just high load / high boost scenarios, but worth checking the hose connections over there.

 

If anyone is interested, I pulled the supercharger off the truck at 7500 miles and sent in to Magnuson for a complete rebuild, nose cone, rotors, seals and bearings. Pictured below newly refreshed in an unopened box. It’s now up for sale for $5100 OBO. Location seattle WA. Buyer pays shipping. Also posted in the for sale section. If interested send me an offer. Worst I can say is no.

 

selling truck?

 

Gone.

 

Sorry to hear, but what's the replacement?

 

Was it new at 7,500 miles ago? is that the service interval for the SC? Did it need rebuild?

 

Yes. Purchased brand new from URD.

No. This is not a unit that requires service. Rebuilt due to bearing noise. Nose cone was replaced under warranty and noise persisted. So rotors, seals and rear bearing replaced. The main housing is unopened, (brand new rebuild) in the box from Magnuson as pictured.

 

That’s a real good deal. Considering the price they’re at now. I’m actually gathering all my old stuff and just ordered new oem gasket to revert back to stock. So it’ll be up for grabs soon.

 

Thanks for the new toy @Formidable
Now let's see everyone's gauges! Does anyone not run gauges?

 

I'm not running any gauges. Maybe some day....

 

Thanks again for the smooth transaction. Enjoy! As close to a new unit for a significant discount as it gets!

 

Does anyone without an oil cooler happen to have this spacer laying around?