Manual locking hub

So, not only are these manual locking hubs, but they're the only upgraded cv axles available too? What would the price point be on chromoly?

 

Thanks for the inquiries!!! For a complete Kit, the price would be around $2500. The Kit price is a little high due to the cost of the Genuine Toyota parts. Keep in mind the hub/bearing assemblies are all brand new genuine parts, CV shafts have a new outer end and have Genuine Toyota boot kits. Aisin Locking hubs would also work with these also but i opted for the Warn Hubs due to cost. I am considering just selling the CV shafts and seal spacers for the guys that may want to "piece" together a kit and save some money by using aftermarket parts. These first 3 sets are steel axles. The next batch i will be producing will be 4340 chromoly units. I am also currently doing a set of Total Chaos +2" chromoly axles for a customer for the manual hub conversion.

 

What hub/bearing assembly did you use? I thought the issue with this was making the ABS work. How did you get around that? Does the ABS still work?

 

So, what happens if you forget to lock in the hubs, you're rolling down the road and switch it to 4wd? If I do it on my T-100, it grinds like hell but it's a manual lever so you just stop pulling on it.

I would think this could be potentially damaging with the magic switch 4wd button.....

 

good looking kit. the front ADD logic shouldn't be much of an issue since that logic is just the shift fork in the diff. if you engaged it without turning on the hubs, the front end would spin free.

 

I'm not sure I agree with that. If the front hubs are spinning free, the front and rear drive shafts are not spinning at the same speed. Would the front drive shaft even be spinning? When I try putting my T-100 in 4wd with the hubs unlocked while moving, it grinds like hell. If you have an auto system launching everything together, I would 'guess' the outcome might not be good.

 

@Sideline Hero has been running his hubs in his new 4Runner for awhile now. I'm sure he'll chime in.

 

the hubs wouldn't have anything to do with the driveshafts...the t-case engagement will make them spin the same, and with the hubs off, the cv's would spin free in the hubs...

if you're getting grinding...you might have something partially engaged or sticking..

the 4wd logic in 2nd gens is in or out, on or off, issues in between is what causes the lights to flash

 

I think it's a good idea, I just think there may be an extra level of caution that needs to be understood when running this type of system.

 

Are you trying to go into 4lo? I have a 93 T100 and a 96 T100 and i can shift them into 4hi going 50mph with the hubs unlocked and not a peep.

I swapped the add out and swapped in older aisin locking hubs. Works perfect. Allows me to use 4lo on asphault in 2wd when moving big trailers.

 

I have a stash of ifs and solid axle aisin hubs. Can you shoot me a PM with a price on the CV and spacer?

 

No, just 4 High. I can shift it into 4wd without them locked if I'm not moving but moving, it grinds. 4wd has always worked fine in the truck too.

 

Years ago, when i first started my venture into seeing if my crazy idea would was possible or would even work, i wanted to make sure that i used as much Genuine Toyota parts to prevent "fit" issues. That also made serviceable parts (wheel bearings) more accessible if need be. The hub/bearing assembly was the first critical piece that i had figured out. Of course it would be easiest if the factory style wheel bearing was used (for mounting surfaces). The hub was one from a 2000 Tacoma (manual locking hub style). The OD of the mounting surface from the hub is the same as that of the original (fixed spline) 4WD hub. As for the ABS concern, the wheel speed sensor picks up signal from the wheel bearing itself, so there was no issue there. The ABS still works and performs properly with the kit as a stock truck does.

 

Ouch... I guess I better be 100% sure I'm never going SAS before I dump that much more money into IFS.

 

I think locking hubs would be great but even more than those I would like to have an actual shifter type transfer case such as I had in my 1st gen. The knob just feels too insecure to me.

 

Twin sticked FJ case Add an FJ tube and the op's locking hub kit? Perfect. Just a LOT of money.

For me, I just need to be sure I'm not going to go SAS in the future before dropping another 3k into my current setup. That's the manual hub kit, FJ tube swap, and shipping.

 

Hmmm...I thought of trying this before but just assumed Warn or Aisin had ruled this out. So you made a custom end for the CV to match up to the 1st gen hubs? Was it not possible to replace the end of the stock 2nd gen CV with the end of a stock 1st gen CV (one for manual hubs)?

 

The outer ends are that from a first gen. The shafts i designed (patent pending) are machined to accept that end. Again, i wanted to use as much factory parts as possible.

 

Awesome. Congratulations. It's quite a task coming up with anything for these trucks that hasn't already been done before. Any chance you'll sell just the machined shaft and the spacer so we can assemble our own CV's?

 

Thanks! I'm surprized no one has tried to figure this out earlier. The complete, stock length CV conversion axles and seal spacer adapter i was thinking would run about $1300-1500. I did aquire a bit of genuine stock CV shafts, so id just sell them assembled till i ran out of inner joints. The shafts were initially built to reuse your own genuine factory Tacoma CV shaft inner joint.(it would consist of the new outer joint, genuine Toyota CV boot kits and conversion CV axle shaft) You would've have had to take your genuine inner CV joint and transfer it onto the conversion shaft.