Manual to Power window mod

I want power windows in my 02 taco extra cab.
2 options, the $70 Amazon kit or the $210 A1 kit. Anyone used either of these and have advice? Money isnt really the issue for me, I just want it to work.I have watched videos on the amazon one and worry about the gear wearing out.

https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=TY88-K

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779Q38R4

 

Not impossible by any means

I did the same to a 90 Integra
But
Don’t forget about door cards as far as parts. To hold the switches on either side

in my case, friend bought Integra for that $500 24hr Lemons race. Got pwr regulators/door cards and luckily, same interior color as my POS
Wiring wasn’t the end of the world but did not have patience to correctly wire the ‘one touch’ driver window down

possible you could just buy generic switches and cut original door cards to mount
Love to see end product!
GL

 

i'm going with the A1 upgrade. I dont trust those plastic gears on the crank type.

 

can someone tell me the door panel color from this? its tan interior, 2002 xtra cab. I cant find any toyota internal color codes that are FB45 or even B45 or 45.

 

nevermind, looks like sem castella looks close enough (to paint the switch mounts).

 

so project status. Painted the switch mounts, they look nice. They forgot the 5 screws needed to secure them so im waiting for those.

Looking to secure a power source location. The lower kick connector is there and 2 wires on the right side end both show 12v with ignition on. I have the FSM but cannot see color wire codes for those 2 wires. Any help? I was reading that the Factory PW power stays on for 45 sec after key-off so you can raise the windows still, I'd love to find that wire if possible.

 

Nice! Can’t wait to see the final product

 

So i'm wondering if I should wire it to that plug, or just use that plug to trigger a relay? I have a spare 40w relay left over from my camper shell panel mod.

 

I'm going to use a timer delay relay so the power stays on after the ignition is cut so you can roll them up still. Ordered this:
https://www.qualitymobilevideo.com/bu509td.html

 

This is going to be great!!!!

 

The LED lights in the switches are green and not dimmable. My dash is amber. I either leave them unwired or find a parking lamp lead to splice into. think i'll probe that connector again to see if the other holes turn on with the lights.....

edit: none. lights have no effect on those. Might be a relay under steering wheel i can test for light functions though.

 

also my battery is 5 yrs old and shows leaks so time for a new one.

 

project day..
The 5 screws for the panels arrived while i was doing it. Make sure they are in your switch kit if you do this.
Also the A1 window kit says that the old manual windows are held in by 3 bolts, but the new one takes 4, and they dont give you that 4th bolt so head to the hardware store and get a few very short M6 flange bolts.
So far i have the hardware installed, just need to tidy up and connect the harnesses and zip tie stuff. Also, you will ruin your doors water barrier so have some plastic handy to replace it. Hardest part so far is using a zip tie to snake the wires through door panel, into rubber grommet, then into cab. more to come..

 

solid on the witch goes up. had to dremel a little.

 

All done. A few quirks, the drivers side control for the passenger window is backwards, still works fine I'm just too lazy to rewire it. That time delay relay i got for it is not staying on after i cut the ignition so i need to figure out why. The A1 guide says the LED lights on the switches are green, they are not, they are white. It was hard getting the drivers door panel back on since the switch harnesses exit the door out the bottom and you have to get them laid flat it the door wont click back on.
Make sure every time you connect the harnesses you check for wires that get pushed out by accident, push them back in.

 

Excellent Work!!

 

and for the record, the illumination wire I used was from the 3rd wire on the clock connector (which is no longer used for me)

 

I must have reversed one of the wires on the relay, i re-examined it and it now works, stays on for a few minutes after ignition turns off.