Manual Trans

Hey guys, a while back, i bought a 2008 tacoma. It's the 2.7L with a 5-speed manual transmission. I'm getting ready to service all of the fluids in the truck. So last week I started researching what types of fluids I should be using in it. I saw some older posts in this forum where people were having mixed opinions, but the consensus seemed to be that only GL-4 should be used. I work in the auto parts industry and it seems the GL-4 market is very small and getting smaller. So earlier today i was able to locate my owners manual for my truck. I found this. Could this be correct? This is my first Tacoma, I don't want to do something that's going to hurt the vehicle, or my wallet.

 

I run Redline MT-90 in my gearbox and t-case.

My understanding is that GL5 oils have a lot more additives (namely sulphur and phosphorus) that attack the yellow metals in the synchros, wearing them out much quicker.

So definitely stick with GL4 in those two. The diffs don’t care, as they have no synchros.

 

I'm running Amsoil MTG which is their

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 GL4 for the transmission

Technically and practically you can run a GL5 fluid in there and it will work. The main issue, as was stated by Will above, is that often in GL5 oils the extreme pressure additives don't play nice with some synchronizer materials.

Note that from my understanding, oils that are GL4/GL5 compatible tend to still have additives that are harmful to some synchronizers so you'll want to ensure that the oil you choose only states it's GL4. Not both GL4/GL5

In short, If I had a leak and my only option was a GL5 oil I would use it for sure, but when I could fix the leak I would flush it out back to a GL4 oil.

GL4 is harder to find but for a fluid change I would hold out until I got some. There are some good options like Redline, Amsoil, Motorcraft, and HPL which are also the most popular.

 

My haynes manual says GL-4 or GL-5

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90. Just checked the stuff I used on my last change (mobil 1 full synthetic) and it shows API GL-5 on the back of the bottle. It's been in the trans for awhile now and hasn't self destructed yet or even exhibited any abnormal issues. If it does I will let you all know.

 

It won’t cause immediate failure or really any noticeable short-term effects, but long-term use definitely shortens the life of the synchros as the additives react with the metals and cause accelerated wear. Meaning shifts will get rougher over time as the synchromesh materials get eaten away.

as said above, if I was in a bind and all I had was GL5, I’d have no problem using it temporarily. But I’d switch it back to GL4 as soon as practical.

 

I used Redline MT-90 when I did mine a few months back.

I spent some time, poked around TW and that seemed to be the consensus - there also aren't many alternatives for spec

 

Gonna error on the side of caution and replace with Redline MT-90. Just ordered some off Amazon.

 

I use Redline MT-90....234k miles.... original clutch as well.

 

I actually work for Napa, I will be going back to work tomorrow. I'm going to have a look at our products and have a case or 2 shipped in for myself. LoL.
Like most of you stated, the GL-4 is like finding gold. I'm going to buy a small supply to have on hand, as I don't see the taco going anywhere any time soon. I always wanted a 2nd generation tacoma, finally got one and I have to say, I couldn't be happier.
This thing beats it thru the long, cold Alaskan winters in several feet of snow like it was made specifically for it. I Love this little truck.

 

Same here! I’ve never been a truck guy before but after my first Maine winter living alone in the boonies, I wanted something a little more capable and reliable than the POS trailblazer I had implode on me after a year.

2nd gen ACLB fit the bill perfectly. Big enough to do truck things, but not a land yacht. 6 years and 200k later it’s still on the original clutch, not a single CEL, and never got stuck once. With routine maintenance, proper tires and a competent driver, these little workhorses go anywhere you tell em to. I’ll drive mine till the wheels fall off. Hoping to see at least 500k out of it.

 

This will be the 3rd winter that I have driven this one. Last year was an exceptional amount of snow. Several days I went into work when the jeep guys "couldn't make it".
Mine is the cheapest, bare bones, base model. I could only imagine how well 1 of the TRD off road packages would do. I drive it 6 months of the year (winter). during the fair weather months I have been restoring and rebuilding the truck. When I bought it, it had been wrecked.

Also, does anyone know where the fill and drain plugs are on these transmissions? I have searched high and low and can't seem to find anything except 1 plug/bolt on the driver side. It looks like it has never been removed. The internet has been no help in locating it.

Thanks again for all you feedback and help.

 

The only TRD-OR option I wish I had was the locking diff and/or ATRAC. It's plenty capable without those things, but they'd make some situations much simpler/easier to get out of.

Fill plug should be on the driver side near the front driveshaft, you should see a large but thin bolt head. May need an extension to get around the driveshaft. Drain plug is on the bottom. Always crack the fill plug before draining. Really sucks dumping oil and not being able to refill if the fill plug is stuck or breaks/strips for any reason.

Great thread on it here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-6-speed-manual-transmission-oil-change.287566/

 

Nice bro... take care of that g2. I grew up in Nome Alaska rattling around in my dad's Toyota Trucks. I now rattle my kids around in Toyota Trucks.. Just not in those harsh cold winter nights.

Thanks for the memories.

Nothing says reliability like a Toyota. Being 65 miles from help on a road in - 45 degree pitch black Alaska. .

 

This. I use Redline 75w90 in the diffs.