Manual transmission 3.5-chatter under load

All kms are not created equal. Towing = 2x maybe more, Hills = 2x maybe more, maybe towing in the hills is like dog years and you really have 200,000 km equivalent or more. I'm thinking it's worth a peek all up in there. BTW - say howdy to Corb Lund for me, thanks.

 

Yep, burnt clutch plates and flywheel = clutch chatter. It only will get worse till the flywheel is resurfaced and new clutch installed.

 

Interesting. I'm on +1 size. 265 70 17s.
At ~3500 ft. Have you tried different octanes ?

 

Gonna screen shot this. Thank you. I'll report results.
Dunb question. When you say steady pressure do you mean steady pressure downward toward floor or just constant level of input? Like half stay half way depressed for example ?

 

Going to call local stealership and start putting down the part numbers. I want to do a thorough replacement.

 

LOL I do feel the same. I am a firm believer in Toyota's lame tried and true , slow to adpat tech and R and D. Unfortunately I do a ton of hauling and would rather kill the gremlin before it blows me up on a trip somewhere remote.

If it weren't for this, I'd "let it ride".

Edit: even with the temperamental hydraulic dampner on our clutches!? Any of your old Yota s have that? Would you delete yours??I'm keeping mine but frequently curse it.

 

OP's 2016 may allow that, but my 2019 won't. If you hit press the brake and accelerator at the same time while the truck is moving, a message will pop up in the gauge cluster and the power will be cut.

 

Constant level of input on throttle. Start to apply brakes slowly and steadily increasing pressure. You are basically simulating load or an incline. After 5-10 seconds of brake application your road speed should be reduced as well as engine speed. If engine speed doesn't drop....clutch is slipping. And because your foot is still on gas if it slips rpm will likely increase slightly.

 

Not sure if my 07 has that damper. I will be interested to see how the clutch will feel in the 2022 when it comes. Might have to delete that dampened.

 

Shoot... never thought about safety system. Probably installed after the "stuck gas pedal" fiasco a decade or so ago. The old tried and true method may not be doable any more....damn safety!

 

IMO thats to low, your placing a huge strain on the drivetrain trying heavy acceleration from there especially while towing.
You'd be better off downshifting a gear .

 

Yeah, you'd think maybe the manual transmission equipped trucks world be spared as the clutch acts as an easy power interrupt, but no such luck. I guess I should be thankful they only cut power of you hit both pedals when going above some minimum speed as it still allowed me to heel and toe things to get moving on a steep hill.

 

Yeah, I might cruise on flat ground at minimal throttle below 2,000 rpm, but I shift between 2,500 and 3,000 rpm most of the time.

 

I run regular(not the bullshit 85 octane regular we have in Colorado but the actual 87 "midgrade"/regular), the air pressure is just way lower at altitude making it a lot harder for the truck to make power up here.(close to 7000 feet) Which in turn makes it easier to lug the engine, causing spark knock.
Run your RPMs up around 3500 before shifting and see if you still hear the sound, these engines don't really make much power until the 3000-3500rpm range anyway. That "disconnect" you described feeling when you hear the sound might actually be your ECU retarding your ignition because it detected the knock.