Manual transmission and or clutch trouble

Nope. From what I see, that's everything you'd need--parts wise--to do it yourself or to have a shop do it.

 

Don't forget to pull the drums, check the shoes, and tighten the parking brake if the shoes aren't too worn!

 

I just had shoes replaced and that's when i had no e brake.

 

Sounds like they weren't properly adjusted.

 

I would highly recommend a Koyo/OEM throw out bearing. The ones that come in those clutch kits are not as good of quality

Part# 31230-35071

 

Another way to tell if your clutch is going out. From a stand still, stick it in 3rd gear and slowly let off the clutch. If it stalls, clutch is good. If it doesn't, clutch is shot.

 

Yes, the guy that did the brake shoes said my e brake cables were shot. Idk if that's true or not.

 

Just did clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and fork.
180k for me.
Oem bearing and aisin on the rest mine was aisin stock.
We also replaced the rear main seal while we were there.

If you grab your brake cables where they go thru the backing plate they shouldn’t pull away from the plate.

 

Did you change transmission fluid? Used all aisin parts? Just want it done right.

 

How difficult is it to do a clutch job? I imagine it's just like any other RWD/4WD truck/car?

 

Can’t say right or wrong.
I changed fluid also.
There are so fn many clutch kits etc.
I figured stock went the 180k and wasn’t slipping.
Some say luk isn’t any good others say all oem sucks.
I could see markings /design of the pressure plate thru the inspection window and could tell it was aisin so that’s what I got.
But yes I went back oem.
The rear main I used fel-pro.
I had my flywheel resurfaced.
Our trucks came with either luk or aisin clutch’s.

 

Rear main seal 90311-88006

 

It wasn’t bad.
I was gonna do it on my garage floor with floor jacks.
Lack of help and ambition,
I did it at at local shop where I’m allowed to help.
The lift and proper tools made it pretty easy actually.
It has also had a recent frame replacement so all the mounts weren’t rusted up.

 

So i tried both tests suggested and it seems maybe not the clutch? Would it be the transmission then? Truck is still slipping especially going uphill or accelerating.

 

The biggest thing you say is it slips going uphill in particular. That's an obvious sign of a bad clutch. If you're that concerned, bring it to a transmission shop or a mechanic and ask for a courtesy diagnosis. A Toyota dealer would likely do a free diagnosis and let you know what the issue is.

 

Are you losing any oil between oil changes?
Wouldn’t hurt to pull the inspection cover and look for either oil or clutch disc dust.
No expert but I don’t think it would be the trans.

A older mechanic suggested that at speed and in high gear and coasting push in the clutch then dump it.
Does it lock right back in or seem to ease back in.
May want to look for the smoke in the rear at this time also.

 

Jeff brings up a good point that the rear main could be leaking and if that oil gets on the friction surface, it could cause smoke and slippage. Either way, the clutch would need to be replaced but with the addition of a rear main or galley plug depending on where the leak stemmed from.

 

Manual transmissions don't/can't slip internally. It's the clutch if there's slippage under load- engine RPMs increasing, but no increase in vehicle speed. And burning clutch is nasty smelling as noted.
I put the Aisin clutch kit from Rock Auto in my 2.7L- very nice, no issues, came with everything you need.

no Ebrake- maybe the cables are rusted, or the adjuster behind the drum needs manual adjusting. That will be easy to diagnose when you pull the drums

 

Ok great! Thanks everyone. And it is losing some oil between changes.