Manual transmission failure?

a- how many total orig miles on vehicle

b-what parts were replaced

one could frag a trans ..... that would NOT result in a slipping clutch
no less listening for gear whine does Not indicate clutch issues

main components are
1- clutch plate itself

2- pressure plate
NOT worn/ warped / contaminated

3- flywheel ...............
NOT contaminated
NOT distorted / warped
NOT Worn
Always helps to use OEM parts as sometimes aftermarkets are just c l o s e ???????

even if the slave cylinder is weak that actually raises its ugly head on disengaging
seldom does that become an issue on engagement

this may be the 3rd attempt on a the clutch
no less previously bad clutch use can foul the major components..............may not have been YOU
maybe the prev owners

new pressure plate
new throw out bearing
new clutch plate

 

Be nice to clear this up as a shop has actually told PO it was possibly done....what? Tens of thousands of miles ago? and worked when he bought it?

So Slander, when it's on backwards, what tipped you off to turn it around?

 

The notice stamped on the clutch disc which way to oremient it and the warnings in the FSM. I have also read online you can put it in the wrong way. Again I have never installed it backwards, I have read multiple warnings that you can and heeded those warnings. The only thing that can slip in a manual trans is the clutch, flywheel or pressure plate.

And check the clutch pedal. I burnt a clutch up on a ford f550 because the clutch pedal didnt come all the way up and the clutch would stay half engaged. You had to lift the pedal up with your foot the last few inches. I forgot to on a shift and drove it on the highway for a while, when we got off it slipped bad!! We drove it back home 6hrs feathering the throttle because if you hit the gas too hard the trans would slip.

 

I'm going with 'won't work'. I've done it on others. If it worked even slightly, they would've designed it not to bolt together all the way. that's how everyone else does it.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/3-4-v6-clutch-orientation-important.468641/

One of the many posts on this.

OP do NOT let them tell you the entire trans is bad they are ripping you off. I would pull the trans out and replace the fly wheel, pressure plate and clutch again as well as making sure nothings leaking onto those components.

 

man. First one Ive ever seen that would work at all. That's a foul up on Toyota to not only make it work, but make it CORRECT to be backward, (raised portion towards flywheel). Strange. I even did mine about 100K miles ago and don't remember it being backwards.

 

I would be surprised your trans has gone in just 160,000 miles. Also sounds strange that "per you mechanic" your clutch was installed backwards? I would take it to a mechanic that you are sure is qualified and have it checked out.
I would also advise to use a "new" clutch as opposed to a relined/re-man one.

 

Yeah I thought about the pedal being not adjusted since it had a bad squeak when I bought it, when depressing or releasing it. Seems to be correct? I can't force it higher and the clutch engagement starts a few inches down and is fully engaged a couple inches from fully depressed

 

So just as an update, it does sound as if the pilot or input shaft bearing (not sure of the name) is making a bit of noise. I can hear the difference when in neutral pushing the clutch in, but its barely noticeable. I haven't had any slipping or weird transmission issues since the clutch was replaced under warranty. Although now I seem to be leaking oil... but my oil level isn't going down and it doesn't look contaminated. My truck has been non stop problem chasing...

 

Yeah I feel for you OP. If at all possible I encourage you to learn more about the required maintenance and performing as much yourself as absolutely possible. There is nothing better than the peace of mind knowing a job is done right because you did it. This has so many benefits especially when considering being off-road / away from other people to fix your truck. I think these are the reasons so many folks on here do their own work, that and saving a ton of coin.

Can you get around underneath and follow the oil to see where it might leaking? A small oil or fluid leak can look a lot worse due to splatter patterns and stuff. If it's really bad, take it and pressure wash it underneath careful to not full blast important items like CV boots, electrical connections etc. Then drive it around and see if you can find the source. Even if you have to have someone else do the work, being able to have more info going in is always a plus.

Sending you good vibes on getting it sorted ~=

 

Most of the maintenance I can do myself. But dropping a transmission is a bit above my pay grade and I don't have a garage I can use for multiple days. I'm pretty sure its the same valve cover leak, but its been getting worse. That or now that I'm in warmer weather the oil and crud from living in the mountains is melting off. I have plans to wash it soon and go from there. Just a pain since this would be the third $1000+ job on this truck and I've only had it a year. Had a drive shaft fail, two clutches have burnt out on me, and now the water pump and probably transmission are having issues. I'm just going to clean it up and get it inspected, find out whats all wrong and then decide from there if its worth saving. Its a bummer that I've dumped this much money into it, each time seeming like I've caught up and should just need regular maintenance, and then another big issue pops up.

 

Well, it is 22 yrs. old..mine makes the low whine with clutch out too. It's kind of normal.

 

That is the way it goes at times I think we all have a $$$ point and say that is enough.

I have been lucky in that respect a friend had a 4Runner spent lots of money an easy $5000.00 in just parts I helped with lots of the labor.

For some reason clutch hydraulics got over looked the rubber hose failed that was his last straw .

Dumped the 4Runner for the $1000.00 in tires and wheels.

Someone Got a nice 4Runner for the cost of Clutch Hydraulics and the $1000.00

 

It stopped being named the hilux in 85 when the solid axle was dropped North America got ifs and the "pickup"

 

Like everyone else my money is on the trans being fine and the clutch being worn again

 

Possible, but I literally have less than 1000 miles on it at this point. And I'm not feeling clutch slip or anything like that, but noticing new noises coming from near the transmission. I'll probably drain some more fluid and check it out when I get the chance.

 

Well I don't feel like starting a new thread, and IDK if anyone is still interested, but today (6k miles after the clutch was replaced again under warranty) the same slipping symptoms were felt. Right at about 2500-3000rpm in 4th gear I gave it some gas and it revved up without any increase in speed. I have started to hear a ticking as well. (usually at all RPMs besides 2200-2800ish for whatever reason) Could a cracked flex plate be causing this?

 

flex plates are on automatic transmission vehicles.

who adjusted the clutch pedal free play if done?

I changed a clutch once and it had a slight slip once in a while 'til free play was set correctly.

 

I meant flywheel
The shop said they did. Might swing by my local guy here and see if he can confirm is correct. Just seems weird that it would be the free play if it only starts slipping after 6k of driving. also it hasn't even been as loaded up, and I'm not in elevation anymore so the truck has had it easier lately.

 

Has the pressure plate been replaced as well? I had to put a clutch in my 87 Toyota at 190,000 miles. It was original, as well as the pressure plate, etc. Clutch still had plenty left in it, but pressure plate was allowing it to slip.