Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

What are you seeing?

Are you updated to 04B14? I can't remember if you posted about that.

 

I am not even quite sure where/how to look to see some of the stuff I saw posted in the ovtune thread and didn't want to trash it with bs until I knew what I was talking about a little bit more than the zero I'm at right now. Is there a primer or intro or dummies post somewhere I could scour?

 

There really isn't anything other than the thread 1st Posts, the hell of the Dev thread, and / or the OVT News section:
https://www.ovtuned.com/blogs/news


The OVT MT, vF tuner, and @wrightme43 's OVT Install threads are all solid and packed with info in the many posts.

The fact is that the rest of us don't understand 90% of the tech bits that OVT posts. We do get features that are relatable to older MPI / Carbie motors or talk about driveability. Otherwise, it is just deep coding info.

 

your first mission is to find what ECU calibration you currently have on the truck. then you'll know what's possible for files. current like Tony said is 04B14.

 

And if I understand this correctly, I would need techstream, a laptop, and a cable?

 

Ohhh! Sorry! I thought that you already had OVT. If you're not tuned and potentially still on the Stock 04B10 or 04B11 tune, then yeah, get yourself flashed.

That is all that you would need to start. There may be people near you that can help flash you or loan out the Tactrix cable:

 

So installed 2WD Low mod today. Was a breeze. Thanks to @tonered, @lapoltba ,@BigWhiteTRD and @Pyrotech.

What an amazing mod, It should come like this stock. You dont need it all the time, but when you do its a life saver. The only thing is, i got a wrong size switch from ch4x4.com, it needs to be like an 1/8" shorter. Now it sticks out, but ill need to get a proper switch asap, any tips on where to get one are appreciated.

 

The "small" switch is the right one for below the HVAC controls.

 

There is some recent chatter on this topic in the thread. I’m about to add to it.

But, and perhaps not entirely in jest, I kind of wonder if a witch icon would be at all appropriate for the picture part of the switch itself. Given that the printed cards have that typo and it sort of feels like an alternate reality in 2wd low, like you’ve sort of cast a spell on your truck. At least not any stranger than a zombie switch.

Ok, I’ll stop there.

 

These are not necessarily cheap, but you can make your own custom one.

https://www.ch4x4.com/product/ch4x4-custom-laser-etched-toyota-small-push-switches/

 

That looks like the right size switch? Just shove it in, sometimes they take a little persuasion to go in

 

Question for y'all: maybe this isn't the right place but it's a BS thread so whatever. So I got in my truck this morning after having not driven it for two days and let it warm up for maybe a minute while I fiddlefucked around getting my life together. When I took off I noticed that the tank average MPG went down to 10 ish from 17 the last time I drove it. There's right between 1/2 and 3/4 of a tank after a hundred miles or so so it shouldn't drop that drastically from warming up for a minute. The only thing that's changed is that it went from being 100* through yesterday to about 33* this morning. Does this sound normal to anyone? Maybe I'm just overthinking it but thought it was strange.

 

Damn bro--- that temp dip was real. Someone sent me a screenshot of the 70 degree delta in less than 16 hrs or so.

That is strange. Did it go back up after the truck was warm?

 

That doesn't sound normal from my experience, but I don't think there is much that you can do at the moment. Keep an eye on it for a while.

 

Haha you ain't kidding. Last night on my weather app there was a red flag warning with a winter storm warning right below it.

It did go up pretty quickly, back to 16 and change by the time I got to class. I am slightly curious if it has something to do with battery voltage also. It's been well over 90* for literally three months straight which is hard on the battery, then dropping down that far I'm sure didn't help. On top of that it's powering a dash camera after shutoff for 24 hours or until battery voltage reaches 12.1v, whichever comes first. I haven't had issues with the dash cam specifically draining the battery, but it's been cranking slower lately after sitting for a day or more so I wonder if it got too low and reset it or something.

 

Yeah the weather there can go up and down quite drastic from my experience living in Castle Pines for a year.

I googled how 12v current is affected by a float. It kind of makes sense but I'm probably just making it more complicated; The farther the float drops it causes the actuator rod to move the wiper away from the ground creating less resistance and thus dropping the gauge level. So maybe your battery drain from Camera is affecting it?? Maybe try unplugging it tonight and check it in the am??


Float
The float can be visualized by thinking of the ballcock in a lavatory cistern. The buoyant float -- a sealed composite or metal ellipsoid, or a foam solid -- is typically oval rather than circular and rests on the surface of the fuel. It is attached to a pivoted actuating rod.


Actuating Rod
As the level of the gasoline or diesel in the tank changes, the float moves up and down with the fuel’s surface. It is attached to a thin metal actuating rod, one end of which moves with it. The rod is pivoted at some point along its length, then the opposite end is attached to a grounded variable resistor.

Resistor
12-volt power is supplied to one end of the resistor from the vehicle’s battery. A wire from the resistor runs to the fuel gauge. In some vehicles, the wire runs directly to the gauge, and in others it runs to a stepper or an electronic device that interprets the signal and actuates a mechanical gauge or a digital readout.

How It Works
Inside the resistor, a device that resembles a tiny windshield wiper is moved over a strip of resistive material by the movement of the actuating rod. The farther along that strip from the grounded end of the resistant strip the wiper is, the less electricity is conducted to it by that material. The wiper is oriented so the most resistance is encountered when the tank is at its emptiest, and the least when the tank is full. The maximum signal -- the unmodified 12-volt current -- makes the needle in the fuel gauge swing over to “full.” As the fuel level decreases the float drops, the actuator rod causes the wiper to move across the resistant strip away from the ground, and less current is passed to the gauge. The needle shows a decreasing reading. When the tank is empty, the float is at its lowest and the wiper is at the far end of the resistant strip from the ground, so very little current is sent to the gauge. The needle doesn’t move far, thus reads “empty.”

 

Maybe someone siphoned off a few gallons while it was sitting those couple days.

 

Thank you, yeah i need to make sure i get the "small" switch this time.

 

I tried haha. This one will fit in the clutch start cancel spot. I actually scratched the plastic trying to fit it in.