MARYLAND TACOMAS

@hyrule_trd it seems like a -12 wheel would be equivalent to a 1” spacer on a 0 offset?

 

That sounds right but I’m not an expert. I think that both backspace and offset can play a role.


I’d think anything around 0offset would work with the 275s but maybe someone around us has one you can try on.


This is why I didn’t go with 35” tires

well that and needed to regear after

 

Re-gear?

Ain’t nobody got time for that! lol

285s are the biggest I would venture on my truck.

Hey Eric, thanks for reminding me Connor has lift!

 

yea, I don’t NEED 35s and a regear but they would sure be nice

 

My, how things have changed. Way back when when I was happy and young, on my '85 Yoter desert explorer truck I had to re-gear to run the 33" all terrain tires that were the fad back then. The old 22RE didn't have the cajones to turn anything bigger than the stock 235 75 15's 5th gear was absolutely useless w/ the 33's and there was so much clutch slippage to get rolling in 1st gear, if I was at a stop sign or traffic light on the slightest inclines, I'd slip it down into low range and start out in 2nd gear. I got good at using the t-case like an under-drive unit.

 

Well, HECK YEAH!

But in reality....NO! lol

We're too busy with our Life Partner.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrI...Sd5uLH8JIyEHfecg&start_radio=1&rv=L6-uJLteKek

 

Speaking of 17’s… anyone have a need for a set of OEM Sport 17’s? They have Toyota TPMS installed, and I believe tires have about 40% or less left on them (stock tires). I don’t need 3 sets of wheels for 1 truck… or at least that’s what my wife says. So gotta sell them.

 

@AR15xAR10 needs them for his new purchase

 

I’ve got 2 potential problems or pain in the ass situations with my new light set up.

I’ve not mounted them yet but the might end up making full height too high to fit in the garage. I’ll need to measure everything again as some parking garages are low. I won’t know the full height till they are mounted.


I don’t know the true wattage of the lights. As lots of shops sell them, lots of shops list different watts. I’ve seen 50, 70 and 90W listed. I think they’ll be 50w each which will make my job much easier, though I already make a wire harness in 12AWG. If they turn out to be 50W I can just use the 30/40 relay and swap out another 16awg for a 14awg, going from the rack to the engine compartment.

Fuses are blown in my multimeter so I just ordered a new one with an amp clamp to check.

 

No sir, I do not….I’m in the process of unfucking my new rig now

 

So a 20x30 pole barn shop with a 12-14’ door is in the plans?

 

Wow, they look great against that red!!

 

So much better

 

I see those steps are gone… few!! Lol

 

They are up for sale and so is the bug deflector.

i need to order a few things to be able to transfer the lift over, so the 33s on the bronze wheels will not be staying on just yet

 

[/QUOTE]

So the bidding war begins… I’ll open at $5

 

Bidding on what exactly?

 

Good morning neighbor.

 

Morning all

 

Had the amp clamp waiting on my porch this morning.

I didn’t check with the truck running so maybe the readings will be different but I’ll check that later (which would make sense seeing that the reading of the known light bar is different).

Current light bar- 1.9amp 1.9x12=22.8 watts. Listing says 180wattts.

1 5”LED pod, 2.5amps, 2.5x12=30 watts per light. This could be right if they are 50 watts, as I don’t have the DRL/flasher portion of the lights wired.

If the readings are the same with the truck running, I’ll swap out the wire running from the rack to the engine bay, unless it’s 14awg already. I can’t remember.