MatosTaco's Build Thread

9-24-2011 So I didn't like how the filter was just sitting on the fender and squeaking at idle, I also didn't like my IAT sensor hanging by the filter. I saw that Rusty (Poppyseed) mentioned he had a homemade intake in one thread so I messaged him for a picture and I loved what he had done. Rusty cut the stock intake piece right before that big ugly resonator and added a new elbow up to a cone filter. He told me the elbow was available at any Advance Auto Parts and he even went so far as to hook me up with a discount on the part! I bought a new maf adapter that comes with a hole for the sensor and is aluminum (the plastic piece I was using was flexing and causing the gasket to crack). At home, I traced the shape of my maf pipe's flange onto the maf adapter and drilled out the hole's so it would align to my maf pipe perfectly.Later, I took the new parts to work so I could do the install there. Besides doing design in CAD, performing finite element analysis and optimization, part of my job is manufacturing components. We have our own machine shop, which is one of three on my university's engineering campus; I was able to do it there- big thanks to my Supervisor Amer for allowing me to do so and to my coworker Jairo for his advice! I used the vertical bandsaw to cut off the resonator on the factory intake piece and I used the horizontal bandsaw to cut about 4.3" from the new intake elbow. This all took about an hour. I then installed everything and went home. However, I was not done yet. I drilled the hole on the maf adapter a little larger using a unibit and deburred it so I could put in the IAT grommet and fit the sensor in. I also used a cut off wheel to reshape the maf adapter plate to the same shape as my maf pipe's flange. The last touch was to take some aluminum bars that come with the intake elbow and drill one out to accept a bolt. I then bolted them together to make a bracket to hold up my intake so it isn't just sitting there. I used the rubber grommet that came on the maf adapter under the bracket for some vibration absorption. I still need to replace the hose from the egr to the intake (I used clear air line to mate them) and have my cousin powder coat the entire intake (maf pipe and all) in mirror black so that it really pops. Really big thanks to Rusty for all his help! I could not have done it without ya bro:waytogo:

 

Here is an overall view of the engine bay, I removed the bracket for the intake resonator shortly after taking this picture.




Here is the bracket I made for the intake, it uses one of the bolts and one of the mounting points for the stock airbox.




You can see where the IAT sensor plugs in at the bottom, out of sight from above.




My washer cap is coming soon thanks to yota.coma!

 

10-23-2011 I got a Morimoto Mini D2S kit from The Retrofit Source on a group buy. I spent the weekend working on fitting the projectors into a new set of 7x6 headlights I got on ebay. I am going to be vacuum-forming Lexan lenses for it soon, my vacuum table is almost done. Pictures coming soon!


11-06-2011 Sorry for the delay, here is the progress so far!







I tightened down the projectors into the housing using the supplied nut and alignment plate. I then dipped a nail in ink and stuck it through the mounting holes on the projectors to mark the housings. I then drilled the housings at these points and passed 10-32 screws through the holes to use as mounts for the projector. Since they are marked with the projector aligned, they will provide alignment after the center is bored out.





I removed the lenses to bore the holes for the projector mounts. When I tried to re install the lenses, they had to be put on by force. This was caused by the lens mounting holes being drilled in the incorrect locations. I remedied this by boring out the holes on the lens mount such that they would align to the holes in the projector housing without having to be forced into position.



I then cut a stainless tube I had lying around so that it would fit against the housing. I used this to properly transfer pressure between the bolt/washer and the light housing.







In order for the projectors to sit far back enough in the housing to where I could put the headlight lens back on, I had to bore the opening out and cut grooves for the corners of the projector to sit in using a dremel.



I then poured plaster into one of the headlight lenses to create a mold. When the plaster expands as it cures, it cracks the glass, so be sure to do this only if you're really set on making Lexan lenses.








I will have updates up sometime next weekend so stay tuned for more.

 

11-16-2011 Updates for the lights are coming soon, in the meantime just wanted to mention that I just bought a Miata and will likely be starting another project vehicle. For the most part though, I'm just excited to have a backup car for when the truck needs downtime to get mods done.

Link to my Miata build here http://clubroadster.net/vb_forum/89...ning-booger-into-something-worth-looking.html

 

11-18-2011 Alright, as promised, here are pictures of my progress on the headlights:


I started by placing masking tape over the back of the openings I made. Be sure to do this with the projectors on! I then added fiberglass on the back, followed by a coat of JB Weld for good measure once the fiberglass dried. Once the JB Weld cured, I rubber coated the back to cover it all up. Unnecessary? Yes, but still a good idea as it reinforces the weakened housings and will hold up to years of vibration and shock.












I then masked off the shrouds and painted the silver parts with Rust Reformer as it dries a perfect flat black and holds up to alot of abuse.






With this complete, I removed the lenses from the projectors and taped off the back of the projectors to keep them from getting coated in dust. I then cut the screws short so they would not interfere with the shrouds.






I then removed the projectors and wrapped the solenoid wires in electrical tape followed by heat shrink wrap (I shrunk the wrap only after putting on the plastic clip)






I test fit the shrouds and found that they needed trimming to sit low enough on the projector. Specifically because of the ridges on the bottom of the projector.






The projectors then went back into the headlight housings and I test fit the shrouds






I then test fit the lights

Before



After




I also added the nice bixenon logos that come with them




Here is a crappy picture of the light output, this is without adjustment of any kind

 

11-23-2011 I had a wiring issue with the HIDs where they were in high beam mode when I turned the lights on and high beam mode did nothing. Chris D suggested I switch the blue and orange pins on the input plug. When I did this, I thought the fuse went out again but I realized that I heard the solenoids go "clack" when I turned the lights on so I put the high beam on and had low beam mode activate. I then simply switched which clip goes to the solenoids and which goes to the ballasts. So if you purchase a Morimoto kit for your truck, you want to switch the blue and orange pins such that the blue is on the top of the input plug and you want the blue/black plug connected to the ballasts. The orange/black goes to the solenoids.


12-04-2011 I've had these on the truck for almost a couple of weeks now but final exams and projects have kept me from posting them up. Here are the completed lights.




12-07-2011 Pictures of the lights on the truck. This is in broad daylight yet they can still blaze up a camera. Night and output pictures to come soon!




Note: This glare is actually invisible in real life, it is due to camera exposure. Even at night, all the human eye sees is a bright dot in center of each light, no blinding of other drivers (plus the two glowing dots look awesome!)

 

4-14-2012 Installed a new radio in the truck, Pioneer unit with Bluetooth. The phone calls and music streaming are amazingly clear. This unit also powers my Pioneer door speakers properly so they sound much better.




The holes lined up perfectly with the factory Tacoma brackets!




No dash kit needed




It has several variations of every color, I was able to find a blue that matched my interior lighting perfectly




I used one of the empty plates on the dash to mount the Bluetooth mic. Unless you have acrylic glue, I suggest you drill it and put a screw through it. Neither two part epoxy nor superglue worked for this.

 

4-27-2012
Alright, center console, e-fan, and Morimoto XB LED angel eyes coming soon.

5-27-2012 Here is a pic of the angel eyes in action. These things are intense in broad daylight, and impossible to photograph at night without playing with the camera's settings (and knowing what you're doing). I have enough expensive hobbies so I'm trying to avoid learning about photography. Got these from theretrofitsource, it's a simple install with just two wires. I tapped into the power for the corner lights for them and finished everything with heatshrink wrap.

 

7-20-2012 My truck is currently at my neighbor's paint shop being completely repainted inside and out. They are also welding in a new panel on the driver's side and undercoating the bottom of the bed before putting it back on. Completed pics to come soon

 

8-01-2012 It's back, and fresher than ever! I wish it would stay that way and never get scratched!

 

9-05-2012 DIY water/meth injection coming soon!


10-21-2012 I have water/methanol injection up and running on my truck. I used instructions I got from the "do it yourself water alcohol injection" section at turbomirage.com. My system uses the more affordable Shurflo 8000 series pump and the smaller of the two McMaster nozzles he recommends. It also uses the factory washer reservoir for a clean install. The IAT sensor is installed downstream of the nozzle so it picks up the change in temperature. Removing the IAT from its old location on the maf adapter also allowed me to push the filter back an inch, such that it no longer contacts the plug for my headlight.


Here is the pump mounted under the intake. Disregard my ultra-dirty K&N filter, cleaning that is next on my list- although I may just replace it with an Amsoil filter.




My switch for triggering the spray




New location for IAT




As usual, I used heat-shrink wrap on all the connections




Nozzle

 

6-26-2013 Got the rear disc conversion off Alcarrillo(Customtacos member). Refresh and installation coming soon.


6-30-2013 Here are the SSBC two piston calipers for the conversion. I will be in serious need of a front upgrade once these are installed rofl. I plan to start by stripping them down and painting them with a fresh coat of either mirror black or yellow, that's right, yellow!

 

7-05-2013 For those of you who were curious about the shorty antenna. $12 at Pep Boys and threads on with the supplied bolt. A little over priced for what it is, but the visual improvement is huge.





I have had the truck sitting for a while until I got around to making a new left rear bracket for my seat so I could level it perfectly. It was worth the wait, the seat bolsters are much more effective now that the seat is actually upright. Funny how being in school forces you to put up with stuff like that for years.





My welding technique is improving too

 

7-06-2013 Took some aircraft stripper to the brake calipers. They look much better without the bad paint. Apparently, they had been painted red, and then black. . . right over the red. I've gone with a nicer metallic orange/copper.







I'm going to have to buy new lines for these since the lines they came with are bad.

 

Here's the metallic orange. I'll hopefully clearcoat the outer portion of each caliper this weekend. I'm allowing them to bake in the sun every afternoon.

 

7-11-2013 Got four new Pioneer speakers. All four are 6.75," the rears have built-in tweeters and built-in crossovers. The fronts have separate tweeters and crossovers. I already mounted the rears, just waiting on free time and some daylight to do the fronts.




Stock vs Pioneer




For those who think you have to remove all the panels out back in the extended cabs. . . you don't. Just use a thin, flat head to pry on the side of the speaker covers and they will pop out. The factory speaker cones look like they were woven from cardboard.




The new basalt and aramid cones look fresh. No wiring is needed for the rears, the wires can be pulled off the old speakers and they slide right onto the spades on the new speakers.

 

I managed to get the front speakers in. I cut the door panels inside the pockets in order to put the crossovers inside. Wish I had found a better way to tuck them into the door instead- I may do that next week and then seal the panels off. It's not visible anyhow as you have to look into the door pockets. I forgot to take pics of the speakers in the door, but will do so next time. Here are the tweeters:


These just barely clear the dash as they are bigger than the previous ones.




I also sealed off the openings in my doors using this roofing stuff I got at Lowes. I put some inside as well to dampen vibration from the outer panel.

 

Here are the door speakers




I put the crossovers inside the door and velcro'ed them to the panel. Seemed to hold pretty well, but I'll see how it holds up. Ended up putting them inside the doors




Overall, the new speakers sound great. I have nice, crisp highs and much deeper bass than what I had before- all with less distortion. Sealing the doors off definitely contributed to the bass. When I build the sub box in the rear, I'll likely use the flashing again. Thinking of building a concealed box for a 10" sub out back.

 

9-29-13 I took my truck out to the auto-x yesterday, as I was not keen on using my freshly painted Miata out there. Also, I was dying to run my truck just to see how it would do. I was surprised to find that it was not the least bit tail happy and actually had amazing traction/grip around the whole course. It also has way better torque and response than the Miata. The only issue was the fact that so much steering input is required. If I can get a rack that lets the truck turn more with less input, I will be devouring S2000s! Unfortunately, I was negligent about filming so I do not have videos of my truck in action- save for one launch which was a tad lame since I shifted too early on that run.

 

On my other runs, I stayed in first until after hitting the first turn and going into the slalom. For whatever reason, I shifted into second before the turn, making the video less epic.