MatosTaco's Build Thread

1-07-2019

Decided I was tired of pushing my ridiculously heavy clutch pedal and holding it down every single time I start the truck. So, I took the truck out of gear, crawled into the floor space and pushed down the button under the clutch pedal. Once I saw that I could turn the truck on whilst pushing this in, I knew what to bypass. In the Miata world, we have the bypass clip from Flying Miata that installs here and holds the button down. I considered designing one for the Tacoma, but I realized a simple zip tie would do the trick. Here is the completed bypass, it works like a charm.


DISCLAIMER: This modification makes it possible for you or someone else to inadvertently start the vehicle in gear. This could result in the vehicle crashing into people, buildings, pets, other vehicles, etc and result in serious injury or death. If you perform this mod, you do so at your own risk. I take ZERO responsibility for any harm or damage done by your vehicle and/or to your vehicle as a result of this mod.

CM0 by Jose Matos, on Flickr


On another note, how annoying is it that car manufacturers don't paint the metal that goes under the dash just because it isn't visible? I don't care if I can't see it, I DON'T want RUST in my car smh!

 

1-26-2019

My starter ended up sticking the other day. When I tried to turn the truck on, it was slow to crank and for whatever reason I turned it back to off and then on again. Well, the truck came on but my starter kept spinning. Turned it off and it kept spinning... so I disconnected the negative from the battery. At this point, I thought I had ruined the ignition cylinder, so I pulled it out and connected the negative again- starter kept spinning.


At this point, I realized it had to be the starter solenoid, so I fully disconnected the battery and pulled the starter. Sure enough, the shaft that holds the little sprocket and turns the flywheel was stuck out. I spun it and it popped back in. Put the starter back in and reassembled my dash. Truck started right up with no drama.


So, if this happens to you, just disconnect the battery and then pull the starter. Don't end up doing this lol, (even if it's easy for me at this point)

M11 by Jose Matos, on Flickr

 

April 2020
With the coronavirus keeping everyone at home, I have finally found time to edit video and post on Youtube again! Here's the latest on the truck, I finally got around to installing the backup camera a few months back and I edited the video recently.

 

I also had to change my alternator since my previous battery decided to spew acid on it and cook it. A true shame, since that alternator had been running faithfully since 1996 (it was the original alternator). I made sure to replace it with an identical unit from Denso (OEM Toyota).
https://youtu.be/61IgjcKr0R4

 

I needed a better work space for modding and maintaining my Tacoma, Miata, and Camaro, so it was time to remodel the garage. I made good use of the free time generated by corona virus/kept myself from going nuts at home, by doing new lights, paint, and epoxy floors.


Here is part one

https://youtu.be/kIN4KzA1luA

 

Here is part 2 of my garage remodel. It consists of prep work needed before painting, such as floor etching and removal of appliances.

https://youtu.be/EM9mj0AQLDc

 

Here is part 3 of my garage remodel. I got the masking done and began the process of painting, touchups, mounting the attic frame, and coating the floors with 1 part epoxy.

https://youtu.be/08UabuAIEtk

 

Here is part 4 of my garage remodel.


https://youtu.be/E01OV8DT_kY

 

Quick update on next phases for the garage project

 

Got my tool drawer and 3D Printer in. Back in business!

 

01-2021
Back to working on the old Taco! My LCE short shifter blew out the shift bushings...again... so I got a new set of Dorman bushings from AutoZone. That felt great for a while, until it didn't... went right back to feeling like a chicken wing when you break it at the joint. I had also grown sick and tired of the one piece short shifter amplifying the transmission noise into that cabin. Talk about tinnitus inducing! To remedy this, I ordered a URD shifter that simply extends the stock 2 piece shifter and it includes a thicker shift plate (about 1/4" thicker than the LCE one) so throws are even shorter. The stock shifter also helps to quiet the interior, sits the shift knob further away from the radio/closer to the steering wheel, and doesn't tend to blow out shift bushings. For now, I am using a new set of Dorman bushings, but I have some Delrin ones coming from Marlin Crawler. I realized that my issue with the previous Marlin Crawler bushings was that the o-ring from the bottom of the factory shifter had remained in the shift neck. This didn't allow the new bushing to sit down far enough. The URD short shifter feels great as is with the squishy Dorman bushing, I can't wait to try it with the Marlin Crawler!

20210119_174735 by Jose, on Flickr

There are a couple of notes I would like to make about this install. One is that the extender did not slide smoothly over my factory shift ball and I had to beat the shifter into a 2x4 to get the adapter to seat.

20210119_182515 by Jose, on Flickr


The other is that this setup uses Allen head bolts and there is no way you are getting a wrench and Allen adapter in the back two bolts. This is because they sit behind the shifter cutout and the gap between the top of the bolt and the metal of the transmission tunnel is not large enough. I remedied this by turning the Allen adapter with a 1/4" flat wrench. These bolts are to be torqued to 13 lb-ft per the instructions, you should be able to apply that with your bare hands.

20210120_132027 by Jose, on Flickr

20210120_132800 by Jose, on Flickr


Final result, and yes, I need a new shift knob!

20210122_103433 by Jose, on Flickr

 

Video of me putting the short shifter in

 

Here is the install of the Marlin Crawler shift seat

 

As promised, here is the video of my impressions after driving the truck with the short shifter

 

Did a quick video with some highlights of upcoming mods. I think you guys will like this stuff. Check it out below:

 

Started to accumulate more parts for my 8.8 axle swap. Unfortunately, the supply shortages that are appearing as of late are hindering my progress. In particular, it is hard to get 8.8 replacement clutches and I really don't want to use the ones in my diff as I don't know how good they are. I will have to measure each pack and see how thick it is. I suppose if they are above the 0.635" minimum thickness, I can leave them in. Stock is 0.645" and performance ones (what I wanted) are >0.655" and would result in a tighter differential. So far, I have the 8.8, Evo 8 rear rotors, ZL1 rear Brembo calipers, and Permatex Gear Oil Gasket maker. The diff fluid, friction modifier, and u-bolts are on their way.

 

The pile of new parts so far:
20210317_174947 by Jose, on Flickr

 

Hats off! I just came across your build and this is awesome! I love mini truck builds... in fact, I’m looking to find a SCSB automatic 2wd 1st Gen myself and start a project truck with my son.

The work you have done is great, hands down some of the best driveway craftsmanship I’ve ever seen. Definitely subscribed to this thread. When you going to start the 2JZ swap? Lol! Thank you for documenting this all!!

~cheers!

 

Thank you, I appreciate that! There is definitely a lot more to come. I want this one to handle well and be as light as possible, so no 2JZ for it, but I have considered purchasing another one for this very purpose- we'll see what happens.

 

The parts keep piling up for the 8.8 swap. I took the diff apart earlier and checked the thickness of the clutch pack, it is only at 0.604," so I will definitely have to order a new set.
by Jose, on Flickr