Matthew's Jade Green 4x4 Conversion. (and other upgrades)

So while my steering issues i hope are behind me one of the upgrades planned is the Tundra Brake Upgrade. I did a bunch of research a few months ago, test fit a caliper and decided that my rims would work. So i then started putting together a kit for when i had time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8zy-j4UBUo&t=2048s

I ended up using the following parts.
- Napa rebuilt 13WL calipers. SE 3264 & SE 3263.
- Factory Toyota rotors. 43512-0C011.
- Factory Toyota Brake Pads. 04465-AZ100.
- Factory Toyota Shim set. 04945-0C030.
- Wheelers Offroad black rear Brake lines. .
- Wheelers Offroad black front Brake lines. I looked at buying a used set of calipers and rebuilding them. By the time you buy the rebuild parts the cost was the same from a rebuild house so i opted to just buy them already done. I also read about the banjo bolt not fitting so i test fitted that ahead of time to make sure i was good. New bolts came with the brake line kit.

I knew i had some trimming of the back plate to do and was not sure i had time to finish today so i test fitted everything first. Glad i did as things did not go smooth.

Even though i built up these spindles 2 months ago the old rotor would not come off. Spend more time then i liked tapping with a hammer and wood block to get them off. I will be applying some anti seize next time.




Test fitting the caliper on the passenger side went fine. The Drivers side needed some trimming. I did not have to trim much because if you recall these were 4Runner back plates and i had to trim the heck out of them to put the Tacoma brakes on. Hence they were already close to fitting the Tundra. I was not super precise with the trimming.





OK. So lets get the rotors out and test fit. First the obligatory comparison.




So far so good. Now lets mount a rim. Get things all tight and.... The wheel does not spin. Oh man...

I am running American Racing Outlaw II 16" rims. I had test fitted with a caliper from another vendor and thought they fit but these do not fit at all. OK... Lets check both front calipers. Neither fit and one is WAY worse than the other. Why???





OK. To be fair one of my rims i bought after the fact to have 5 matching rims and be able to rotate my spare tire. I always suspected it had a different offset. It does. That is why it has a much worse fit. So what do i do? My options are:

- Sell the Tacoma and buy a Tundra to match the brakes.
- Give up on the Tundra brake idea. Sell the parts off.
- Buy new rims.
- Space off the rims to get room.
- Grind the rims.
- Grind the caliper.

So none are good choices. Off i went to research what i thought was the only real option. I know others have done it and i know there is lots of "warning" with it but in the end i said the heck with it and got the grinder out. My Calipers are now a little lighter. Not much. Just a little.



Rims fit now and i am comfortable with what i removed. Saw images of other who removed more than that.

Took everything back off and put my Tacoma brakes back on. The actual swap will take place later when i have time to bleed the brakes. At least now i know it will be a fast swap.

Truck is back at Pep Boys getting its third alignment in 40 miles. They must really love me. Lifetime Alignment baby!!

 

The tundra brakes are one of my favorite upgrades! Hope you like them once they’re on for good

 

Oh my... What have i done??





With the help of @BartMaster1234 i have started to figure out how to engage the 4WD switches in the transfer case to illuminate the 4WD indicator in the dash. Tyler did a really trick job as shown in the "4x4 El Taco Diablo" thread by @Uphillshunter (Link below. Post 219)

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...in-stick-and-shift-kit-and-b-s.562405/page-11

Tyler made his own lamp indicators because his truck did not have those areas indicated. Too much for me and my truck has a locker and ABS so i already use those indicators. Hat's off to Tyler though for going above and Beyond. I just want to know when i am not in 2H. Tyler shared with me his schematic (Below right) and from that i made my own plan. (Below left)

Thanks Tyler for letting me post your work and your continued help.



My plan is a simple "if any of the three switches on the transfer case is tripped then illuminate the 4WD indicator" plan. I ordered connectors from BM Motorsports. Thank you to @mechanicjon for the help there.

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/products_id/3515

You also need this crimp.

https://www.amazon.com/Fullfun-SN-4...1.25+crimper&qid=1556638621&s=gateway&sr=8-37

Tyler suggesting that my truck may already be wired for this so i had to figure out what i had so i could plot my course. Apart came my dash with the hopes of finding the right wire. I got nowhere but confused...

From the Toyota Schematic i knew sort of what to look for. (Again thank you Tyler)
- C10 indicator on the dash pod
- A Green/black wire from the pod into the engine compartment.
- Connector IK2 on the drivers side kick panel
- Connector EB2 in the engine compartment.

Lets go have a look.



That dash came apart easy. I used a post by @turbodb to learn how to pull the dash apart.

https://adventuretaco.com/removing-the-dash-trim/

There is C10! No dash bulb. Have to locate one. I am sure that is a dealer thing.



Trace it back to the right most connector. Right when installed. Here i have the pod turned around so we are on the left. Note the bottom trace at the lamp is common on the dash pod. That is your high or 12V side. The trace shown here is your ground and it goes up to the top of the pod to the fourth pin from the left.



Looking at the connector and there is the Green/Black wire i was looking for. Fourth from the right.



Now, where is IK2. I am looking for pin #23.

You would think that would mean a connector with at least 23 pins and that confused me. There is a connector on the drivers side kick panel with that many wires. It is a special cam over latch style and had two wires that are Green. One with a black stripe so bingo.




Well, I could not get the wire to ring out. A quick google search and i found that IK2 may be the other connectors in the area. It also had a Green/Black wire but and it does not have 23 pins. The one with the connector out in the below image.



This is where my trail ended. I honestly do not think this is the right connector and appeal for help.

I can ring out from the dash pod to the fixed side of this connector. Once i plug the connector back in and ring out the opposite side of teh same connector it is dead. It is like the pins do not connect. Also this wire bundle goes into the door. It does not make any sense at all to me and thus i think i am in the wrong place.

OK. How about EB2. Just find it and i a golden. It is supposed to be in the engine compartment right above the differential. I looked all over the place and nothing. No my truck is not originally 4WD so possibly my harness does not have EB2 but then where does the Green/Black wire go then?

Time was short so i put it all back together and went off to look for help. I really do not want to splice into the harness. That wire goes somewhere. Anyone know where?

Lastly i learned that your turn signals will not work if you forget to plug in your emergency flasher switch as you put the dash back together.

 

You are totally overthinking this. Trying to trace the wire outside the dash harness is like finding a needle in the haystack.

Do what I did, cut the Green/Black wire at the dash connector and just run your own wiring. Save yourself all the hassle.

 

Your truck is a 2004? The wire is different from a 2000.
See attached PDF.

 

Ha! Story of my life. I tend to overthink everything...

Thank you for the schematic. I will see if i can find the end of the wire.

If i can't find a clean way to splice in then i will cut the Green/Black wire and just tap in.

Thank you guys.

 

Did some more digging this AM. Got the correct schematic from mechanicjon and that helped a lot. Thank you @mechanicjon.

IK2 on my truck is above the glove box. Pin #3. The large connector on the far right.



I also found at the ECM connector E6 pin #13.




Both of these ring out for the Green/Black wire. I will ring them out against the dash pod when i take it back apart.

My only puzzle right now is where EB3 is located. I have a Green/Black wire goinh into IK2 and back out again. From there it should go to EB3 which is above the differential. From there it goes to the ADD actuator.

My belief is that it goes out the Engine harness and splices off from behind the intake manifold but that is theory right now.

Since my truck was not 4WD originally it is also possible that the engine harness was different and i will not locate EB3 because it does not exist.






I think this is what it looks like. Pretty large so i am not sure how i would miss it.






Now, the question then if EB3 does not exist on a 2WD harness is then where does the Green/Black wire go when it leaves IK2???

 

The wire probably goes to a connection at the firewall. I have a engine harness from an auto v6 4x4 4runner. It's an older model but i'll look and see were it goes to. I'm pretty sure it goes into the cab thru the engine harness on the right side.

 

This is an oldet harness bit there's no plug on this one. But the wire does run thru the passenger side firewall. Transmission plugs:

 

Thank you Jon.

I too figure it goes out the passenger side fire wall through that big bellow covered harness you show in your second picture. Based on that and figuring this would follow the same route as the transmission harness i chose a point to look.

Right next to the Oil filler cap the transmission harness makes an "L" turn against a bracket going up to the timing belt cover. There you can get some free cable once released from the bracket to look. Remove the heat shrink and plastic tube cover that easily comes off.



Peal back the layers and reveal the wires.



And... No Joy. Green/Red, Light Green & solid Green. Also a Blue/Black that at first i thought... but nope. Wire does not go through here.

That would suggest then that it peals off or is terminated up behind and under the intake manifold.

And then the face palm moment. Looking at the "Electrical Wiring Routing" i posed just above it hit me. Take a look again now with green highlights. The manual says EB3 is above the differential so...




I think this is where i need to look but we are talking about taking the intake manifold off. Do i want to do that? Well i already admitted i overthink things so yes!!!

So here is the thing. I'll go look but if i do not find the connector up in there and find the end of the wire then i am splicing inside the engine compartment and that does not sound like a good idea to me. I think it would be better to splice in up near IK2 inside the cab and run down the console through the shifter area.

Anyways. It is dark now so if i do not go to the Air Show tomorrow then i will take a look.

 

Let me throw another curve ball at you. I don't think a J-shift was offered in a 2004... Soooooo the diagram I posted would be wrong sorry. Here's the one for a button shift.

 

Also if you look here there's 2 green/black's one to ecu the other to ADD actuator.

 

That's not green and black?


Need someone with a 2004 or 03 4x4 to look at their wires and routing.

 

No. Optical illusion. When i posted that i also double looked but that is engine blackness between wires. I will dig into the other info you posted tomorrow.

 

Ok. I went the last mile. There is no connector on my truck.





I did not bother to open up the harness. I know the Green/Black wire goes into that area of the harness but even if i found the end i do not want to splice in the engine compartment.

I have a few request out to guys with 04 4x4's to see if i can learn what they have but i suspect the harness is just different and either EB3 exists as the manual suggests or the wires just follow the transmission harness down as the harness mechanicjon posted above indicates.

Short of a revelation i will head towards a splice likely above the glove box near IK2.
I also still have to open up my dash again to install the light bulb too. I will tackle that when i can and make up a complete harness to install.

 

Good lord man... why are you going through so much trouble to find the other end of the wire when all you have to do is cut the wire at the dash connector and run your own wire?

 

Ha. Your not the only person to ask that.

The simple truth is the Engineer in me needed to understand. It is just who i am. I have also restored more than one vintage car and hacked wire harnesses are something that just bug me. They never lead to easy diagnosis of issues down the road so i wanted to avoid that.

I am done though. Time to move in.

Matthew

 

Started building my harness over the weekend. No images but have the prototype together confirming all the lengths.

The one thing i had to decide is where to tie into ground. Under the dash somewhere or back to the chassis. Easy way is to the chassis but are there any obvious places under the dash?

Some fun from my co-worker. Full suspension keyboard. I found a pair or Old Man Emu 2881's down in San Diego. Co-worker lives down there and picked them up for me. This was my desk this AM when i go to work. Nice!

 

I just tied my ground into a bare metal surface chassis. In my case I used the central control stack mount.

 

You guys are really going to make me take my dash apart and do this upgrade aren't you?