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Max Coupler inverted

Discussion in 'Towing' started by TacoDell, May 3, 2012.

  1. May 3, 2012 at 11:23 PM
    #1
    TacoDell

    TacoDell [OP] Truck ~n~ Tow

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    anyone else hitching up using this method ?
    Concerns ? issues ?

    My only concern thus far...
    is that the primary nut isn't pinned or safety wired

    Otherwise... it seems to be functioning as it does upright

    it does seem more of a pita to hitch the bushing end...
    coming up from the underside, to pin thru the saddle bracket




    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. May 5, 2012 at 3:43 AM
    #2
    BUZZCUT

    BUZZCUT Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't drive it like that at all for the reason you stated.
     
  3. May 5, 2012 at 4:23 AM
    #3
    KenLyns

    KenLyns Lord of War

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    The primary nut lacking a cotter pin is a concern in both orientations, actually. The risk isn't increased by running the coupler inverted.

    Only real difference is now the primary bolt takes all the tongue weight, so it's loaded in tension and in shear. Shouldn't be a problem since bolts typically have greater strength in tension, and the trailer's tongue weight is a small fraction of the trailer's total weight.

    Are there greased/teflon washers between the hitch and coupler? If there are, they need to be moved under the bolt head.
     
  4. May 5, 2012 at 5:33 PM
    #4
    TacoDell

    TacoDell [OP] Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Thanks for your comment...

    I thought a lot about the tension and shear factors of the bolt threads.
    but if I remembered correctly... during a conversation with Chris of Quamco
    that he had told me the bolt should hold, when inverting the coupler.

    Some one else mention that the hitch I was using looked too thick at the tongue of that...
    and that the nut should thread down so that a few threads extend
    above the upper plain of the nut.
    So I might look into replacing the bolt with a longer one...
    if I can locate one.

    The nylon/delrin washers currently seat on both the upper and lower plate
    of the "U" bracket.

    Here's how it's laid out... top to bottom

    nut
    metal washer
    Drop hitch tongue
    metal washer
    nylon/delrin washer
    "U" bracket plate
    nylon/delrin washer
    metal washer
    bolt

    Currently the "U" bracket pivots between the nylon/delrin washers
    and the metal washers they seat against.
    The bolt does not turn with the assembly

    You think that stack should be assembled differently ?
     
  5. May 5, 2012 at 6:04 PM
    #5
    KenLyns

    KenLyns Lord of War

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    Stack is assembled logically. Agreed with the longer bolt. Should have ~ 3 threads showing.

    You can get aircraft-grade bolts with a drilled shank and matching castellated nut. They are expensive but you only need one of each. For example 1/2" dia bolts:

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an8.php
     
  6. May 5, 2012 at 9:07 PM
    #6
    TacoDell

    TacoDell [OP] Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Hey thanks for the link...
    I'll call them tomorrow... (er... monday)
    hopefully they sell individual pieces to their customers ?
     
  7. May 6, 2012 at 3:15 AM
    #7
    KenLyns

    KenLyns Lord of War

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  8. May 7, 2012 at 3:56 PM
    #8
    TacoDell

    TacoDell [OP] Truck ~n~ Tow

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    I think this bolt is closer to 7/8" diameter
    though... I have yet to measure it

    in trying top come up with ways to protect the coupler better on a trail environment

    I was mulling this idea over in my head... and thought to share
    I'll refer to it as a "tail dragger" ... for lack of better terminology
    The plate stock would be thicker then the paint picture depicts... maybe somewhat longer

    Was just looking for other opinions as to whether this might offer a form of protection or nay ?

    [​IMG]
     
  9. May 8, 2012 at 12:52 PM
    #9
    Gregman

    Gregman Well-Known Member

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    Why not just flip it over? It looks like you would be at about the same height and you would just have the nut hanging down there which wouldn't be a show stopper if it got bashed on something.
     
  10. May 8, 2012 at 4:49 PM
    #10
    TacoDell

    TacoDell [OP] Truck ~n~ Tow

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    It may look that way in a quick glance...
    But it's not as simple as it looks

    You need to take into account that the coupler height at the pin accounts for 2.5"

    I have to use a 5.25" drop ball mount hitch in order to be remotely close to what you see in the pics above.

    If I raised the trailer with a spring under axle mod
    it would solve one problem... but create others.

    Then I'd have to purchase a new wider axle, wheels, tires
    lose/modify my parking brake, mod the fenders... and the list goes on.

    This trailer was built/intended for trail use...
    the higher COG wouldn't be advantageous

    nah... I don't think that expense is worth the trouble.
    Especially when my consideration was to maintain it's originality...
    Or at least with the ability to be returned to it's original config. easily.
     
  11. May 19, 2012 at 3:12 PM
    #11
    TacoDell

    TacoDell [OP] Truck ~n~ Tow

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    Hopefully pics will better describe..
    or a least entertain this thread.


    2" drop, upright coupler... (coupler rises 2.5" at the pin OC )
    ~trailer sits tongue high~

    [​IMG]


    5.25" drop upright coupler...
    ~I don't like that the drop sits this low, but trailer is closer to level~

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    0" rise, Inverted coupler... ( the coupler's pin drops 2.5" OC )
    ~inverted is nearly level as the 5.25 drop, with less anchor~

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    ^ I'm trying to get as close to a level trailer as I can...
    but minimize clearance or obstruction issues.
    These pictures reflect an unloaded trailer and hauler...
    Some added weight will likely bring it closer to level.
    ^ pictures above show without full load/weight to the trailer/hauler

    Coupler modification...
    ~to offer the coupler more entry/departure angle~

    before...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    after...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Close up view of the couplers bolt/washer assembly...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    90* stop/bump and misc...
    ~note - spare tire/bumper is the stop/bump~

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    misc views...
    ~possibly I was bored~


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Sep 21, 2016 at 12:48 PM
    #12
    opteron

    opteron Well-Known Member

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    :tumbleweed:

    resurrecting an old thread. read through your build on the trailer at ttora. Really looks nice. This weekend I'm looking at a m100 trailer it looks real rough built in the 1940's and he doesn't have any other information. Any way just trying to figure out costs. Do you mind posting how much you spend on building your trailer? thanks,

    Trying to gather ideas on total investment or best to buy a built one already. I really like the idea building something to my liking vs. settling on something I might change later. thanks in advance.
     
  13. Sep 21, 2016 at 1:27 PM
    #13
    TacoDell

    TacoDell [OP] Truck ~n~ Tow

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    I never really added up what my material and hardware costs were...
    as most of it was my free labor, blood, sweat and tears.

    But I might think I spent near another $ 1,500 - $ 2,000
    aside from the original trailer purchase/investment.

    Doubt I'd sell it for less then $ 3,500 as it sits.

    the G503 forum is the best place to find/net accurate information regarding the WWII 1/4 ton trailers.
    There is a dedicated folder specific to these trailer types.

    I have a build thread there as well.

    regards...
    ...Dell

    ps: feel free to ask any questions you like
    If I know, I will share what I know and have an experience with
    or redirect you to the G503 forum for a better answer.
     
  14. Sep 21, 2016 at 4:22 PM
    #14
    opteron

    opteron Well-Known Member

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    I may have to low ball him on the trailer from the pics the seller sent me it may require some serious cash.

    Thanks for the offer and link.
    :thumbsup:
     
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