Maxliner USA Fog Light Install

I wanted to install fog lights in my Tacoma 4WD regular cab but was having trouble finding a thread that spelled out how to do it. I hope this helps any other Tacoma owners that are in the same situation. It was easy if you just take your time. (I'm not sure exactly how long it took me because I was taking pictures while I did it & I tried to figure out some things that hopefully you won't have to because of this thread.)

I bought this Maxliner USA OEM replacement fog light kit on ebay for $99.99 (shipping included) from Kramer America in Florida. Bought Tuesday & delivered Friday. Nice!

 

The kit for the Ta-coma (sic) includes: top row; OEM style fog lights, OEM style switch, relay box. Bottom row; instructions, switch wiring harness (for inside cab), zip ties (I replaced with heavier duty zip ties), connector, screws, (didn't use these last 2 items) & main wiring harness (for under the hood).

 

The following pictures show where each wire end connects to their respective components...

The last picture shows the connection between the switch harness (inside cab) & main wiring harness (under hood).

 

First thing, disconnect the NEGATIVE from the battery using a 10 mm wrench.

 

Getting under the truck & from inside the front bumper, remove the 2 phillips head screws from the "dummy fog light" using a stubby screwdriver. The 1st picture shows the driver's side where you can see 2 silver screws on the left side in this picture. (The passenger side will be the exact opposite.) SAVE THE SCREWS. Once these are removed, the "dummy" will pivot out of the slots holding the other side of the "dummy". Reverse the process to install your new fog lights.
HINT: I used Permatex BLUE Threadlocker on all screws I used. It protects screws against vibrating out. Make sure you use the BLUE. Red is permanent and meant for screws that you will never remove for any reason.

 

Next, install the relay box. The picture shows where I installed it on the inner fender. This photo is taken looking down from just in back of the driver's side headlight and in front of the battery. There is an existing hole that I used to bolt it in. I found this location gave me enough wire to reach the battery and the fog lights with the main wiring harness.

Route the wires from the main wiring harness through the undercarriage of the truck and connect the fog lights, then the relay box. Using a 10 mm wrench, loosen the bolt holding POSITIVE terminal on the battery and attach the red wire of the main wiring harness to the battery. Tighten the terminal again. Attach the black ground wire on the main wiring harness to the body. I hope the photo shows these 2 wires near the relay box clearly.

Don't bother zip tying the wires into place until you're done with everything in case you need to make adjustments.

 

This next step is easiest with 2 people with one person in the engine compartment and one person inside the cab under the dash. The one remaining wire from the main wiring harness needs to be fished through to the cab.

There is a grommet in the firewall where most of the existing wires go through. I pulled to edge of it aside just enough to push this wire through. The person in side the cab should see the wire coming through in a spot behind the parking brake pedal (on automatic tranny trucks). (Shining a flashlight through the hole from the engine compartment will help them locate it too!) Have your helper pull the wire through while you hold the grommet aside.

 

Remove the little drop down compartment that's in the lower dash, to the left of the steering wheel. Reach behind the dash and remove one the of the "dummy" switch hole covers. (I have a base 4WD Regular Cab so I had an available spot in the lower set of buttons/switches.) Using the switch wiring harness, connect the new switch (note the orientation) to the harness and push into the dash until it clicks in.

Attach the main wiring harness that you fished through the firewall to the switch wiring harness.

Looking at the fuse box under the dash that was behind the little drop down that you removed, you'll see there is an open spot in the middle of the top row. This is LIVE and works only when the lights and ignition are turned on so this is a perfect power source. Strip the insulation of the end of the red wire from the switch wiring harness and insert into here using a blade type connector.

 

Finally reconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Tuck away any excess wire and zip tie any loose wire so it is safe from hot surfaces, moving parts or other dangers.

To make sure no water could make its way around where I fished the wire through the firewall I put some automotive-type silicone sealant. Also, think about where you want your wires to run so they will be out of the way before you make any connections. I'm sorry I couldn't post pictures that would clearly illustrate where I tucked wires away, but I'm sure you'll find something that works.

I hope this helps anyone out there that wants to attempt this. If there's anything I can explain beyond that to help, PM me and I'll do what I can.

By the way, I love them. They work great!

 

What a Great write up! will this kit that you bought off ebay work for the older style bumpers, i have an 09 reg cab. also, did the actual lights fit into the dummy holes no problem or did you have to mock up a bracket to have it sit in there? any pics of how the lights mount on the inside of the bumper?

 

The kit I bought is only for the 2012-13 Tacoma front end, but the same company sells them for your 2009. (They're $10 less than the 2012-13 too!) I didn't have to alter ANYTHING for these to fit. They're sold as OEM replacements and they fit and look stock, including the on/off switch in the cab.

These photos show from inside the bumper 1. Driver's side 2. Passenger side and 3. close up of installed. Its raining so these pictures look a little wet.

 

those are perfect pics! thank you for replying and posting that! those lights clean up the front of your truck so nicely! did you happen to have the ebay link from the store that you bought the kit from?

 

This is the link I bought from, but it gives you the contact info to find out about lights for your 2009.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fog-Lights-...2012|Model:Tacoma&hash=item1c32937d74&vxp=mtr

 

Nice write up...Marked for a future mod on my 2013

 

Hi there. I have purchased the same fog lights from Maxliner, after install, mine does not work. I followed the instruction packet that came with it as well as your write up. One thing that it does not describe is the ground wire from the inside the cabin. I just tapped it on a metal with a screw. The fog lights switch is on but the lights are not. Any input will be much appreciated. Thank you!

 

I just installed the same kit. Did you connect the red wire from the in cab harness? I ran it to the battery so I can run the fogs independent of headlights and ignition. I think instructions call for them to be tapped in to the headlights.

 

There are two red wires, one inside the cabin and the other connected to the battery terminal. I am not quite sure with the black/ground wire inside to the cabin to be tapped onto, but I found a metal bar and I grounded it. Any more ideas? Thank you..

 

I grounded the in cab ground to the 10mm dash support bolt to the left of where the switch went. Both of the red wires went to battery +. You could put the in cab red wire to an ignition switched fuse in the fuse box if you didn't want it always hot on the battery.

 

Here's where I grounded on the bottom of the steering column using an existing ground screw.

 

If you run the hot lead (red wire) independent of the ignition you run the chance of forgetting they're on when shutting off the truck, then coming back to a dead battery. I tapped into a connection in the fuse box under the dash that requires the ignition and at least the parking lights be on.

Check this photo for the connection. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/at...760-maxliner-usa-fog-light-install-fog-17.jpg

Add an in-line fuse if you tap directly into the fuse box, like I did. Use the lower contact like in the picture. The upper contact isn't hot.