May have killed my taco..penny for your thoughts

It does start my truck though

 

The starter settled down and started working properly . Still gonna rebuild the oem one, of course. When I did the starter wiring found corroded spots I cleaned up on the lug.

happy to report successful alternator and starter swap today! No more click when i turn the key! Big 7 1/0 harness got dropped off today with the mail . No amplifier yet. Happy , good evening fellas . Maybe detail the engine bay tomorrow to prep for the big 7 install. If I do , I’ll take before and after photos , because it’s atrocious under the hood.

 

Me and my buddy both have components needing rebuilt, so we gonna road trip to take our motors in to this local shop and have rebuilt . Fellas she’s driving great. Still getting stupid aftermarket starter excess noises but when I get the oem unit rebuilt, it’s going right back on immediately. When I get home gonna start cleaning my engine bay. Got some fancy products at the O’Reilly store to try out on the rubbers and non painted plastics. Supposed to work on tires also.
My house smells like autozone.
Pics in the morning of my work today in the engine bay, and when you inspect my work do pick the engine bay components apart, if you see something out of whack or needing looked at. I value and appreciate all opinions in regard to making my rig better.
Ta’ta.
Doug

 

Forgot to take the before shot. Really like this product, really hate the price.
Found one vac hose that’s cracked on both ends and needs replaced. Doubt it’s long enough to cut the ends. Jabbed it on a little better for the time being. Gonna go to walleyworld tomorrow and get a wire ripped dremel head for cleaning the aluminum. It’s in pretty rough shape. That product I used did the fender flares nicely, as well as the side walls of the tires. Pretty versatile bottle of sauce. Hoping for the amplifier tomorrow , and I’ll hook up and test for parasitic draw. Also dumped a can of sea foam high mileage into gas tank and filled up tonight. I’ll be treating the crank case with it as well.
Requested a quote from Toyota dealer for clutch system replacement along with rear main seal. I directed them to quote me for new flywheel and bolts, pivot fork, rear main seal, pressure plate, clutch plate pilot bearing throw out bearing and any other wearable items accessible when separating engine and transmission. It’s an r150f manual.
Also had them quote timing belt water pump all pulleys and tensioners associated with that system , and thermostat on a separate quote. Can’t wait to be horrified by these quotes. Good evening

 

That air intake tube just refuses to look good. I tried

 

From what I’ve seen here you can for sure tackle the timing belt replacement. Maybe plan a weekend of downtime just to be safe. Check out the Timmy the Toolman and/or Faye Hadley videos for instruction. Not familiar with the clutch (I’ve got an auto) but how hard could it be?!

 

Stealership's going to quote you $4k + for parts and labor. Find an independent shop and or tackle some of those repairs yourself.

 

I sure do appreciate the vote of confidence, I’ve done one timing belt water pump job in my life so far, and I had experienced help. It’s a little intimidating for some reason.
The clutch is out of my element and I don’t have 10’ of extensions and transmission jack, it’s getting done by a shop for sure.
249k on the odometer , gonna see if I can find what mileage I had the timing belt done last time. Should be in my papers. It can stand to go longer I know , especially since it’s non interference and not used for daily driver.
I will get some other shop quotes , good advice. When I had rear main seal done, it was solely due to transmission fluid leak between engine and transmission and just rms and resealed was almost 2k, done by the dealer. It hurt .

 

Non interferance and not a dd... IMO just pull back the belt cover and chexk the condition. Your fovused well on the nessasary stuff right now. Why add unnecessary difficulty?

 

you’re right . It’s a non issue at the moment . That throw out bearing is P1 now.

 

Based on all the stuff you've done here, I have no doubt you could handle dropping the trans and doing all that clutch stuff yourself. You can pick up a Pittsburgh 800lb transmission jack for under $200 bucks when on sale at HF, and $20 worth of extensions to get it done. You probably have all the other tools you need. You could get away with that smaller 450lb scissor jack that they offer, but for an extra $50 bucks the tilt, raise and lowering operations of the larger floor jack is well worth it, especially trying to get it lined up re-install. $200 in new tools, plus your new parts, you're probably around $5-600 versus a few grand from a dealer or shop. I do recommend having a friend help put it back in.

 

I appreciate it Bryan, fellas. Ill think about it, tacotu3, I watched the videos you suggested last night, I’m sure I could get the timing water pump and accessories done myself. Still can’t wait to get these two quotes from Toyota. Throw those guesses up see who gets closest! Price is right rules

 

Buy yourself a AAA membership. If You dont have one stakeout a shop within 7 miles if your cheap or within a hundred miles mid tier AAA and try to R&R the rear seal and tranny work yourself, the local shop is for back up plan. Me and another person started and finished an 86 4runner clutch during pregame and 1st half of the superbowl a few years back. You got all the time in the world not your daily driver then if you cant do it call your vetted shop and AAA and send it on its way if it's too much for you. Worth a shot. Don't hack it and get a service manual you'll be ok. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

 

Do the gen1's have throw out/trans nose galling issues like gen2 6 speeds? My son has been threw the ringer with his. Been in and out several times with the lastest throw out bearing fix. This time it had the trans rebuilt and nose machined/changwd to steel modification. The aluminum shaft is replaced with steel.

 

I hope you have deeeeeeeeeeep Pockets. I have no doubt the quote from the Dealership will just about give you a heart attack.

 

When I got my '03 with then 86k miles the trans had a whirring sound. The dealer, a spcialized Trans shop, and my regular mechanic all said throw-out bearing. The truck came with a 30 day power train warranty and always a sucker for free stuff I pushed for the trans rebuild. Dealer quoted $1600 (2017) and trans shop $1300. Went with trans shop and paid out of pocket for new clutch parts since he was in there.

Turns out there was no issue with ThO bearing. The gears and bearnngs int he trans were perfect. Still had factory paint on them. He rebuilt the whole thing and and there was no change (some of these trans just make whirring sound). But at least I got a new clutch for the price of parts...

 

Do you have a garage? If not, that's the only reason I'd consider having a shop mess with the transmission (manual transmission, that is). Since you have the company car, you can easily take your time with the repair.

Transmission jack + parts + pizza and beer for the weekend with a buddy, and you're only in the hole for a few (several?) hundred vs the $3-5000 the shops will come back with.

 

Unfortunately I don’t have a garage, yet.
If my radio is on I can’t hear the TO bearing. Original clutch in the thing.
I’ll probably build a garage this summer, since I actually enjoy wrenching.
Just got the 2021 Camry home , picked it up in St. Louis. It’s a nice smooth ride.
No word from the dealer yet. Not sure what I’ll work on today , maybe clean off the front breathers , looks like they burped some gear oil in my engine bay. I’ll probably pull the heater valve control and check it out. 162$ part from the dealer if i replace it.

 

interesting information. . It shifts fine , on occasion at a stop light itll be tough to get into 1st from a dead stop.

 

Did that fix his issues?