May have killed my taco..penny for your thoughts

That's great your not hydolocked. Factory or dealer installed Toyota alarms suck in or out of water, trash. Kinda pointing toward compound problems ECU AND gremlins sucks. I wouldnt expect anybody at the Toyota dealership to help with 20yr old alarm problems. Not sure where your truck is from originally but search TW for RS3200 alarm problems or dealer installed gulf states alarm problems. I had the dealer about 6 years ago look at an 01 celica gts about alarm immobilizing car it was a waste of cash they were clueless. Good luck man.

 

Bought it in Utah but it vin search found it was purchased in New Hampshire .
Surely this truck doesn’t have a fancy alarm that shuts the whole thing down, does it?

 

Not sure check it out. My truck had the gulf states toyota dealer alarm w/keyless entry left me stranded a few times till I removed that POS last year.



You may not have that one but I think the rs3200 came in some trucks your ym. Anybody else know???

 

I had to screen shot it. I feel like a moron how the hell do you post a link from a previous thread, anybody help lol

Edit: I'm going to search I'll figure it out

 

99% of inquiries or questions about problems about 1st gen trucks have been addressed search search search it's all there on TW.

 

The only thing I can confirm is it’s keyless entry and if I push the red button horn lights go buck wild . As far as what it does beyond that, I just don’t know. I’ve never set it off by any means.

 

If it has an aftermarket alarm it isn't that difficult to disconnect it from the factory wiring (usually near the ignition switch) and see if it will start.

It can look like a wiring mess but it actually isn't. The factory wiring is easy to identify as well as anything aftermarket that was added in later. Essentially you're looking for ignition switch wiring that was cut and routed into the alarm module. Simply cut the wiring that goes to the alarm and return the factory wiring to stock. I'm not talking about 10-20 wires, it's usually more like 1 or 2

 

I promise it doesn’t have any aftermarket alarm system on it, whatever it does have is factory

 

Usually, the alarm has an ignition kill switch component to it. Usually, an ignition wire is intercepted under the steering column and the alarm box wire connections are "inserted" between the wire. Uh... I don't think the one that the aftermarkets use are for the coils (denying spark), but for the ECM Fuel fuse/relay (denying fuel). If the alarm box is ... underwater, it's not going to be able to click the relay over to allow current flow.

Does the vehicle crank with the key? I know it will turn over, but don't know if you're talking about putting a socket on the crank or they did it via key turn.

 

Just because you don't have a push-button FOB attached to the key ring doesn't mean there isn't some old CarToys alarm under the dash that hasn't worked in 15 years.

It's worth a look. If you see any type of piggy-back splice connectors, the type that "cut" into the insulation so you can easily tap a wire, then something is going on. Do you have a horn mounted under the hood somewhere with wires going into the firewall?

 

I believe they were using the key to crank . And it has spark with the new icm they put in.
I lied I’m 641$ in the hole at this point. That part was 400+$

 

Just confirmed it was cranking over with the key. Just won’t fire up.

 

I’m gonna get it towed to nearest Toyota dealer unless someone here has a better alternative.
Not many options but it sounds like this sucker is close to running again. Wish it wasn’t 9.5hours away from me! So painful

 

Here’s a recap of how it sat in the water …bout 11.5-12hours it sat like this

 

Fellas bear with me, the truck is very far removed from me at the moment and I can’t simply go verify things under the hood. I believe I’m going to figure out how to get it home in the current state it’s in. As much as I would like to just pay the dealer to get it running and drive it home…I’m concerned that they will also throw in the towel and charge me out the wazoo

 

I had my cousins honda civic that was in a similar situation, flooded inside though, a fire hydrant on the street was knock over and the spray came down on the roof and filled the interior throught the sunroof to the seat bottoms. It sat at the dealer for 3 days before they totaled it, I had it towed to my place and immedialty pulled the battery and all of the interior, sealts, carpet etc and pulled all of the electronic control units, put them in rice for a few days. Opened up everything and it looked pretty good. Reinstall all of the electronic componenet and she fired right up. I ran the heater on full for 2 hours, then the AC and alternated that process. It was still running 10 years later with no electrical gremlins. I am thinking that because I got too it as soon as I did I maganed to save her. Of course it was a salvage title but it only cost him $1200 to buy it back from the insurance company.

It is doable...

 

This part shocks me....
In San Diego, most people do stupid things when it rains hard, mission valley floods, etc....
Theyre not accustom to flooding, driving in heavy rains...
In my career ive probably seen 50 hydrolocked vehicles due to people trying to drive through flooded roads...
People trying to play stupid & get warranty repairs, etc...
Usually if youre rpm's are somewhat up & your engine ingests water, it will at least bend a piston connecting rod.
Maybe you got lucky & engine stalled out in-time to save the chaos......

 

As soon as I went into the ditch I killed the engine. They changed the oil a few times at the shop it’s been at. They did report it had some wawa in the pan, but I didn’t attempt to crank it after the ordeal . Had it towed to the shop

 

an experience tech with a trained ear, would have done a cranking rhythm test, easiest way to figure out of the engine is internally hurt....
Versus wasting customers money with a compression test...
I didnt read all this, but if you have spark & fuel........
If you had water in the oil pan, & vehicle was running at a good clip, could have ingested water, bent rods & simultaneously cleared majority of the water through the valves before engine came to a halt....
Have had vehicles in my stall with damaged engines that still cranked but wouldn't start...
Boroscope the intake manifold & lower runners are full of water....

If the air intake is on the passenger side ide guess water ingestion into the engine, more than anything else...
compression test, if you dont have a good ear for this sort of stuff...


Also get a fuel sample...

 

assuming nobody checked compression?
or made sure we dot have water in the tank somehow?