May want to change the oil WAY before 10k miles on your new tacoma.

Thanks for the detailed opinions!
Truth is, and this is crucial, we have no clue if any of this is right. I design things for a living (and I build things at home so I am proudly a tinkerer) and "duty cycle" and loads are the words that determine longevity.
A point to make is, how you drive and use your truck should determine the OCI.
Let's say I put on wheels that extend the CL by a foot on each side. Those additional loads caused by the offset will definitely shorten the wheel bearing life but... by how much?
So I change my oil every 5K instead of 10K. How much does it extend the life? We don't know!
I would think the engineers at Toyota have done some serious FEA and determined the engine wear versus actual metal fatigue to come up with the OCI intervals. Being good engineers means keeping people safe, and a part wearing out does not have the same catastrophic effect as a fatigue failure. Same goes for brakes and everything else.
Lastly, when I write I try to remember my audience lol and keep it general and simple.

 

Same here. My first oil change is being done right now at 4,700 miles.

Working from home for a few months offset by a few outings with the paddleboards and kayaks kind of evened out at my usual annual mileage.

 

Wait, I mean no disrespect, but those “good engineers means keeping people safe” the same type as those that designed the Takata air bags? Because if that’s the case, my poor truck…

I need that drink NOW!

 

Anecdotal evidence carries too much weight for many.

 

This is why I won’t buy used without records

 

Gentle reminder for those looking for actual info vs random banter.

This thread is about the initial oil change not the subsequents. plenty of info on why it may be beneficial to do earlier than the 10k initial oil change.

elevated metals are present at 3000, 6000, 7000 miles at similar levels. 20x higher than after 10,000 mile subsequent oil changes.

 

everything reading so far says nothing beneficial to do it before that 10k. unless you tow heavy etc

 

I remember the fram orange can of death hysteria.

 

The engineers realized the airbag problem years before. Ownership put the lid on it.
No engineer I know says "let's go design some marginal shit today that can maim or kill somebody."

 

You really think people care after 18pages

 

Oh boy, I can’t decide which is worst. The fact that the engineers designed something so catastrophically dangerous in the first place without all the data points and rushed it into market, or that they took so long to correct it…Still…

Now on second thought, maybe I should go change my oil at 3k. Anybody not ok with that?

I need another drink Mr bartender, make it a double please

 

Get off my lawn!

 

This maybe a typical recommendation from an engine re-builder:

“Draining the oil and changing the filter removes harmful wear particles and residual assembly contaminants before they can cause damage. Following up with a second oil change at low miles or after a limited number of hours of operation is also a common practice to make sure most of the contaminants are kept out of the engine.”

Factory stock engines are machined differently and may have different duty cycle than the typically rebuild high performance engines, but the same principles as it pertains to break in debris should still apply.

If it didn’t, we would not have the type post were an OP finds such said debris.
Moreover, it is enough data to convince me, that better safe than sorry is the WTG.

 

@maxmk8 welcome to TW where all threads are treated ‘equally’...

 

Patronizing much?

I guess you missed the sarcasm in my post...I'll be a bit more blunt and to the point. Regardless of the manufacturer's recommendation - even if it were a 20K mile OCI - there's no harm in changing your oil every 5K (well, at least that we know of) and really no reason (other than maybe trying to get more votes for the douche of the month club) to ridicule anyone who does. Someone here tried to factor in the 1-2 seconds that new oil takes to make its' way to lubricating the components as a possible negative effect of frequent changes. I dunno - not an engineer. However, unless someone is writing the checks for that guy's oil changes...who cares? Good on him!

It's not a matter of arguing the validity of the science, or the intentions of anyone posting his oil changes because he wants a pat on the back. Yeah - changing the oil is pretty easy, so is replacing a light bulb, and there are hundreds of posts - threads even, literally about changing the light bulbs on the ceiling of your cab. Those "no-skill" posts must make you foam at the mouth. That juuuuuust might be what forums are for my man - posting everything from a new sticker to engine rebuilds.

Where race engines are concerned...well, unless you're a backyard dirt track guy, or a 1/4 mile fast & furious hero...they're kinda designed to make it to the finish line and are pretty much worthless after that. To quote a guy who knows a little bit about racing - "The perfect racing car is the one that breaks down right after the finishing line" -Enzo Ferrari. So it might not be such a good idea to try & prove your point with track cars. For those that ARE weekend warriors? Yeah - the oil is changed after every track weekend. Brake & trans fluid maybe every other track day. Bottom line - to each his own. Change it at the OCI, at 1/2 the OCI, or trade it in with molasses in the pistons - not anyone's business (unless of course you buy the molasses jar. But "buyer beware" is a whole other ball game.

Thanks for sharing your opinion though, you DO make valid points about the manufacturer's specs & recommendations. After all- that's what this is for!!!

 

Well, I know this. I'm 65 and have been driving since I was 15. So 50 years. I've owned dozens of rigs in those 50 years.
I've never ever once thought that changing the oil/filter was a 'bad thing' ...
Then again ... WTF do I know...

 

Same thing here. My 2020 (2.7) also says 6.2 quarts for oil/filter change. And I thought that what auto manufacturer would make it such and odd-ball amount? They've always gone out of their way to make it an even, say, 5 or 6 quarts.
I'm glad I looked here (TW) first before I did my first oil/filter change. 6 quarts filled it perfectly to the top hole on the dipstick.
I suppose that the extra 1/4 quart of oil wouldn't be any big deal, but it made me feel better knowing I didn't over-fill.
The only thing I can think is that, there's probably several different filters that will fit and work, so maybe one filter is a bit bigger/longer than another... ? IDK.

 

Actually, my new Taco is the first rig I've ever owned that doesn't have an actual oil psi gauge on it. Even my wife's fairly new Forester has one. I'm going on 50 years experience on dozens of different rigs. Even after a oil/filter change, it only takes 1-2 seconds for the oil psi gauge to spring to life vs. what would be a normal cold-start under any other condition. And I assume that's because it takes that extra second or two for the filter to fill up. I'll assume what was true 50 years ago, is still true today.
I will say though that I don't like not having an actual oil/charging gauge on the dash. I like having actual gauges for gas/temp/oil/charging... I'd be more than willing to forgo other bell's and whistle's for an actual full 'set' of gauges.

 

I absolutely agree with you. A complete set of actual gauges should be a standard.