May want to change the oil WAY before 10k miles on your new tacoma.

Mobil 1 0W20 is often at Costco for ~$30 for 6 quarts. An OEM filter is about $5. It takes me about 45 minutes to change the oil on my Taco, if I take my time. I did the first one at ~800 miles and then at 4000-4500 mile intervals. Hoping to keep the truck a while.

 

I do this too. I also put it in to carfax too.
I wonder with the Toyota app do the records stay with the vehicle even self entered ones. I found out with carfax when you sell the vehicle and remove it from your profile it deletes all self entered records.

 

one reason why I print out maintenance entries that I place in the Toyota app

 

Nah, 10k for me easy peasy, 235k miles now

 

Page 31 reminder.

THIS IS ABOUT THE INITIAL OIL CHANGE ON A NEW TRUCK

 

Not necessary

 

It’s an oil thread
They alaways go astray
You got your answers/opinions early on

 

My last Toyota was a 1st Gen Tundra, at 437K miles I hadn't changed the oil in maybe 80K or more, just kept adding a pour or two everything time it seems a little low.

If if this brings out the rage in you, you are welcome, it's sarcasm and not actually, true. Get over it!

 

Lots of rage out there... I'm gonna get a cold one....

 

I have a book with it all written out too.
on thing I noticed with carfax is sometimes when a shop puts in an entry it is vague. Like they might just say "vehicle serviced" when the actual service might have been something complex like say a timing belt service. cant trust them to be actuate either.

 

I’ve posted many times about why I do my first oil changes very early for this exact reason. It’s above most on here. Great post though. I actually did my first OCI at 250 miles then again at 600 miles. All that metal in the oil equals microscopic scoring. Gets to get that shit out asap.

 

It's Friday, so I won't tell you what you don't know. Have a great weekend!

 

Lol

 

It depends on what you mean by “engine failure.” On one end there’s catastrophic breakdown, and on the other hand there’s coked up, stuck rings leading to cylinder wall wear, oil consumption, blow-by, loss of power and mpg, and slow agonizing death.

The latter is more likely to occur earlier with extended drain intervals. That’s just a fact - the longer an oil is in use, the more prone to forming deposits it becomes. Whether fouled rings occur before another problem condemns the vehicle is open to many factors already explored in the post you responded to.

I personally think that people running 10k intervals should stick with only the very highest quality oil and filters and change early if they push the engine in an interval.

While I agree that 5k is probably the best course for most people, your truck will not make 800,000 miles. You’ll be lucky to get half that.

 

Synthetic every 10k doesn't matter what brand your engine will last way longer than you will keep the vehicle

 

You have a 2010 with the 4.0 that doesn’t have direct injection or take 0w20.

With the 2gr-fks, I don’t know. DI is harder on oil, and I’ve seen UOAs clearly showing it has been degraded in fewer than 10k miles. Also, 0w20 doesn’t leave an HTHS cushion for fuel dilution, which again is more common with DI.

It may be possible that modified trucks driven hard in tough conditions using certain 0w20 for 10k intervals could end up with coked cylinders or worn bearings earlier than they otherwise would if other variables were friendlier.

 

In other words, two things are different between the 4.0 and 3.5: the 3.5 engine is harder on oil, and the specified oil has less margin of safety. Most 0w20s have an HTHS value at or below 2.8 cP. Increased wear can occur around 2.6-2.7 cP. it doesn’t take unrealistic fuel dilution to get to those values.

These variables are different than on the previous v6s in Tacomas. It doesn’t mean the 3.5 cannot do 10k intervals, but it does mean that there is a higher chance of shear, degradation, and fuel dilution to cause increased wear depending on many variables.

Anyone pushing to 10k on the third gen’s 3.5 engine should validate that their chosen oil can handle the interval given the driving habits, climate, their particular engine, and typical load by using UOAs. Choosing an oil that exceeds GF-6a and/or has a thicker operating viscosity and higher HTHS than 0w20 can increase the chances of safe 10k intervals.

Blanket statements that say 10k is always appropriate for every engine technology and every oil and every driving style and every load and every climate, etc. are inaccurate.

 

Nah I'll stand by 10k changes, any brand synthetic and the engine will last longer than you own your vehicle

 

That is more likely for you because your engine lacks direct injection and uses 5w30.

A part of my suggestion is simply to match what you are doing.

 

Good to hear your opinion.
Keep in mind, there are opinions that differ.
According to the OWNERS MANUAL, I’ll stay with the 5k oci it calls for.