Maybe another TOB thread?

Hey all - Apologies for making another throwout bearing thread. I think I likely need to replace mine and will end up doing the clutch when I'm at it, but I wanted to make sure I'm going after the right thing before I start ordering parts. I have spent a lot of time going through the many clutch / TOB threads on TW, and nothing I've found outlines my exact situation.

Truck is a 2007 v6 6spd with 180k miles on it. I have owned the truck for ~30k miles. It has always had the TOB chirp, but I didn't know what it was until I started researching with this recent noise. Situation is as follows:

- I start the truck and the truck chirps with the typical TOB chirp unless clutch pedal is engaged
- I drive the truck for ~15 minutes. Truck no longer chirps as mentioned above, however it changes to a squeal type noise as shown in the below video when in gear (clutch pedal not engaged).
- Clutch doesn't slip. Drives fine. I don't get kicked out of gear or anything unusual like that, there's just this noise which can only be heard when driving very slow (otherwise road noise drowns it out).

Any thoughts on this? Am I in the right to think I need to replace the TOB and should just do the clutch while I'm at it? Is there anything else it could be?

Thank you and happy new year!

 

TOB can go bad and chirp at 100k.

I installed a CM HydroTOB which I still daily. A couple people have had theirs leak for some reason.
Someone here made a DIY on making a Tilton unit fit. I would have considered trying that if I'd known about the DIY back then.

While in there, probably not a bad idea to do flywheel resurface and clutch friction disc + pressure plate replacement
I'm curious to try URD heavyweight flywheel + upgraded clutch but IDK when they'll be in stock again.

 

Is that sound I’m hearing indicative of a failing TOB or could it be something else?

 

It’s not failing. I drove mine almost 200,000 miles chirping. Even after I installed a new clutch and TOB(aisin stock replacement) the chirp came back within 5-6k miles. For me it was mostly just annoying at drive throughs and banks but never an actual issue.

 

What would that squeal be then?

 

My first TOB started to make the same noise at about 40k. When you replace it, it will start chirping again at some point... I got the oversized TOB with stainless sleeve from URD and although the chirp has came back the squeal has not.

 

So you intentionally spent 8+hrs taking out a poorly-designed TOB,
to install in it's place the same exact poorly-designed TOB?

Interesting

Oh yeah they totally never damage the bellhousing quill/snout, no pictures of that happening to people exist

That's why people upgrade it, not replace it

The URD is the same design as stock but larger.
That is why yours is squealing. It is no longer the latest up to date solution to this problem.
You essentially replaced a small jug of spoiled milk with a larger jug of spoiled milk

 

I'm not arguing against that at all man lol... URD kit I got for free at the time so figured I might as well use it.

Fortunately the transmission is insanely easy to R&R.

 

i mean if it’s that important to you, you can come lay on my grass and put one in. I’ll hand you tools and supervise with a nice cold beverage.

 

I replaced clutch and TOB when I did mine. The squealing that "returned" turned out to be my carrier bearing so maybe check on that.

 

Thank you for the feedback. I will check the carrier, however this only happens when in gear rather than just rolling so I'm guessing it's not that. I also don't have any vibration when driving.

I will plan on replacing the clutch (likely with stock) and the TOB (likely the sleeved URD version as the hydraulic one intimidates me) when the weather warms up a bit. January in Maine is not the most exciting time to do a garage clutch replacement :/

Thanks again. And if anyone stumbles upon this thread, this looks like a fantastic clutch / TOB replacement how-to: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lightweight-flywheel-install-write-up.577836/

 

Some of my "best" memories are working on my jeep comanche in the middle of winter on the dirt floor of my parents barn.

BT

I thought the same thing. My squeal was mostly during acceleration. I ruled out driveshaft components due to no noise while coasting, but lo and behold it was that. Worth a look at least.

 

Very interesting. Was there a way you were able to positively identify the carrier being the source of the noise, or was it more a process of elimination as you had already replaced the TOB?

 

I started moving down the drivetrain after TOB replacement and stumbled into it.

 

it's safe to assume that if the truck is 10yr/100k mi that the carrier bearing is worn

 

Roger that. Pretty short money and pretty straight forward replacement too. Common place to do the u-joints while you're at it? I'm religious about keeping mine greased.

 

I mean I dunno. I bought the Ford Ranger IEDLS (Inland Empire Driveline) polyurethane yellow one. I've heard they can last 3 years. Not sure if true.
From a member on here for the original group buy price. Am planning to install it when I get the time.
Will honestly probably just wing it and pull up the instructions at the same time I start taking apart the truck.
Or will at least give them a look to make sure I have the required tools. Like if I need those special pliers for U-joint clips, I may already have those.
Because my rubber donut on the stock one hangs pretty low which probably means worn out.

Some propshafts have up to 5 zerk/grease fittings for the u joints.
Not sure if there is a way to check for excessive play to know if the joint itself must be replaced, or if it's early enough to save it with greasing.
Some say to grease every oil change but having done OCI's every 5k it's never really fun to break out a grease gun and be doing it that often.
Someone with a Tacoma not on this forum probably isn't doing that, so 5k may be excessive. As opposed to 10, 15, 20k, etc.
I have Red n Tacky #2 and a quick connect spring loaded coupler on my grease gun but it doesn't always fit everywhere and sometimes I've just used a regular end.
Co-worker with a 3rd gen T4R also up there in miles that may not have had the zerks greased, did end up replacing all of his U-joints, I believe with Spicer parts.
Didn't look like a 5min job but didn't look impossible either.