Maybe I'll work on my..... something.

Furnace in my trailer went out last night. Woke up this morning to 46* (I leave the bathroom vent open and one window cracked open to keep airflow and reduce humidity inside). Spent about 15 min trying to get it to start back up before I had to get ready for work.
Rather than disconnecting the gas line and disassembling the entire furnace to access the control panel, I just cut the side of it out to give me direct access. I need to get my oscillating cutter to cut more so I can access all the switches then I'll make a removable cover panel. Issue is either the control panel or sail switch as the fan runs but the gas regulator isn't getting any power.
At least I have the Buddy heater that my folks got me for a birthday gift a few years back, so I can warm up my bathroom to take a shower.
I'll go ahead and order a Dinosaur control panel as these control panels are known to be shut, and I'll check the sail switch probably tomorrow or maybe this weekend.

 

Heater is back to working after replacing some parts. Had a triple failure. The thermostat wire broke where it connects to the resistor, the over-limit switch failed, and the sail switch went. Got everything replaced and have heat again. I hotwired it until the parts arrived.
I got some peg board panels mounted on the wall to hold some stuff. No, it doesn't get left in the trailer. All guns have spots to transport in the truck every time I am not at the trailer. The space between the rifles is designated for my 37mm and suppressors. 15-22 will get a mount below the SBR.

 

Start of the heavy duty log splitter trailer I'm building for my father. 3x2x.188 steel tubing. 4x4 deck with 4ft tongue and full back brace. Tongue will get angled supports once I get the axle located where it needs to be, then the extra length of the tongue will get a Fulton folding adapter (I'm thinking it'll end up around 2ft fold). All I have left to get is the engine (debating between a Briggs & Stratton CR950 or a Predator 212) and hoses.
Not going to be able to do much work on it until March, but it is started.

 

Today is the start of my 2+ month break. Got the folder mocked up, currently welding on the brackets for the deck boards (using 2x10s). Have the hinge pin plate welded up, just need to weld the plate on as well as the plates that I have the pipes for the jacks. I'll put those pictures up after I get them on.
Once I get all that stuff on, I'll put on the splitter/deck/engine/hydraulic tank/and some other stuff to get the center of balance figured out and adjust the axle location to get the tongue weight correct.
I am still trying to find some heavy duty single axle fenders.

 

Great to see progress. Somehow your notifications turned off.

Looking forward to more updates.

 

Not much to update. Haven't been able to do much because I have either been working dark to dark, parked 10ft from trucks driving by on a dirt road, or just too dang lazy. I got a lot of compliments from people driving by my folks place on my idea of building a deck on the back of the cargo conversion.

 

Hangers tacked on to start getting weight/balance figured out. I have a 1000lb crane scale to help me out. Problem I found is that the perches on the axle are slightly offset from each other. So the hangers are dead on even, but the axle is slightly canted.
I'll get a bolt with a larger head to replace the center pin. Then, I'll grind the head offset to allow it to shift to where I want it to be. That'll bring it even with how it needs to be. Waiting for UPS to drop off 5k rounds of 22LR, or I'd be down there right now working on it. Don't want them to say no one was home when delivery was attempted.
One picture note, tongue hinge is not tightened down which is why it is sitting weird. Just wanted to show where it hinges. I'll also add an A frame from the front hangers to the back of the hinge to strengthen it.
I'm using pipe weld jacks so I can pull them off and mount them to the deck for travel. By having the jacks, it can be leveled out and used without having to have it attached to the truck to prevent it from flipping.

 

The canted axle isn't ganna matter a bit. It's not like this thing is gonna see thousands of miles a year.

This gonna be the best built splitter frame west of the Mississippi.

 

Yeah, I know, but it'll annoy the heck out of me seeing it off angle when the fenders are mounted. Not that hard to fix.

 

Alright, got all the parts except the hoses and fenders. Set everything on the deck boards roughly where it will be and adjusted the location of the axles to get me 12% tongue weight. Got the hangers in their final position and made the A frame beams. Overkill, I know.
I don't like using my 110 welder for chassis components, and don't have my 220 anymore. So, I'll take it back over to my buddy's shop and get it welded up with his welder. Sometime next week if there is a break in the rain.
The angle iron is where the boards will be mounted using two 1/4" bolts at each support. I set them so the boards are 1/8" above the frame rails and with a 1" gap to help keep any water and debris from being held against the metal.
I'm glad I used the pipe mount jacks. Made it nice to flip it over and have it elevated a bit to work on.
Once it gets sandblasted and painted, I will use chassis sealant in all the open tube and make sure I get it to thoroughly coat the internal joints at the front of the A frame to help it last longer. I had thought about getting it galvanized.

 

House/dog sitting for my folks.
Got tired of cleaning up the mud the dogs were tracking in from where there was once grass. So, I put down about a foot (2yd total) of medium fir bark. Need to get 8 more bricks to finish the edge then I'll dump the last wheelbarrow of bark down.
I am going to have to pressure wash the deck, stairs, and walkway to get all the mud off. One of the few times my parents have actually pissed me off. They should and could have fixed the issue long ago. This will just be a temp fix.

 

Frame 97% welded (going to add filler plates on the back side of the A since the welder couldn't get in deep enough to weld the gap). Hangers fully welded. Tomorrow, I'll drill the holes for the deck boards and figure out how I want to do the wiring. Debating between running it along the side of the center beam with welded washers as hangers, or through the center beam and drill holes in the side to bring the wires out. Leaning more towards inside the beam.
Fenders should be here Friday. I'm debating between just welding them on or making them removable.

 

Didn't like the tongue on my 5x8 (misc use) trailer being nose high when hooked to the truck with a 2" drop hitch. So, I did a spring over swap on it. I'll go up in wheel/tire size at some point.

 

Should gone with my gut and gone with orange instead of blue. Blue matches the blue and black on the engine for the hydraulic pump, but orange would have looked better. Oh well, not my trailer and he said go with the blue.

First coat of Ford tractor blue.


Fenders will get painted black.
I am going to use a rag on a stick (basically a barrel mop) to paint the inside of the center beam and A frame.

 

I use the washer welded to the inside of the frame method all the time. I actually think it's more durable than snaking the wires in the frame. You can buy grommets that pop right in the washers to remove any worry of the wires chafing. It's a hell of a lot easier wiring the thing as well, also makes repairs much easier.

 

Are you going to use one of these? These are the cats ass!

RVGUARD 7 Way 8 Foot Trailer Cord

 

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I actually did a combination of wire running. I branched the wires for the side markers up front on the 4 way plug harness I had. I ran it through the center beam with one hole behind the first cross member and one infront of the rear one. Then, I have 2 welded washers on each side of the front and rear to hang the wires. To get the wires through the sides up front for the marker lights, I used a 1.5" hole saw to cut holes then welded in some heavy wall 1.5" tube. A bit overkill as it isn't a heavy load bearing spot, but it was easy to do.

For the wiring, I just used the 4 way. No brakes on it at the moment, but I may change my mind later. I am going to just use a small solar panel trickle charger for the starter battery.

The wiring you posted is the same type I used on both my camper and flatbed.

I flipped the frame over today and got any spots that I missed, I'll do another full coat tomorrow. I used the mop method to paint the inside of the center beam and as much of the A frame as I could. I'm not happy with the paint in the A frame as I couldn't get it done well. So. I will stand it up on end and dump some paint in it to get to the joint that couldn't be welded because of the angle. While it is standing and has a puddle of paint at the nose, it will make it a little easier to get it thoroughly painted inside.

The fenders, tail light guards, and the splitter are at the powder coater to get blasted and coated in hammered gloss black.

I had to use a hole saw to get the ledge off the inside of the outlet of the tank. It came with a small filter, but I wanted to use a bigger and better one, so it had to be modified. I also decided to relocate the level/temp guage, just need to get a couple nuts/bolts/gaskets.
Hoses and fittings are here, so it will be ready to assemble next week.
I am going to stamp a "VIN" onto a couple spots on the frame and splitter.

Side note: I am waiting for OR Parks and Rec to either finish my archeological review or pass 30 days since submittal. Once either of those happens, I am filing the CUP to start my private campground. Tomorrow, I will be drawing up the plot plan and renderings.
Going to start with one 15x30 gravel rv pad with a 200sqft deck (snagging the deck material from my folks when they replace theirs this yr) and one 200sqft "accessory" building.

 

Yanked the Mopar single wire alternator out of my car because it had a bad diode and would drain my battery. Did a Denso conversion on it. I like the Denso as it is more compact.
I did have to run additional wiring and used spark plug wire heat guards to protect the wires, but it wasn't too bad of a swap.

 

Diodes have been a pain in my ass as well.

How can a 30 cent part cause so much headache?