Maybe I'll work on my..... something.

Very nice.

 

It is now 8qt with enough forward capacity to keep the pickup in oil under acceleration. Total system capacity with remote filter will be about 10qt. While I was measuring capacity, I marked the dipstick at 7 and 8 quarts. I will flatten the dipstick a bit and then drill a couple marks.

 

First coat of por15. I'll give it 15 minutes to set up, then give it another coat. Great use for the free harbor freight tarp.

 

Almost like it was made that way....

What a PITA to get the windage tray in. Had to cut a hole in it to get the pick up tube support bracket through and bolted up. But, its all together. Letting the rtv set then I will torque the bolts and it will ve ready for oil.

 

Subbing to this shit so that I can read it when I get home!

 

Long term down side of the motor. $115 oil changes.

 

I guess my measuring funnel is off. Took 8qt according to the funnel when I built the pan, but actually took 9qt of oil. So it will be 9+3 when I put in the remote filter and oil cooler.
Joe Gibbs "Driven" HR1 15w-50.

 

Should be warm enough tomorrow or saturday to spray foam the inside of the Airstream. Everything is taped up and covered except the floor which will get tarped.

Furrion doesnt make a power outlet that I needed, so I made one. Took a SS tv inlet, and milled down an ABS pipe cap to fit. Then mounted the outlet into the housing with bolts going through the outlet and adapter ring.

 

Is that a 15 amp plug? Can you get the same thing in a 20 amp?

 

Yes. They wanted the 15 amp for the plug since it is an outside plug (under the awning next to the door). They just wanted something for plugging in a small radio or tablet when set up.

 

That makes sense. I was thinking the other way around. I thought feeding the entire trailer on 15 amps would be a bit much.

With as much work you have into this thing, I couldn't see you messing up on something like this.

 

Yeah. Power inlet (30 amp) and cable/sat tv inlet are over on the street side.

 

Amazing!

Is the trailer skin aluminum or stainless? regardless, how did you get the mirror finish?

 

It is aluminum. It looks good in the shade from 20 feet away. It is very far from where it "should" be. It has lots of swirl marks, but he didnt care, just wanted the corrosion from a camo net off. It basically just came down to metal buffing compound and an electric buffer.

 

It use to be an elk camp trailer. Even has a bullet hole in the back (use to have one in the front too) from where someone put a rifle on the tongue then it fell against the body and shot through the trailer.

 

After much measuring and remeasuring, I just ordered a new backhalf for my car. Rails are 2x4x.120" and a 38" outside rail width. Panhard bar instead of the diagonal link, Sensiset coil overs.

 

Got new wheels and tires in. 285/70/15 on 15x10 smoothies with 4 inch back spacing.
"Old" rears vs new

 

Im getting everything pulled apart and prepping to cut the floor out. I decided to test fit the Dakota seat, and was surprised with how perfect the width is. Ill raise it up 3" and that will give me a good height. It will be high enough to see, but low enough to not have that "sitting above the windows" look and for my head to clear the roll cage.

 

Figured out how I'm gonna go about the issue of the firewall. Since the motor will no longer fit in the firewall recess, I'm going to re-do it. I am going cut out the nice clean steel firewall leaving a 2.5 inch rim around the edges. This will give me a good place to weld a new recess in while making sure there is also enough room for me to put the roll cage bars through to the front end. The new recess will be 6 inches deep. I will re-use some of the firewall that gets cut out as pieces of the floor structure. The Dakota floor and firewall will get sectioned so I can use the seat mounts and the transmission tunnel.
However, since the firewall and front floor section are very strong, I am going to leave it in while I am working with the rest of the floor for some rigidity and a place to weld bracing bars.

Thinking I might go buy a tig welder....

 

Decided to see how the tires fit at the current axle width. Had to unbolt the fender to get the tire in. I am thinking I will move the rear end 2 inches back instead of 1 inch. But I wont decide for sure until I get the back half and rails under the body for a test fit.