Merits of a lightweight flywheel

Hey y'all just ordered my clutch Masters internal release bearing kit and was wondering has anyone paired this with a lightweight flywheel and performance clutch, and if so was there much of a difference and how bad was the drivability day to day? I have only ever ran stock clutches so really no experience to judge from.

 

Lets the engine rev up quicker, but also lets it rev down quicker.

Useful for some applications, but maybe not so much for a daily driven plebeian truck.

My guess is the engineers got pretty close to the best compromise for that with the stock flywheel.

 

I think most people on this forum lean towards a heavier flywheel for wheeling purposes.
I’ve done lightweight ones on other vehicles. Always a noticeable change.
Guess it just depends what your expectations with the truck are.

 

I have a lightweight flywheel in both of my tacos and i love it. The only real downfall is it is slightly more difficult to get going on inclines without stalling. But you get used to it pretty quick and everything after you’re moving is better imo. Makes the shifts slightly less harsh too if you dont release the clutch perfectly. Which also makes for better quick shifting if you like to drive spiritedly like myself.

i daily drive my 2.7L 5spd with 34s, 5.29s, LCE lightweight flywheel with a spec stage 2+. The light pedal feel makes it very nice to daily. In my 6spd ive run a URD stage 3 clutch and the pedal feel was wayyy heavier. Now Im running a URD lightweight flywheel and spec stage 2+ in my 6 speed and it has a nice and light pedal. Id definitely recommend it.

 

Also, id recommend doing a little research on some reviews of the CM bearing, there are reports of some less than stellar results

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-masters-hydro-bearing-failure.720672/

 

I have read that the bearing fix only works part of the time and also that people have had take it back apart and add shims. I live in Florida now but I'm moving to Tennessee in the middle of March definitely going to be wheeling in the mountains. I have the urd sleeve fix right now and it did okay for a while but I know it is not working correctly as a lot of times the clutch pedal is very tight and sometimes it doesn't want to engage or disengage fully. Sometimes I can be in reverse and press the clutch in and I'm still in Reverse I have to double clutch it to get it to grab correctly.

 

I meant that the bearing catches on the sleeve the stainless steel sleeve from urd

 

A flywheel, by definition, is an energy storage device. It stores kinetic energy in the form of angular momentum.

A lighter flywheel has a smaller moment of inertia and therefore will see a higher angular acceleration for a given applied load and also can't store as much energy as a heavier one.

In our cars/trucks/etc. it's used as a means to provide "smooth" power when the actual power source is not continuous (i.e. our reciprocating internal combustion engines). And if course the secondary purpose of acting as the clutch's mating surface in a manual car.

So a lighter flywheel will mean that a little less of your engine's power will be spent spinning up the flywheel, but also that the flywheel isn't as good at helping the engine provide continuous, "smooth" power once it's spun up. As a result you may experience more vibration while driving but may have slightly more power at the wheels while accelerating, but not more peak power at the wheels (and your engine will rev up a little faster).

In a truck I don't see the point, but it's really personal preference.

 

Agree with this. I wouldn't consider it for a second with a truck.

The other problem is fatigue, a standard flywheel will handle abuse better.

 

Not a 2G guy, but swapping to a *heavier* flywheel has been one of the best mods I’ve done for my first gen.

 

Yeah so probably a stock flywheel weight or even a heavier one would do better for the mountains of Tennessee. I think I'm just going to get the stock one

 

Probably doing this

 

Went ahead with the heavier flywheel and a stage 2 clutch. Also the release bearing fix. Never ran any performance clutch. About to go from 265 70 17 to 285 70 17 also. 2" lift front 2.75" rear lift on O.M.E springs and bilstien 5100's,adjustable sway bar endlinks,1" diff drop, freedom off-road UCA'S, Tom Wood's single piece double cardan driveshaft,Tom Wood's double front driveshaft, ECGS sintered bushing fix, MBRP high flow fart can,TRD Runner wheels.
Can't find a new truck I like so I do this.
Toyota replaced my frame,fuel lines,brake lines LCA's and most bushings in 2018 for rust perforations.