MESO Puddle Light build

LivinOnEdge · May 17, 2019

Tommyb08 said: ↑

Any red domes too lmao? Might as well add them to the tab next week to the puddles and fobs if possible . Gonna be a damn good week!
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Yea...good week...

Tommyb08 · May 17, 2019

r_to_the_k · May 17, 2019

Tommyb08 said: ↑

Any red domes too lmao? Might as well add them to the tab next week to the puddles and fobs if possible . Gonna be a damn good week!
Click to expand...

Or sucky... Depends if you can get what you want from @MESO's site, lol!

I just want some Stage 1's or Stage 2's!!!!

Tommyb08 · May 17, 2019

LivinOnEdge said: ↑

Yea...good week...

Click to expand...

Don’t worry, our wives will look for us ... if you guys don’t hear from me next week...ughhh... it’s been fun!

LivinOnEdge · May 17, 2019

Tommyb08 said: ↑

Don’t worry, our wives will look for us ... if you guys don’t hear from me next week...ughhh... it’s been fun!
Click to expand...

I can't hear from anyone if I'm dead.

Tacospike · May 17, 2019

LivinOnEdge said: ↑

I can't hear from anyone if I'm dead.
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Not true. Have you never seen ghosts of girlfriends past or vampire diaries?! God, I hate that I know that. I blame my lady

Hddiesel308 · May 17, 2019

Annnd the second order not a fob or puddles. Ugh.. stage 2 tails ordered.

r_to_the_k · May 17, 2019

Hddiesel308 said: ↑

Annnd the second order not a fob or puddles. Ugh.. stage 2 tails ordered.
Click to expand...

YUP! Just snagged a set of Stage 2's!!!!!!! Order #8630 @MESO Mod #8!

That's all I really wanted! The puddles will be a bonus if I'm able to snag a set!

I was just whining about it 5 posts up^

LivinOnEdge · May 17, 2019

Tacospike said: ↑

Not true. Have you never seen ghosts of girlfriends past or vampire diaries?! God, I hate that I know that. I blame my lady
Click to expand...

No, because I’m a man.

I think ive seen it...

Tacoman97 · May 17, 2019

pc3coyote said: ↑

Oh, these?

I don’t think I’m ready to part with them yet!

Click to expand...

you, with the foot lighting!! can u show me what ur using for that? maybe a link? looks awesome by the way. i like the undercarriage lights too.

hallux · May 17, 2019

I think what's unique about @MESO's mods is that they're just that...unique. He takes what we want in our vehicles and makes them happen, doesn't cut corners and doesn't settle on a product.

That being said, the only thing that deters me from purchasing is my lack of funding for my truck and me not wanting to fuck shit up (which I have an inherent ability to do....)

I'll eventually pick up something of his...just not sure what.

pc3coyote · May 17, 2019

Tacoman97 said: ↑

you, with the foot lighting!! can u show me what ur using for that? maybe a link? looks awesome by the way. i like the undercarriage lights too.
Click to expand...

You can see all of my light write-ups below / here.

pc3coyote said: ↑

Hello, friends!

I decided to compile all of my electrical write-ups in one thread.

This write-up includes:

LED front light bar

activated by physical switch

LED rock lights

activated by physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

LED puddle lights

activated by dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

LED reverse lights

activated by physical switch AND stock reverse signal

LED footwell lights

activated by rock lights physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

LED bed lights

activated by physical switch

LED map and dome lights

activated by factory physical switch AND dome light signal (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc)

Note: this is how I did it and I'm not the best electrically. It seemed like the most logical way but there could definitely be better approaches.

Huge thanks to @DSIM and @MESO for coming up with great products (referenced below in the rock lights and puddle lights sections) and for all of the help answering my relentless questions. They are great dudes!

Parts List

Front light bar

Light bar of your choice (I initially used a

MICTUNING 32" 180W Combo Led Light Bar - 13200 Lumen, 6000-6200K Crystal White, Waterproof for Off-road Jeep ATV UTV SUV Truck Boat

30" double row MicTuning light bar and then switched to a 20" single row Heise light bar in my @SouthernStyleOffRoad bumper)

$10 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

MicTuning wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch (could also use a

MICTUNING M0810-T-LLBB LED Push Switch with Connector Wire Kit for Toyota - LED LIGHT BAR Symbol -Blue

MicTuning blue LED push switch)

@ragofabrication (or other aftermarker bumper depending on how you're mounting it)

Rock lights

Rock lights of your choice (I used

4 Pods LED Rock Lights, Ampper Waterproof LED Neon Underglow Light for Car Truck ATV UTV SUV Offroad Boat Underbody Glow Trail Rig Lamp (White)

4 Ampper white rock light pods for the front and rear and 2 Audew white light strips for the middle/cab)

4 Lead LED Rock Lights Wiring Harness, Ampper LED Wiring Harness for LED Pods and Work Lights with Fuse 12V 40A Relay Waterproof On Off Rocker Switch

4-lead Ampper wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch

@DSIM dome light harness

Puddle lights

@MESO puddle pods

Reverse lights

Reverse lights of your choice (I used

$150 RIGID INDUSTRIES Ignite Backup Kit Black Flood Flush Mount: Mounting Accessories For Offroad Use

2 Rigid Ignite flush mount diffused)

$10 MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch

Mictuning wiring harness

Custom CH4x4 blue LED push switch

Diode

Footwell lights

Footwell lights of your choice (I used

$30 LEDGlow 4pc Red LED Interior Footwell Underdash Neon Lighting Kit for Cars & Trucks - 7 Unique Patterns - Music Mode - 8 Brightness Levels - Auto Illumination - Includes Cigarette Power Adapter

LEDGlow red 4pc kit under dash lighting kit - they have other colors and also multicolor)

Bed lights

@mattgecko bed lights in the color of your choice (I went with warm white)

Map and dome lights

@MESO map lights of your choice (I went with V2 red)

@MESO dome light of your choice (I went with V1 white)

Extras

@ragofabrication

@forty2 3-switch black narrow switch plate (great if you're adding several lights and there's also a 2-switch version, you can skip this and use the blank location if you're only installing one light and depending on your model of truck)

Consumables

Good quality electrical tape

$10 TYUMEN 40FT 18 Gauge 2pin 2 Color Red Black Cable Hookup Electrical LED Strips Extension Wire 12V/24V DC Cable, 18AWG Flexible Wire Extension Cord for Ribbon Lamp Tape Lighting

18AWG 2-pin wire

Black spray paint (whichever)

Rubbing alcohol (with a rag)

Tools

10mm, 12mm, 14mm deep sockets

5mm allen key (I think)

Flat head and phillips screw drivers

Wire crimper

Wire stripper/cutter

Lighter

Drill with various size bits

Dremel with cutting disk

Soldering iron and solder

Trim removal tools

Wiring Diagrams

Front Light Bar

Rock Lights

Reverse Lights

Footwell Lights

@DSIM Dome Light Harness

Switches

Front Light Bar

Instructions

Leave the main connections (battery positive and ground) connections for the end once you have all your wires routed as a precaution. Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Remove the grill. Use the phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws and the flat head screwdriver to remove the two plastic tab screws. Grab the upper supports and pull straight out. The plastic tabs will come out.

Remove the wind deflectors on each side. Use the flat head screwdriver to remove the single plastic tab screw on each side.

Remove the two transmission cooler bolts by using the 12mm deep socket. Push the transmission cooler back to make it easier to slide the LED light bar in.

Remove the two nuts on each of the outer sides of each crash bar with the 14mm deep socket. Leave the inner bolts alone. Install only the driver side light bar bracket but only hand-tighten the nuts.

Slide in the light bar from the passenger side to the driver side. Let it rest on the crash bars. Install the passenger side bracket and hand-tighten the nuts. Use the smaller bolts that came with the light bar to attach the light bar to the brackets with a 5mm allen key. I also added two hardened washers (one on each side) but they likely aren’t needed. You may need a second person to hold the light bar as you bolt the light bar to the bracket so that you can lean down to see through the grill to line up the bolts and holes. Ensure that the light bar is pulled all the way forward and rotated to face straight out.

Mount the relay to the bracket by the battery by temporarily removing the bolt with a 10mm socket.

Cut off the spade terminals from the white and black wires from the harness, cut it shorter to length, and use the 14 AWG butt connectors to connect it to the red and black light bar wires (white to red, black to black). Use electrical tape over the connectors. Use electrical tape over the second set of white and black wires from the harness or cut them off if you don't plan to use them (they are for a second light bar).

Temporarily run the two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to the right of the relay to test the light bar. Use the attached switch. If it works, disconnect the terminals. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot. The battery terminal requires a12mm socket and the ground requires a 10mm socket.

Reinstall the transmission cooler

Cut off small corners of the wind deflectors with a dremel and then reinstall. This is so that it doesn’t hit the light bar.

Zip tie the wire going from the light bar to the relay in various places to keep it out of the way. There are plenty of places to attach too.

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If you're only installing one switch: Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

If you're installing multiple switches: Remove the cubby with a screwdriver.. It unscrews from the back. Screw in the new switch holder.

Cut off the switch from the harness. Cut off a straight piece of a metal hangar. Use the hanger wire to poke a hole in the rubber firewall. Use electrical tape to tape the red, white, and black wires coming from the relay to the hanger. Rub a dab of dish soap over the taped area of the hangar and then pull it through from the interior by pulling on the end of the hangar.

Wire the switch to the harness wires by using the 20 AWG butt connectors. Red harness wire goes to the green switch wire, white harness wire goes to the red 1 (first after green) switch wire, black harness wire goes to the black switch wire. After that, use the 20 AWG quick splice to connect the red 2 (second after green, first from black) switch wire to the green cargo wire (first wire on the first switch from the left). After you connect everything, wrap all the connects in electrical tape.

Reconnect the two two red terminals to the positive battery terminal and the two black terminals to the ground to test the light bar. By default, nothing is lit up. The switch text LED should light up when the interior lights are on. The switch light bar LED should come on when pressed. Test the new switch to make sure it works, that the lighter comes on, and the switch light bar LED should also light up. If it works, proceed. If it doesn’t, troubleshoot.

Ziptie the extra slack going from the relay to the firewall, from the firewall to the battery positive terminal, and from the firewall to the ground terminal. Reinstall the dash panels. Reinstall the grill.

Photos

Rock Lights

Instructions

Engine bay wiring

Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Run two power wires and two ground wires (for relay and switch) to battery and ground in side of engine bay using 12mm and 10mm socket respectively. Trim to right lengths utilizing 18AWG wire and butt connectors (heat shrunk with lighter, wrapped in electrical tape) as needed. Use wire loom (electrical tape on ends) over wires

Cut off switch. Use a sharp object (coat hanger, shish kabob stick, etc) to poke a hole in the rubber boot, with the switch wire electrical taped to it, to run the switch wire into the cab. Use wire loom to cover wire

Switch placement and wiring

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If you're only installing one switch: Remove the blank switch place-holder from the far right. It unclips from the back and pushes to the front.

If you're installing multiple switches: Remove the cubby with a screwdriver.. It unscrews from the back. Screw in the new switch holder.

Push in switches

Use butt connectors (and electrical tape) to connect switch wires to switch

Use quick splice connector (and electrical tape) to connect switch wire to another switch wire for illumination

If you want the rock lights triggered by the dome light signal in addition to the physical switch (approaching vehicle, unlocking vehicle, opening doors, etc

Follow this Toyota guide on removing the a-pillar cover

Ziptie @DSIM relay to one of the factory harnesses

Follow @Volksparts guide on wiring in the @DSIM black wire. Feed @DSIM black wire up behind dash towards a-pillar and use quick splice connector to connect @DSIM black wire to yellow a-pillar wire

Use quick splice connectors to connect @DSIM red wire to switch green wire and @DSIM yellow wire to switch red 1 wire

Reassemble

Lights placement

Rear two lights were under the bumper and were ziptied to the frame

Front two lights were under the front bumper. I made a paper template of the light by tracing it and used that to drill three holes (two mounting bolts and wire) into the flimsy plastic in the front of the truck under the bumper in front of the wheel well. I then mounted the lights using the two supplied bolts. I accessed the inside of the wheel well to secure the 10mm nut from the wheel well using the 10mm socket to hold the nut and the 5mm alley key to tighted the bolt. You access the wheel well by removing one 10mm bolt with the 10mm socket and one push screw with a flathead screwdriver from inside the wheel well and then pull the plastic aside.

Middle lights are on the inside of the body right above the pinch weld. I cleaned the area with a rag and some rubbing alcohol. I centered the lights off of my sliders which end right before and after the front and rear doors respectively but you can center them off other identifiers. My sliders are 78" and the LEDs are 60" so I marked off 9" on the body off the front and back of the sliders for the start and stop points of the LED strips. They are adhesively-backed so applying them is very easy, just firmly press them into into place as you work your way down. (thanks to @KTJO 4x4 for the recommendation of this mounting location)

These are all high enough and protected to not get damaged from offroading

Lights wiring

There are two wires from the relay for each side, each with two leads

Run one wire across back of engine bay facing cab ziptieing to existing harness as you go

Cut off wiring harness leads for the rock light harness. Connect additional wire to one of the harness wire leads with butt connectors (and electrical tape, wrapped in wire loom) and run straight down to under truck

Cut off the ends for the two LED strip lights and set aside the included harness (won't be used)

Run wire to first light (in wire loom) at the passenger front door ziptieing to existing harness as you go

Three way splice with two butt connectors (one for red positive wire and one for black negative wire). One side has the incoming wire. Other side has rock light wire twisted together with additional wire. I'd strip the wire for both the rock light and outgoing wire and then twist the strands together (do that for both red and black wires respectively). Wrap in electrical tape and then put in wire loom

Repeat above for passenger LED strip, passenger rear bumper, driver rear bumper, and finally the driver LED strip (daisy chaining as you go with three way splice at each light, covering wire in wire loom as you go, ziptieing to existing harness as you go)

For the passenger front bumper, connect additional wire (with butt connectors) to the other lead from where you ran across the engine and where you ran the one lead down to under the truck, wrap in wire loom, and fish the wire down to the small opening in the bumper from behind the headlights. Connect the light to the wire and then push all of the extra wire back into the bumper

For the driver front bumper, you can now use the other primary wire coming from the relay. We'll only need the long lead so you can either cut off the extra one in the middle or just cover it electrical tape. Repeat process above for fishing the wire and connecting the light

@DSIM dome light harness

Photos

Puddle Lights

Instructions

Removing the Door Panels

Disconnect negative battery terminal with 10mm socket

Remove felt in cubby with pick

Remove plastic behind door handle with pick

Remove three fasteners securing door panel

Remove two Phillip screws

For the plastic insert, push the center button in and then pry outside with pick

Remove the upper mirror trim piece with trim removal tool

Remove door panel with trim removal tool starting at the bottom pulling hard and sliding up towards the window

Slide out two door handle cables

Disconnect the two electrical plugs, the larger one has a release tab you press down and a collar that slides back, the smaller one has a release tab you press down,

Set door panel aside

Repeat Steps 2-11 for the passenger side

Passenger door has two electrical plugs to disconnect as well but both just have a release tab you press down

Installing the Puddle Lights

Disconnect mirror plug

Remove three black tape pieces covering the bolts securing the mirror with pick

Remove three nuts off the mirror bolts passing through the door with a 10mm socket while holding the mirror on the outside of the door so it doesn't fall

Remove the mirror from outside the door by sliding the bolts through the door once the nuts have been removed

Disconnect the 10” extension from the meso harness

Remove the tape on the mirror cable pass-through

Remove lower mirror trim piece with pick

Fish 10” extension through mirror trim piece and then through mirror arm

Connect the extension to the puddle light and snap it into place

Pull out slack of cords and push the trim piece flush onto the mirror

Rewrap the cables coming out of the pass-through with electrical tape

Reinstall mirror from outside door with 10mm socket to reinstall the nuts onto the bolts while passing the cords through the door and holding the mirror in place

Repeat Steps 1-12 for passenger side

Installing the Harness Leads

Overall wiring

Remove floormat

Remove lower kick panel trim piece with tool

Remove twist cap nut with your hand and then pull side footwell panel trim piece out

Disconnect three plugs in the driver footwell

Between the door and the cab, pop off boot from door with pick careful not to hit wires by slowly prying around the edge

Pop off boot from the cab side by prying on around the edge on the outside with the pick and pushing from inside the cab and cut the electrical tape securing the open end of the boot that goes into the cab

Take the shorter lead side of the meso harness and add some tape around the extension connector and its wires (if required) so the wires don’t pull out and so the connector release tab doesn’t snag on the boot as you push it through

Feed the meso cable through the cab passthrough to outside

Push the connect through the boot which is a little bit of a pain in the butt but have patience, it helps to have one hand stretch the boot as you use the other hand to push the connector through with your finger, once you get it more than halfway you can roll the opposite side of the boot back to expose the connector and pull it the rest of the way, be very careful to not rip any of the factory cords or damage the boot

Fish the cable into the door now that you have it through the boot

Make a small cut in the door plastic lining to reach your hand into the door to pass yourself the meso cable

Pull the cable through and connect it to the end of the extension that's coming through the top of the door

Feed the longer lead side of the meso harness through the small hole of the carpet under the console to the passenger side

Feed cable under carpet in passenger footwell, it just lifts up

Repeat Steps 2-13 for the passenger side

There's only two plugs to disconnect for the passenger footwell

Installing the Harness to OEM Connections

Remove the three 10mm bolts holding the lower dash piece in place with the 10mm socket

Gently pull the lower dash piece down to disengage the 11 clips holding it in place

Use the pick to remove the plastic piece in the a pillar that is covering the bolt

Use the 10mm socket to remove the bolt and pull the a pillar cover off

Feed the large end of the meso harness behind the dash towards the a pillar

Disconnect the OEM harness and plug the OEM female into the meso male and the OEM male to the meso female, you may need to cut the zip tie securing the OEM harness to do this

Tuck the extra slack of the meso harness in ensuring nothing is getting in the way or possibly interfering with the airbag

Final Steps

Reconnect battery negative terminal with 10mm socket

Test by opening and closing your doors and unlocking and locking your doors to ensure the puddle lights come on with the map/dome lights (ensure the map lights switch is set to the center function to be triggered by the door)

Tape the meso harness to the existing mirror harness in the door

You can add tape if needed to the plastic lining on the door if you had to cut it to pull the meso extension wire through

Reconnect the door panel electrical plugs and the two cables for the door handle ensuring you snap the ends of the connectors for the door handle wires into the trim on back side of the door panel, the door handle wire connectors have notches for this

Lift the door panel back onto the door starting at the top near the window and sliding down before pressing all of the plastic clips into place

Snap the top mirror trim back into place being careful to not lose the three plastic clips that secure it in the door

Screw back the two phillips head screws in the door, the larger screw is for the cubby and the smaller one is for behind the door handle

Snap the plastic insert back into place

Reinstall the felt and plastic trim pieces for the doors

Push the rubber boot back into the door and cab

Repeat Steps 3-10 for the passenger side

Reinstall the a pillar trim piece using the 10mm socket and snapping the cover back over the bolt

Snap the lower dash piece back into place and secure with 10mm bolts

Tuck any extra wiring up behind the lower dash piece and secure with tipties (if required)

Reinstall the side footwell trim piece and tighten with twist nut

Reinstall lower kick panel

Reinstall floor mat

Repeat steps 14-16 for the passenger side

Photos

Rear Lights

Instructions

Same as rock lights with the exception of drilling into the plastic part of the rear bumper with a 1.75" hole saw for the main hole for the light and 3/16" drill bit for the mount screw holes

If you want the new reverse lights to come on with stock reverse signal in addition to physical switch

Follow this EAA guide on how to solder a diode to 2-3 ft of wire and then put wire assembly inside wire loom

Use quick splice connector to connect one end of new wire to middle white wire of trailer harness and other end of new wire to red positive wire of wire leading to the reverse lights

Photos

Footwell Lights

Instructions

Always start with negative battery terminal disconnected (use a 10mm socket) and cover terminal with a rag so it can't make contact.

Follow @moe2o4 ’s guide to disassemble the dash panels. Use trim removal tool, 10mm socket, and phillips screwdriver to remove three trim pieces on driver side.

If your LEDs have a control box, mount it in desired location. I mounted mine using the supplied double-sided tape in the driver footwell area in the bottom right corner.

Use a quick splice connector to connect the red positive wire from the LED control box to the yellow @DSIM wire. I also added extra electrical tape around the plastic connectors with the fuse to ensure it doesn't come disconnected.

Use a quick splice connector to connect the black negative wire from the LED control box to the black wire from the rock light CH4x4 switch.

Pass two of the light bars through the small hole of the carpet under the console to the passenger side.

Run two of the light bars (one for each side) to under the seats while tucking the extra wire up and under the side of the wire console.

Secure light bars in desired locations using zipties and/or double-sided tape. I mounted mine at:

Driver side front: under dash with double-sided tape

Passenger side front: under dash with zipties using holes already in dash

Driver side rear: under front of driver seat using zipties around metal support bar

Passenger side rear: under front of passenger seat using zipties around metal support bar

Photos

Switches

Photos

Three-switch option

One-switch option

Relay Holder

Instructions

This is only if your relays don't have the empty tab slot on the back to install onto the relay holder

Drill three holes into relay holder tabs to mount relays with zipties. If you buy relays from an auto parts store, they'll have a slot where the relay holder tabs will slide in. Since I used premade harnesses, they didn't have this

Spray paint over the new holes to avoid rust

Mount relay holder in engine bay

Install relays on relay holder with zipties through hole in the relay and new holes in the relay holder

Bed Lights

Instructions

Follow @mattgecko's instructions which are really easy to follow, you'll receive them with your order

Photos

Map and Dome Lights

Map Lights Instructions

Dome Light Instructions

From Toyota, the switch's two positions are 'always on' and 'on with doors'. There is no way to have it off when the doors are open unless you also have the map lights turned off as well. The door trigger disconnect mod for the dome light allows for independent control of the dome light with the switch without dome light coming on with the doors.

Disconnect negative side of the battery with a 10mm socket just to be safe.

Gather tools. If you're just installing it normally (come on with doors open as well as the switch), you only need a small screwdriver like below. If you're doing the door trigger disconnect, you'll also need some and a lighter or heat gun.

Use the screwdriver to remove the stock plastic cover by inserting it into the slots circled in green on the switch side. There are four blue tabs that will come out of the black housing.

Remove the stock bulb. If you are not doing the door trigger disconnect, you can skip to the end. If you are doing the door trigger disconnect, use the screw driver to push back the two tabs circled in green below in the black housing. Then use your fingers and slowly start pulling the dome light housing down from each corner. There are a few clips holding it in but it will give once you pull on it lightly.

Once you have it disconnected, insert the screwdriver into the little slots circled in blue, there are two small tabs for the grey piece that you are unclipping. You can use your finger to push the grey section out as you do this.

Here is the back of the black housing. The location of the two tabs that you were undoing above are circled below in blue. Once they are unclipped, that side of the grey piece unclips and pulls out from the black housing.

Once you separate the grey piece from the black housing, you need to expose the wires. Use the screwdriver to lightly push each of the four tabs below circled in green to remove the cover over the wires. You can also use your finger from the side to help pry the lid off.

Once you have the cover off, use your fingers or the screwdriver to lightly pull up the middle red wire leaving the two side wires in place. Cut off a small piece of heat shrink, insert it over the red wire, and use a lighter or heat gun to shrink it. Set it off to the side away from where the wire cover goes.

Snap the wire cover back on over the wires. You then reinstall the grey piece back into the black housing. Insert the side with the wires that goes towards the switch in first (circled below in green) and then snap it into place with a light push.

Push the black housing back into the headliner. Make sure you fully press each corner until it's sitting tight and flush into the headliner. Now, you can install the new meso dome light. Lightly squeeze the bulb adapter and while compressed insert it into the spot of the stock bulb and then release. The red positive wire goes toward the driver side.

Install the new cover starting with the back side with the larger two plastic tabs. You can tuck the wire in behind the light, just make sure that it doesn't stick out of the slot where the switch goes. You can give it a light squeeze as you push in the front two tabs.

Reconnect negative side of the battery with a 10mm socket.

Test it out! One side of the switch should be always off and the other side should be always on. You can now have the dome light come on whenever you want and have it off with the doors open so that only the map lights come on with the doors open.

Photos

Click to expand...

MaukatoMakai4V6tacoma · May 17, 2019

pc3coyote said: ↑

Oh, these?

I don’t think I’m ready to part with them yet!

Click to expand...

How did you have rear dome off and front domes on with the doors open?

pc3coyote · May 17, 2019

MaukatoMakai4V6tacoma said: ↑

How did you have rear dome off and front domes on with the doors open?
Click to expand...

See my post above ^, I explain how to do it in my write-up

pc3coyote said: ↑

Dome Light Instructions

From Toyota, the switch's two positions are 'always on' and 'on with doors'. There is no way to have it off when the doors are open unless you also have the map lights turned off as well. The door trigger disconnect mod for the dome light allows for independent control of the dome light with the switch without dome light coming on with the doors.

Disconnect negative side of the battery with a 10mm socket just to be safe.

Gather tools. If you're just installing it normally (come on with doors open as well as the switch), you only need a small screwdriver like below. If you're doing the door trigger disconnect, you'll also need some and a lighter or heat gun.

Use the screwdriver to remove the stock plastic cover by inserting it into the slots circled in green on the switch side. There are four blue tabs that will come out of the black housing.

Remove the stock bulb. If you are not doing the door trigger disconnect, you can skip to the end. If you are doing the door trigger disconnect, use the screw driver to push back the two tabs circled in green below in the black housing. Then use your fingers and slowly start pulling the dome light housing down from each corner. There are a few clips holding it in but it will give once you pull on it lightly.

Once you have it disconnected, insert the screwdriver into the little slots circled in blue, there are two small tabs for the grey piece that you are unclipping. You can use your finger to push the grey section out as you do this.

Here is the back of the black housing. The location of the two tabs that you were undoing above are circled below in blue. Once they are unclipped, that side of the grey piece unclips and pulls out from the black housing.

Once you separate the grey piece from the black housing, you need to expose the wires. Use the screwdriver to lightly push each of the four tabs below circled in green to remove the cover over the wires. You can also use your finger from the side to help pry the lid off.

Once you have the cover off, use your fingers or the screwdriver to lightly pull up the middle red wire leaving the two side wires in place. Cut off a small piece of heat shrink, insert it over the red wire, and use a lighter or heat gun to shrink it. Set it off to the side away from where the wire cover goes.

Snap the wire cover back on over the wires. You then reinstall the grey piece back into the black housing. Insert the side with the wires that goes towards the switch in first (circled below in green) and then snap it into place with a light push.

Push the black housing back into the headliner. Make sure you fully press each corner until it's sitting tight and flush into the headliner. Now, you can install the new meso dome light. Lightly squeeze the bulb adapter and while compressed insert it into the spot of the stock bulb and then release. The red positive wire goes toward the driver side.

Install the new cover starting with the back side with the larger two plastic tabs. You can tuck the wire in behind the light, just make sure that it doesn't stick out of the slot where the switch goes. You can give it a light squeeze as you push in the front two tabs.

Reconnect negative side of the battery with a 10mm socket.

Test it out! One side of the switch should be always off and the other side should be always on. You can now have the dome light come on whenever you want and have it off with the doors open so that only the map lights come on with the doors open.

Click to expand...

MaukatoMakai4V6tacoma · May 17, 2019

pc3coyote said: ↑

See my post above ^, I explain how to do it in my write-up
Click to expand...

Thanks I just seen your post after I posted my question. Nice write

Tacospike · May 17, 2019

LivinOnEdge said: ↑

No, because I’m a man.

I think ive seen it...
Click to expand...

HA!! Cheers!

skynyrd87 · May 17, 2019

With 300 units being released on the first run, most of us shouldn’t have any issues getting a set.

Jonicus · May 17, 2019

I didn't know it is going to be 300. That's fantastic!

Tacospike · May 17, 2019

skynyrd87 said: ↑

With 300 units being released on the first run, most of us shouldn’t have any issues getting a set.
Click to expand...

That definitely does keep me somewhat hopeful for me grabbing a set.

I think maybe even if its 100

boywonder77 · May 17, 2019

Where did 300 units come from?

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