MESO Total Tail Light Kit

Ahhh. I know of the hyperflash issues when the resistors aren't being used, I had the problem myself. So I had to install the resistors on mine.

In what I've read, people were only getting hyperflash when not using the resistors. I must have missed the posts where people were having hyperflash issues when using the resistors. So if that's the case, using the resistors as a "plug" idea won't work.

 

IF it works for yours go for it!!! I was pointing out that with our 3rd gens it does not seem to be "one size fits all" as far as resistors go.

Also I think, though my knowledge is limited to what I have ready on TW, that too much resistance it what typically causes the issue with the blinkers doing 1 and done.



EDIT: Personally, if resistance is not needed for mine I will likely go with terminal boots/covers or a blank plug (filling wire holes with silicone) as discussed previously in this thread. Assuming of course that I am able to score a stage 1 on this round.

 

Well I just experienced an issue. With the Meso ultimate turn signals and resistors attached on the stage 1 kit, the blinkers will only blink once and stop. Too much resistance does not work so it looks
like you can’t leave the resistor attached. By disconnecting it, they work normally. Hope this helps others.

 

How much are stage 1 & 2 kits?

 

$110 & $220 respectively

 

Worth every penny.

 

Has anyone swapped out the headlight bulbs to VLED after getting Meso tail kits? If I am reading right, the high beam and low beams are the same bulb and then you just need an amber turn signal bulb right? Total of 6 bulbs?

 

Nope, high beam is an H9 and low beam is an H11.

 

Lows and highs are seperate, would have no effects on this kit. The only thing that may effect the total tails (more specifically the hyper flash) will be the front turns. I upgraded my front turns to the v6 Tritons amber after I got the stage 2 and like them. Didn’t need resistors.

I went with hids for the lows as a temp until I can retro. Highs are stock- just because I don’t use them and just haven’t looked into a replacement yet.

 

Interesting. On the VLED site it just lists them as the same. No way to select H9 vs H11. Thank you for clarifying!

 

I took a look at their site, looks like they're indeed interchangeable. The problem with other bulbs is the way the socket is shaped. Left is low, right is high:


The way they actually mount into the headlight housing (the metal prongs) is the same:


The VLED bulb connectors are universal and will plug into either socket. The tops of the socket that hold the bulbs in the housing are identical, so you should be good with VLED. Other bulb brands, can't be so sure unless you know it will connect to the stock headlight connection. Clear as mud?

 

I am running phillips H9’s in both my low and high beams per @crashnburn80 ’s 3rd gen headlight upgrade thread. No hyper flashing with stage 2 tails, v4 turn signals, and no resistors.

 

I urge you to use vled for all your bulbs. There customer service has to be the best. When I first bought my truck I went with headlight revolution supernova V.3 and lights were good but when one went out it took 2 months for them to contact me. So in the meantime I bought vled low beams https://www.vleds.com/shop-applicat...am/h11-h8-h9/micro-extreme-h11-h16-h8-h9.html. Headlight revolution did honor the warranty but there customer service absolutely is the pits.

 

As stated a number of times previously - Headlight choices have ZERO effect on hyperflash/resistors. Only the TURN signal lamps are affected and related to this issue.

 

Lol was going to ask about this setup now that I have the mirrors. And go figure... not issues yet with resistors still connected. go figure the randomness.

 

Never seen one episode actually!

 

I also have front turn signals bulbs with built in resistors so that may have been the issue. Seems like everyone experiences something different.

 

For those trying to cap off the plug after removing resistors, I went ahead with 1/2” rubber caps from Home Depot and stretched them over the open ended plug and finished it off with electrical tape. Took a little stretching but it worked.

 

Actually, I was just thinking this might be a better idea for most. I wasn’t 100% sure of the cap size, since I don’t physically have one of the connectors. I would perhaps suggest putting some dielectric grease inside the cap/tip of the connector to inhibit corrosion, prevent water. It should help with sliding the cap over as well.
Good call @NuTacoma18 !

 

Thank you sir. I forgot to mention I did put a little dielectric grease in the plug before installing cap. I didn’t use it to slide over but not a bad idea.