Methanol 4.0

Well I’m also less inclined to mess with what’s tried and proven. I’m sure you’re familiar with the weak UZ rods. There is a better belt selection nowadays compared to when that topic was discussed. Also there was a GS430 guy that slapped a m112 onto his car. Went from 6, 8, 10, and then 12 psi is when it let go. He did a 2JZ swap after that.

 

I’m at 6000 feet and run up to 10,000 feet so the air is super thin, if I was at sea level NO WAY would I go that small

 

Apparently, I'm inclined to mess with it. I get 14psi on warm days and 16psi on cold days.

 

After speaking with the tech at snow&n/x I'm under the impression their nozzle suggestions are rather conservative. Butt dyno tells me a #5 nozzle is a great match with a 2.5 pulley.

 

Your best to get a dyno and then you will know exactly what your numbers are.
Dyno will tell you the EXACT hp, boost,AFR, numbers.

Gauges don’t always tell you the whole truth and you can see how accurate the gauges
are to the DYNO run.

If your running a little lean or to rich because of the nozzle size you will burn your cats up.

 

True. IF I had cats

 

Welll.. I blew a 7.5amp fuse on my way to work this morning. Threw a 10amp in there that I had. I will update if it blows that one as well. Seems like it popped during a WOT run this morning when it was cold out..

 

Good to know. I've never tripped one.

 

Any idea what size fuse you have in yours?

 

Probably a 7.5 I've always wondered how such a heavy duty pump ran on such small wires. The instructions never specified anything like a dedicated circuit.

 

I was also wondering why they used such small wires on the pump. That was my logic for using a fuse tap to install mine. It had the same gauge wiring as the pump, so it should be solid(as long as it's fused properly). Im guessing it is just because the pump doesn't run constantly (except for maybe in @Athlaos case because he runs a truck load of meth). I think it's 16 gauge wiring they used iirc

 

I thought it said 20A somewhere in the instruction manual. That's what I have in mine.

 

Interesting... I didn't see anything in the instructions about that. I fused mine based on what the max amperage the wire is able to carry safely. I think 16AWG wire is rated for 10 amps

 

Just read through the stage 2 boost cooler instructions, it does say a 20amp fuse.. seems like the wiring would melt down before it'd ever trip the fuse though.

 

I did some reading on this a while back when I was trying to figure out how much current wires can actually hold... meaning how much safety of factor did engineers put into the "ratings" of various wires. 16ga CAN hold 20A without melting. Temperature of the wire would increase about 30 degrees.

 

Very good to know, makes me feel much better about my wiring..

 

Also the wire itself doesn't melt until like 1200 degrees... so you could theoretically put LOADS more current through the wire. But, the polymer insulation on the wire would melt or burn long before that. So you'd end up with a short circuit, or a fire, at some point before the metal melts. Lol

 

When I was at the dyno hack-tuning the water/methanol, my constant-spray #4 and progressive spray #3 and #5 (simultaneous) seemed hit a sweet spot of power when I adjusted the progressive system to be 2/3 on. That's a weird formula for you to work out there, but I think you get the idea anyway.

 

Thanks. I'll tinker with it.

 

Think I'm going to relocate my nozzle to the 76mm adapter plate this weekend. Hesitant about tapping my new afe intake pipe. Thoughts guys?