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Methanol 4.0

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by White lightning boosted, Jun 15, 2018.

  1. Sep 28, 2020 at 3:10 PM
    #1021
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Why does it state to subtract boost pressure?
    It may be applicable to direct nozzle placement (in intake runner) where the meth nozzle would have to overcome boost pressure.

    What does your calculator show if you don't subtract boost pressure from the calculation?
     
  2. Sep 28, 2020 at 3:16 PM
    #1022
    TodayWasTHeDaY

    TodayWasTHeDaY Hoser

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    It's just the way they estimate for their system. Don't know the specifics or the engineering (or lack of lol). I do know the Aquamist pump maintains a steady line pressure of methanol and uses a fast pulsing solonoid to regulate flow to the nozzles and the calculation subtracts the boost pressure from that steady pump pressure.

    Think most other systems ramp up or slow down the pump for meth delivery.

    Like I said earlier the calculation is aquamist specific but at the same time its giving their suggested dosage for my truck and other people's trucks are similar enough that I think the same recommendation would apply. Flow is flow and it's a ballpark number to get started.


    If I don't subtract boost pressure it skews the recommended flow slightly on the graph they use. Not a huge difference unless one is boosting 25-30 psi.
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2020
  3. Sep 28, 2020 at 3:27 PM
    #1023
    TodayWasTHeDaY

    TodayWasTHeDaY Hoser

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    Good to see you posting a bit!

    Get that kit installed!
     
  4. Sep 28, 2020 at 3:51 PM
    #1024
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Got my #6 nozzle in the mail today. Working on the install now.. does anyone have any tips on tools to use to remove the nozzle from the intake pipe? It would appear that I over tightened it during install and now it doesn't want to come out.

    Also found this almost all the way plugged up and the nozzle itself was rusty. I run a filter as well and it hasnt ever looked like this. I did add the filter a few months after adding the system so maybe that has something to do with it. Makes me want to add a filter before the pump too. I think I will start cleaning/replacing the nozzle every 7500 miles. This was with 15k miles on the system using only Boost Juice

    IMG_4596.jpg
    IMG_4598.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2020
    JacksonTacoma likes this.
  5. Sep 28, 2020 at 4:42 PM
    #1025
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    Got it out with some channel locks. Waiting for the E6000 to dry and then it off to test drive
     
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  6. Sep 28, 2020 at 5:20 PM
    #1026
    JacksonTacoma

    JacksonTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if you can put a filter before the pump? It didn't work with the Snow 100 micron filter when I installed on the wrong side at the pump inlet. Snow said it has to be after the pump. Maybe a different filter will work, I could easily be wrong.
     
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  7. Sep 28, 2020 at 5:28 PM
    #1027
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Ok, so the calculation difference was minimal, thats good.
    I said to redo the calculation because, for example, our fuel injection system is regulated at 43.5psi fixed pressure.
    Since our fuel injectors are AFTER the sc, without fpr mod our fuel injectors lose 1psi fuel pressure for each psi of boost since the boost is directly opposing the fuel pressure when each injector opens.
    This may be what Aquamist is referring to as if the meth nozzle was in the "pressurized" side of the plenum, the meth nozzle would also be exposed to boost which would make sense to calculate for the difference.


    No shit!!!
    On my two trips to Cali in 112F temps I learned alot about the 2.3 pulley and temps.

    Long story short, if we want to run smaller pulleys in super hot temps, we need to either delay the bypass closing of the sc to near 0 vacuum or run meth with very small nozzle (75ml?)starting at 1psi progressive.
    THIS IS FOR DAILY DRIVEN VEHICLES THAT HAVE TO BE RELIABLE IN ALL CONDITIONS!!!

    The reason I say this is because even when I was running in 4hg vacuum, my intercooler temp delta was almost 60 degrees. When I backed off to approx 6 to 8hg of vacuum the delta was 25!
    What this tells me is at cruising at 2400ish rpm with a 2.3 pulley, there is too much sc rpm (whipping the air even when its bypassing, heating it). I know this because with a slightly larger pulley my intercooler delta temps were much closer together.
    2.3 pulley with meth is totally a way to go if you are not planning on towing, adding a bunch of armor, etc. I would easily recommend a 2.3 WITH meth and a vehicle NEVER towing and NOT in excessively hot conditions.
    My plan is to re-install my 2.5 pulley and at some point install my meth system since I do drive in hot temps and tow.

    A setup such as @Athlaos makes sense for someone drag racing or making quick passes but not as a dd on freeways and such. As stated, the long duration of freeway driving combined with high ambient temps and high sc rotor speed will increase plenum temps drastically!
    A quick run through the gears and playing around town still allow the sc and coolant system to work keeping temps in check.
    Its the longer duration running at sustained rpm combined with the faster rotor speed of the sc at said engine rpm that creates much of the heat issue. Remove one of the variables and temps are more easily maintained.



    Looks like the methanol ate whatever coating Snow had on their nozzle leaving bare metal which obviously doesn't like meth!
    I don't know how you have your nozzle installed and I don't have advise since I haven't even installed my system yet.
    You cant just unscrew your nozzle?
    Whats preventing you from using a pair of vise grips and loosening it up that way?
    It doesn't look like the nozzle is useful any more anyway?
     
  8. Sep 28, 2020 at 5:38 PM
    #1028
    TodayWasTHeDaY

    TodayWasTHeDaY Hoser

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    This is why we miss you!
     
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  9. Sep 28, 2020 at 5:41 PM
    #1029
    BassAckwards

    BassAckwards Well-Known Member

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    I didn't realize snow said no filters before the pump, I guess I won't try that.. thanks for the heads up man
    I figured it out! I put the last nozzle in and snugged it up with needle nose pliers. It was the other piece of the snow fitting that goes over the nozzle that you also screw on that I also tightened down. Long story short, when I tightened this down on top of the already snug nozzle, it caused me issues during removal haha

    Yeah I was trying to remove it without destroying it at first, but gave up and went the channel lock method. Those made quick work of it. Like you said after looking at it I wouldn't want to reuse it
     
  10. Sep 28, 2020 at 5:48 PM
    #1030
    JacksonTacoma

    JacksonTacoma Well-Known Member

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    I don't know about all filters but at least this 100 micron they said must go after. It's set up to mount to the pump outlet. I tried it on the inlet because I figured why not protect the pump too, but I couldn't get any spray out of the pump. Not sure if or how much vacuum the pump pulls from the reservoir tank or if it's just gravity feed in which case a filter probably wont work pre-pump.
    20200904_143519.jpg
     
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  11. Sep 28, 2020 at 5:49 PM
    #1031
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    Pump inlet is gravity fed (why the pump has to be below the reservoir). Apparently the filter restricts pump inlet flow so the pump cavitates.
    Thank you for sharing as I wouldn't have known prior to your experience.
    It alleviates that part of testing so thank you @JacksonTacoma.
     
  12. Sep 28, 2020 at 6:03 PM
    #1032
    Athlaos

    Athlaos Destruction Mode

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    Interesting that you mention that idea because that was pretty much my line of thinking with the two systems... the on/off stage 1 system comes on at 7psi boost and then the progressive stage 2 starts spraying once a certain airflow happens. I like it for two reasons, one because it helps prime the intake with a bit of water/meth before it's actually needed or beneficial, so when I really open the throttle there isn't a breif slug of air with absolutely no wtr/meth while the air that's between the nozzles and the combustion chamber makes its way through the engine. And second, if one system fails I hopefully don't bend a rod due to pre-ignition, since I do have the seventh injector and the stage 1 nozzle of 275ml/min... I think? I can't remember all these numbers off the top of my head, keep having to refer back to my build thread...

    And whether or not my setup is good for daily driving is arguable, but that certainly is what I do with it. :D a friend of mine said 'a person should never stop racing' and I made that one of my mantras.
     
  13. Sep 28, 2020 at 6:10 PM
    #1033
    TodayWasTHeDaY

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    @Roostfactor, I've always been curious on the temperature differentials so thanks for that info.

    The highway driving stuff is great detective work and I'm going to have to play with some settings. It looks like I can set my system down to trip at approximately 12% Injector duty cycle and adjust the gain as needed.
     
  14. Sep 28, 2020 at 6:34 PM
    #1034
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    I purposely bought the stage 3 system because thats what most people here run and I think it should work well for our needs.

    I dont currently have any data on injector duty cycle (pertaining to meth) but it seems like a nice control for our needs.

    What everyone needs to keep in mind is that we will likely all have slomewhat different engine configs which will affect everyones meth tuning differently.
     
  15. Sep 28, 2020 at 6:41 PM
    #1035
    TodayWasTHeDaY

    TodayWasTHeDaY Hoser

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    My system runs on Injector pulses independent of boost. Although it still has a minimum trip point.

    Everyone's systems are both similar and different. And then there's environmental factors as well - elevation is a factor where I live but crazy heat isn't so much. And those damned polar bears on the highways:D
     
  16. Sep 29, 2020 at 11:44 AM
    #1036
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    NEVER stop racing or challenging yourself.
    When I say daily driving, it is very hard to explain. I can daily my 2.3 pulley no problem. 15 minutes on the freeway then pulling off to city traffic...no problem.
    The problem comes from sustained high sc rotor rpm combined with high ambient temps. It doesn't give the system enough time to lower ambient temps without meth.
     
  17. Sep 29, 2020 at 11:47 AM
    #1037
    Roostfactor

    Roostfactor Well-Known Member

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    You really need a vac/boost gauge to help you find the correct idc start and max points.
     
  18. Sep 29, 2020 at 12:30 PM
    #1038
    TodayWasTHeDaY

    TodayWasTHeDaY Hoser

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    Tell me about it lol. I'm pinching pennies for when you get around to building my y-pipe.
     
  19. Sep 29, 2020 at 2:29 PM
    #1039
    TRON

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    I know dropping the IAT is the main point of discussion on this thread. But I would caution spraying meth lower than 5lbs from my experience cause the potential of puddling at the throttle body. That was with a boost controller where it’s either 100% or zero

    Is the snow stage 3 controller better controlled through percentages like the fuel injectors?
     
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  20. Sep 29, 2020 at 2:36 PM
    #1040
    o0opackersfano0o

    o0opackersfano0o Well-Known Member

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    I’m running 2.3 pulley with meth. Loves it. Havnt seen a coolant temp over 176 yet even when it’s hot. I also have like 5 gallons of coolant flowing through the supercharger so it’s hard to heat all that up.
     

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