Mid Travel BS 2.0

how much lift could I crank them up to safely?


iPhone 6

 

From what I have seen in the mx/ atv world, is this style, and I have never seen any issues with bikes as far as the top out bumper breaking, even on some pretty old and beat up stuff. From your other pic it looks as if the top out bumper is free floating and not built into the seal head like in this side. That's why I think it cracked. Not that running straps is a bad idea, it's on my list of eventual mods, but if that other side was free floating on the shaft, that's why it failed. Why it's free floating and a different set up that normal, shock isn't in front of me so I couldn't tell you, other than it seems wrong to me. Never had a truck shock apart myself, other than my 5100's that disintegrated, and hopefully won't be rebuilding mine until sometime next year, but having done well over 100 mx/ atv/ utv shocks in my career as a bike mechanic, it don't look right to me.

Alright, my hw break is over, back to "important" stuff

 

Is there any worry about damaging the steering rack by solid mounting the lowers like that? Now the rack or the frame are the only two places where something can give in the event of a big hit?

AE

 

y'all going to leave me hanging lol

 

Sorry but this is a tricky answer. Ive stated what King told me but I don't think im anywhere close to having an issue with 3/4" thread showing on my driver side and 1/2" thread showing on my passenger side.
Its hopefully going up in the air this weekend so i can do some real measurements and cycling.

 

So King recommends 3/4" thread showing?

 

Yes sir, but there is a lot of argument here and for good reason.

I was talking with @ckeene9 and he measured his by the coil itself.
For the sake of argument take Kings 14" coil and that method, I should technically be at 13.25" if I compress the 3/4" that King suggests. Measuring by threads is difficult because for those that have swapped coils know that its going to take a few cranks to get that coil snug and start seeing height change. So does King take those initial turns into account?

So for me, im going to get it up in the air and remove coils and cycle it to and get this resolved.

*disclaimer*

All opinions expressed in this post are those of the OP and by no means shared by other members.

 

hey guys the King 2.5" RR with Compression Adjusters shouldnt need custom valving right? and do any distributors give a forum discount?

 

also this is where im at with the Front suspension right now;

what i have;

-TC heim joint UCA’s
-TC LCA’s
-TC spindle gussets

What im ordering now;
-King 2.5" RR with Compression Adjusters

still need;
-Extended Brake lines - (preferred brand?)
-Limiting straps - (8 inch?)
-Bumps - (no cash for hydro right now, any recommendations?)

uses;
mostly crawling w/ occasional dessert running

am i missing anything? or do you guys have any suggestions?

 

Cam tab gussets??

 

yeah with the amount of effort/time those take, ive decided to put that project on the back burner for now and prioritize other mods first. unless someone can convince me otherwise...

 

Not really needed until you flatten the OEM cam tabs. Alternatively weld the lowers and use your hemmed uppers for adjustment.

 

Yeah I've toyed with that idea but I like the ability of being able to switch back to stock suspension for resale reasons

 

Even though right now I can't imagine ever parting with my baby

 

LOLZ...

 

That's right lol I would never deprive somebody the joy of building their own truck

 

I would defenetly do the cam tab gussets, they have a way better fit to the cams and hold the alignment way better. I went from aligning my truck every few months to going almost a year with no movement

 

i would say not doing the cam gussets would be silly with all the other upgrades you're doing.

 

Totally agree. If you're replacing the stock LCA's, do the cam tabs while its apart.

 

Compression adjusters and valving is like comparing putting gasoline in your engine or let's say fruit juice...two very different things. Think of it this way - the adjusters do nothing but give you firm - soft within how your shocks are already performing so if you are valved wrong the adjuster does nothing to correct that it will only allow you to make bad valving a little softer or a little firmer.