Mid Travel BS 2.0

Pull them apart and find out! It's really the only way to answer your question. Can't see the threads that might have been jumped in the photos but considering you have them in your garage, you might as well find out. Previous owner (assuming is wasn't you) might not have tightened the collar down correctly....

 

I probably will this weekend. Just debating if it is worth selling them.. Since I could possibly be the jackass that did that

 

You should be able to fix those, you'd have to take them apart to see how bad the threads are.

 

Not a lot of action in here this month.

But here's a question for the rest of you. How many of you guys (4x4 obviously) are running a front diff drop to help cv angles? I'm redoing my skids to meet up with my new front cross member and am thinking about pulling the drop spacers out to get a little more clearance again.

 

U bolt flip is nice if you plan on crawling. Cleans up the bottom of the axle real good.

 

A couple of years ago someone split open their front diff while in a race with a diff drop kit. As far as I've seen since then, most people came to the conclusion that they didn't do anything anyway and wasn't worth the risk involved when placing the differential flush with skid plates. Some skids aren't even compatible with diff drops and those that are compatible I would imagine place it uncomfortably close the the skid, and any impact would likely hit the diff as well. You'll hear arguments for and against, and I personally have never heard a compelling argument for since their main purpose to to prevent CV boots from rubbing, but simply keeping your front end below 3" accomplishes the same and shouldn't be done for other reasons as well.

 

1st gen with lift requires diff drop. 2nd gen with reasonable lift - 3" or less - it's unnecessary and creates an awkward fulcrum point that multiplies damage.

 

Gotta love mid travel currently running Dirtking bushing UCA and king factory replacement coilovers.

 

Diff rotaters are certainly not required on 1st gens.

 

Well the more I thought about it, unless you're running a db lift, the control arms and cvs are cycling the same as stock. Maybe a smidge more droop with ucas and extended shocks. So they only really help for a flatter angle at ride height. So I'll be pulling mine out this week and getting started on my new skids

 

Ya this isn't true.

 

Been my experience to date. Your mileage may vary.

 

Nope, ditch the did drop.

Pics of h new crossmember and skid? I have a similar project in the works.

 

I just chopped it at the bottom of my new bumper and put in a piece of 2x2 1/4wall as the new brace.

I'll be pulling the diff drop and starting on bracing/ mounts for the new skids probably this weekend. And hopefully have the new skid setup done in a week or two since I am pretty limited on shop time at the moment

 

Cool, great minds think alike.

 

I just think to say its required is pretty dumb. It rotates the diff as well, as it only lowers the front 2 mounting points.

My setup pulls a pretty good amount of travel now a days and I've never had an issue
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

A CV drop would actually make the angle at full bump worse:
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr
Untitled by Connor Rhoades, on Flickr

Tires clear at full bump full lock too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bi7t29NoPCo

Here's the joint in action for those interested. More steering angle than stock if my tires didn't rub the frame.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rNA6QICTro


Edit- Also the steering binds at full droop before the CV does.

 

forgot to post these here. I finally set my rear bump stop height with the superbumps and made a bracket for them and ditched the dumbass metal tech brackets that are far too big.









Ride height on the ground

 

So much beautiful in this post...

 

Do you know how much travel your getting?