Mid Travel BS 2.0

Pretty sure his point is that nothing is perfect, and you should wait to cycle everything before welding it in. You'll hate yourself if you have to cut it all out cause it doesn't fit together like a puzzle peice.

 

He's buying TC front bypass hoops and has TC uppers and lowers, the hoop is pre fab' and bolts to the shock tower & the shock tabs are already on the TC hoops ... all you do is burn the back of the hoop to the frame where it lands. Under different circumstances I would agree with the wait and cycle it sanity but this seems safe since there is no way to mount it wrong ?

 

Well there I go assuming TC's shit would be dialed out of the box...oops

 

Not sure why you'd wanna burn in the hoops and have it just sit until the shocks show up much later and risk something being out of place only to cut it all back off. I get the cold, but.......

 

I could be wrong, but I believe the tc hoops are all tacked together when they ship, not fully welded. So he could burn in the hoops to the frame/ coil bucket mounting point, but leave the tabs my burned in. That way when he gets his shocks it's already 90% done. Cycle the shocks once and just weld the tabs in their final location

 

I added bypasses with the TC hoop to my +2 kit 2 months ago. You absolutely should remove your coils and cycle the suspension, I found that the bottom of the bypasses were interfering with the bump stop structure with the suspension drooped out all the way(passed where it would be strapped at). It was unlikely to hit during normal use but you never know, shit happens when you're acting like a fool out in the desert. I ground out the area they were going to be hitting and don't have to worry about it binding. Even if you order the TC hoops and the TC specific shocks (this is what I did) you still might have to adjust something.

I also found this.

Turned out when my tire is rubbing in the wheel well at full stuff I'm already mechanically binding the LCA on the spindle adapter.

Also you'll have to cycle both sides, my hoops didn't line up in the exact same spot on the frame (it is actually off quite a bit, by almost an inch IIRC). So even though they may appear to be exactly the same, it's very unlikely TC cut, bent, and welded the tubes identically on both sides.

 

If you can install a UCA and CO you can handle installing the TC made hoop (as long as you have a welder), the only extra part is removing the coil from the CO and cycling the suspension (realistically this should be done after every suspension change, but almost no one does it with stock geometry and I'll even admit not doing it with the +2, since I was under the impression everything would work right together) as far as tuning there are resources available on the web and race desert and desert rangers have forums that have more information than tacomaworld does.

Also if you haven't done it yet, you will need to lighten the valving in your CO to shift some of the control/work/whatever-you-want-to-call-it to the bypass so the adjustments will actually have an effect.

 

I believe TC's instructions staye to grind away that part of the lower ball joint adapter for clearance. It has definitely been a topic of discussion multiple times.

 

It sure has.

I probably should have made it more clear what the issue is since it looks like the fucked up area is at the steering stop. However.......

The small rubbing with the steering stop is normal. (As it says in the instructions......I've kept an eye on mine and hasn't got any worse since the first rock crawling trails I took it on) What isn't normal is the spindle adapter binding against the broad side of the LCA. (At least I wouldn't think it's normal)

This is what my instructions say to grind.



I believe the grinding on the top of the adapter is to prevent interference specifically with the LCA uniball cup.

Updated photo with patented confusion free photoshopping

 

Ehh........instructions say to check everything for binding after install, so it would have been on me if something broke since I didn't check after initially installing the kit. Might be binding due to a couple of factors that aren't a problem for others, so I might be a snowflake in that case.

 

Sorry don't mean to sound like a di#k but yeah...your non race version has less ground clearance than OE LCA's so tomatoe - to-mah-to

 

I like tomatoes...just sayin

 

I've got bypasses on mine. Totally worth it in my opinion.