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Mid Travel with BS Thread

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by MightyMouse-SCT, Jan 25, 2012.

  1. Jun 17, 2014 at 9:44 AM
    Downsouth Motorsports

    Downsouth Motorsports Downsouth Motorsport Vendor

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    Front King 2.5, Coilovers, Camburg UCA, Rear King 2.0 Shocks, Lots of Tinted Windows, Cherry Third Owner
    Yes sir we are.
    King does seem to weather better than most, but do keep in mind that Icon offers a IVD coating to help protect as well.
     
  2. Jun 17, 2014 at 7:37 PM
    Joneseyyy

    Joneseyyy Well-Known Member

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    Got some new Total Chaos hardware going on to take it to the next level! Bypasses just reconfigured at Icon today to fit properly!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    New Race Series Lower Control Arms
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jun 18, 2014 at 8:24 AM
    ATLien

    ATLien Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, about the AAL... I'd like to end up with an inch or so of rake in the truck's stance after the lift. I tow or carry cargo from time to time and am rather disappointed in the stock leaf pack's ability to hold weight without much sagging. I was thinking a new pack (Dakar, Wheelers, All-Pro, etc) would be better in the long run, especially as i add weight with full skids, more mods, etc. Thoughts?

    PS. Looked at y'all's pricing and may get rear resi's anyways :D
     
  4. Jun 18, 2014 at 8:35 AM
    SDHQ OFFROAD

    SDHQ OFFROAD Cuz Stock Sucks!

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    The only downfall with the Dakar and other packs is that when you have no weight in there, it will be a bit stiff. But if you do plan on adding the weight soon. It would not be bad to deal with. Another thing to consider with those packs also is that they generally provide 2-3" of lift in the rear, and the standard Icon and other shocks are not long enough and will limit travel. We do carry the Ext. travel Icon in 2.0 w/ resi and 2.5" w/resi though that allow for the full travel and flex of those packs.
     
  5. Jun 18, 2014 at 9:29 AM
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    They all use steel bodies. King just doesn't make you pay extra to sell you coated steel. Fox will pretty much rust away immediately and is total junk IMO and so will Icons unless you pay Icon more money for their "special" coating....LMAO.
     
  6. Jun 18, 2014 at 11:48 AM
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco Kick A$$ Member

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    Hey guys I think I have only posted in here once or twice, but I finally got my suspension goodies in and installed so I figured I would post in here.

    I have Icon 2.5 front w/#700 and rear 2.5. Front and rear have Remote Resis and CDC, Timbren Bumps all around, Dakar Leafs, and TC UCAs that are now ugly because my tires rubbed them before I put a .75" spacer on.

    I didn't have the fronts when I was out in Moab last month, but I had the rear and those made a big difference. It was also impressive how the CDC adjuster actually changed the feel. I can't wait to get out and test out the fronts and rears together.

    Nothing wrong with what I had, just had an opportunity to improve.

    I still need to crank up the front a little.

    Fronts
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Rears

    [​IMG]

    One of my old rears was shot.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  7. Jun 18, 2014 at 12:17 PM
    YotaDan

    YotaDan Dan Vendor

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    ^^ Looks like a pretty sweet setup!
     
  8. Jun 18, 2014 at 12:33 PM
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    Two tips I have for you on those TC race lowers.

    You must run spacers as soon as you mount them or you will eat your tire sidewall when turning.

    You have to really grind down the lower spindle ends as described in the directions. You are still going to make contact at full lock but it will be minimized greatly after you round it out neatly. It's a balance though. Don't grind off too much and have that crack and fail.
     
  9. Jun 18, 2014 at 12:47 PM
    Joneseyyy

    Joneseyyy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the advice - always great to have someone whose already done the install chime in. Thankfully I'm already running spidertrax 1.25" spacers. On the spindles I'm already gusseted so I'm hoping I will be OK post-grinding.
     
  10. Jun 18, 2014 at 1:33 PM
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco Kick A$$ Member

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    Really? I didn't know that had to be done for them to fit. That kind of seems like a design flaw. Too bad the don't just make a spindle that clears.
     
  11. Jun 18, 2014 at 2:02 PM
    Joneseyyy

    Joneseyyy Well-Known Member

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    I'm thinking that in addition to the spindle grinding you could add more material to the steering stop so the contact is not between the uni-ball housing and the inside of the spindle.
     
  12. Jun 18, 2014 at 2:12 PM
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco Kick A$$ Member

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    You know what I actually could use some help with is how many times to spin the shocks around to gain an roughly 1 inch? I have never adjusted them on the icons before.

    I assume I just loosen the set screw and use the spanner wrench to spin it? I will obviously use a Pipe or something to add some leverage to the handle.
     
  13. Jun 18, 2014 at 2:46 PM
    BradyT88

    BradyT88 Well-Known Member

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    if you want to make it easier on you and your stuff then go rent some spring compressors from autozone. Pull the shock put the spring compressor on the spring and crank it down a little. Should he pretty simple. Then measure the threads showing and crank the collar until an extra 1/2" of threads are showing and lossen the spring compressor. There is an almost 2:1 ratio for wheel to shock travel. If you are ok with being close to 1" more lift stick with a 1/2" of extra threads showing. If you would prefer more rather than less than an inch then expose a couple more threads or so to be safe.

    You can always go the route of spinning the collars without the compressor but it's a real bitch if not impossible sometimes. Yours might still be new enough that you can move them with a good shot of WD-40.
     
  14. Jun 18, 2014 at 2:57 PM
    Alfuh

    Alfuh It's pronounced alpha

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    Icon Extended Travel Coilovers, Total Chaos UCAs, All Pro 3" Standard Leaf Springs, Fox 2.0 Rear Shocks, Mickey Thompson Classic III Black Rims w/removed center caps, 265/75/R16 Nitto Terra Grapplers, 2" Wheel Spacers, Debadged Tailgate, Custom tailgate stripe, CB Install, BHLM, Flowmaster 40 Series Muffler, K&N CAI, TRD OR Floor Mats, TRD All Terrain Decals, Retro "TOYOTA" Tailgate Decal, Recessed Satoshi Grille Mod w/color-matched silver Housing, Sway Bar Delete, Running Board Delete, Pinstripping Delete, Front Skid Plate Repaint, Bedlined Flares/Rear Bumper, Plastiderpd lower valance, color-matched plastidip Eyelids, PastiDerpd Grille, flag mount in bed, Rugged Cover Bed Cover (off atm)
    I would reccomend using the spring compressor, after using mine and them getting dirty and muddy, the collars didnt want to spin very easily, even with WD-40 Ive screwed my collars up on my COs. So now I still need to readjust the driver coilover to level off, but I need to take the coilover off and use a compressor since the driver side doesnt even want to budge

    I think I should get some new collars sometime to replace the ones that Ive screwed up
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2014
  15. Jun 18, 2014 at 2:58 PM
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    What I meant to say was about the steering stops not the spindle. These have to be grinded a lot as per the instructions. Even after I grinded them I still contacted my lower control arm.
     
  16. Jun 18, 2014 at 3:05 PM
    XXXX

    XXXX Well-Known Member

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    You just changed my mind for sure. Old TC LCA's when my OE's fail again.
     
  17. Jun 18, 2014 at 3:39 PM
    Joneseyyy

    Joneseyyy Well-Known Member

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    Guys just pulled the instructions out of the box. Trimming the steering stop does not look like a big deal, especially for anyone running this type of setup that already requires grinding and welding (assuming you gusset and are running a secondary shock hoop). And that it will still contact at full lock? Well yeah, that's what a steering stop does;)[​IMG]
     
  18. Jun 18, 2014 at 6:31 PM
    06HAOLE

    06HAOLE Well-Known Member

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    It's not a big deal but it surprised to me. It's 5 minutes with a cutoff wheel and your done. Maybe another 10 minutes with a grinder to round it all off. But that's not the point.

    I ran a TC 3.5" long travel kit on my 2006 Tacoma and never had any of these issues. Having gouges in some brand new LCAs from the steering stops was a little disheartening.
     
  19. Jun 18, 2014 at 6:49 PM
    Joneseyyy

    Joneseyyy Well-Known Member

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    I hear ya. Fair point.
     
  20. Jun 18, 2014 at 7:51 PM
    Basikbiker

    Basikbiker Meat Wookie

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    Made a bumper, cut wires, king 12" in the back, kings up front, camburg uca, gusseted spindles, DT pipe, ATO arm skid ATO transfer case skid, softtop, no sway bar, urd sleeve kit , urd shift kit, gun holster, dog
    Weee after work flex
    [​IMG]
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